ystrdyisgone

Okay, so after doing a basic tune, and warming up the engine fully, how do I go about ensuring that the choke is in the correct position? Sorry for all the questions.. I'm doing research, but not quite finding the answers I'm looking for. Also, one other thing to note. I've been reading about this "High idle" mode, and also saw it in action in rugby_subies' recent video. Mine has never done this.. I've always had to turn the key while pumping/feathering the gas pedal to get it going.

Alright I did some reading, from THE weber thread in Offroad, and from the Manual I downloaded from Loyale 2.7 Turbo a while ago(Thanks by the way:headbang:) I get the basics of doing the quick tune. Which I will be doing tomorrow morning. I have an electric choke on mine. My understanding of the choke adjustment is that its just turning it one direction or the other? Opening or closing the "choke plate?" as needed to compensate for idle?

My motor mounts may very well be iffy. There is definitely a lot of bucking when sharply pressing the gas pedal, or letting go of it suddenly. This primarily happens in 2wd. I was thinking motor or tranny mounts? I replaced the CVs only 1000 miles ago, so I sure hope they're still good. Will check the boots though. There was some wobble in my steering wheel earlier this week at higher speeds, cranked the axle nuts down and that went away. Will be doing as Josh said, and taking the wheel and rotor off tomorrow. Was planning on driving 400 miles round trip to sell an engine to another member on Sunday. Might be smart to postpone?

Alright, digging into some Weber threads now. One last question, just so I can start tuning with everything else in place already, what jets would be recommended for my altitude? 4500, sometimes driving to 8000 to go snowboarding.

I'm not sure what the jets are at actually. The previous owner did all the installation and tuning on it. I looked back to his thread about it, and the last I saw was that it wasn't running right, he threw a bigger jet on and then it worked. Someone said "No jetting up is not the answer!'' And he never responded. So they are probably wrong. I'll check tomorrow. It's too cold to go out there right now. When I first got the car, that was one of the first things I did. Put a can of seafoam in through the brake booster vacuum line. One thing I'm concerned about is the timing advance the PO set up to make it run, could that be causing rapid carbon buildup in the engine, such as on the valves, etc? I know very little about this stuff, but have read enough on the board to guess that something, if not many things, are wrong with the way it is set up.

Ah, good to know. I know very little about these carbs, or rather carbs in general. It appears I have to do some research. So my problem is air to fuel mix ratio and possibly jet sizes? Because my butterfly is definitely open a bit to keep that idle speed. But if it isn't open then it will not idle cold..

Presidente, that is what I have heard. This is why I'm trying to determine if it is indeed the bearing. The problem is, other people can't seem to hear what I'm hearing. I've had two people drive it, one a mechanic, and said it was fine. But when I drive it, I can hear SOMETHING going on in the front end. How does one check radius rod bushings? Do I have to unbolt the rod from the control arm and check for slop? Or can I just visually inspect them?

It's possible that it has been doing this since I have owned it(4 months) and just noticed it today. But I'm usually pretty aware of such things. I'd like to say it started shortly after I replaced both CV axles. I know that the PO replaced the passenger side wheel bearing. This is why I'm leaning towards that other bearing being a problem. I guess it could be torque steer, but I really don't think so. I put it in 4wd as well to see if anything changed, and it was still the same result. As you said, with such a low power engine, I can't imagine the engine power, or lack thereof, would be the sole cause of this problem.

So I took my soob to the local "Subarus only" shop today. After the guy took her for a spin, he highly suggested a tune-up. New plugs, cap, rotor, probably plug wires too. He guessed that the plugs were shot because of the dieseling that occurs at shutoff. Is this a correct assumption or does this have to do more with my weber carb? A bit more info: She won't idle when she's cold. I have her "tuned" to idle at 1000RPM when she's warm. But have been noticing a skip or "bog down" every few seconds in the needle even when she's warm. Doesn't drop below 950 RPM but still noticeable. Also my gas mileage around town is about 14 right now.. Thanks ahead of time for any helpful responses!

Trying to diagnose the most recent front end problem with my wagon.. I just had my tires balanced, noticed today on hard acceleration she pulls to the left. I believe I am starting to hear a growl from the front end at higher speeds as well. Pairing these to symptoms I want to say it's a bad front left wheel bearing? I would appreciate any input, thanks folks.

Awesome, thinking the same thing as Haight. I'm currently comparing this with an sjr 4" lift. There's about twice as many pieces, and my brain can't quite place all of them. Please help my noobishness..

Welcome! NOT trying or NOW* trying to learn how to lift the loyale? If NOW, Cheapest, easiest way, without building it yourself: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128310 Any higher than 2" I would check out sjrlift.com or sosfab.com If NOT, then disregard all of the above. Looking forward to pics of the rides. imgur.com is an easy place to upload them, then copy and paste to the message board.

It's been a while, bills became a priority for the last couple months, finally starting to have some cash to put into the ol suby. She's been running fine, not great though. With the colder weather I am getting some pretty significant backfiring if I put the pedal down too hard before she's warmed up. After much discussion about the planned engine swap, I have been convinced not to put the ea81 into it. I'm going to save up and do the ej22 swap. The current engine isn't as bad as I thought it was, and I would end up wanting an ej22 eventually anyway. Updates to come. Also, this means I will have a freshly resealed 80k mile ea81 for sale in the near future

Dirty Wagon Industries? DWI for short, might be kinda catchy.. may mislead customers to think you only make things for wagons though.. Soobtubes/Soobtoobs? STS for short? Considering the round nature of your products.. I'll let you know if any more pop into the ol noggin.

I'm finally putting the heads back on today. A video I saw of the process involves putting the rocker assembly on simultaneously, thus requiring a special cylinder head socket for the center nut. Is there a different way of doing this so I don't need to drop $35 on a tool I will only use once or twice?

Thanks man! Yeah they're going on the subie, they're the same pattern as the yotas. My only concern is backspacing with just a 2" lift. But I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I just kinda went for it with the oil pan, I put a coating of Ultra Copper on both sides of the gasket and on the inside edge, then smacked her on there.

Haven't made much progress lately. I will probably get the EA81 back together sometime this week. Then I have to figure out how/where I'm going to do this swap.. Picked up 4 of these puppies the other day though: They're off of a 76 wagoneer. 40 for the set:D

Find? Damn, I was thinking about getting some, then I saw the 400 dollar price tag. 6-lug redrill here we come..

Pardon the interruption, and my ignorance. Are those ^^^ the AA(SOS) rally wheels?

I've been curious about this for my wagon as well. Did it ever get past the idea stage?

haha definitely some dropped nerds.. So I replaced the PS CV today and.................... No more clunking! Made my day. Now there's just a little shudder in the steering that I'll have to diagnose in the near future. I'll wait until it's a little worse so I can pinpoint it better. Pretty soon I'll have a completely new front end! Went ahead and put the oil pan back on the ea81 today, replacing the water pump and seal tomorrow. Still can't get the oil pump off for the life of me. I might just leave it until after I swap the engine in. There is definitely oil residue on the block around it, but it's hard to tell if it's from the front main seal or the oil pump seal.

Any ideas what could have caused this??

Got the oil pan all shiny, as well as the bottom of the engine. There's a couple questions I have though. Before I reseal the oil pan on, are there any seals behind the bellhousing that I should do first? I can access the rear main seal just by taking off the clutch and flywheel right? Also, when I do seal the oil pan, I have some Permatex Ultra copper I was going to put a light coating of onto the gasket. Yes, No? And yes, I am building the engine in the back of my car..

Until you mentioned it, I forgot that Goo Gone existed. Thank you sir Wire wheel sounds fun, haha. We'll try the goo gone first.

I jacked up the other side of the car and checked out the passenger CV, definitely shot, looks pretty new too, must have been a reman.. Finished sanding the heads tonight, no more fire rings! Noticed a little chunk missing in one spot though. Will this be a problem? Had some fun removing the old gasket on my oil pan tonight.. Anybody have any tips for getting the rest of the residue off?