ystrdyisgone

Body: 1987 GL-10 wagon (carbed) Engine: 1990 EJ22 Transmission: Dual range 3.9 Suspension: 2" Boss lift Wheels: 15" Jeep Wagoneer Slotted Mags Tires: 27" Cheap winter studded tires(for now) Exhaust: haven't gotten it done yet, but planning on 2" or 2.25" from the cat back, into a high flow turbo muffler. may get some headers from infernofab at some point but damn$$$...

That's what I would do. I just finished up putting a 2.2l from a legacy into my wagon, and it's sweet, but definitely a lot of work. $$ too.. These things are surprisingly fun with a weber, plus you can just chop the muffler, add a straight pipe and pretend you're going fast. ha

The short answer concerning you wanting it to be a sleeper is that it's not going to happen with an ea82. As BirdMobile said, don't turbo it. If you did, I don't think you could go above 5psi, and at that pressure, well... You may want to look into an EJ swap if you really are after much more power. Or, just enjoy the car for what it is, a reliable little wagon that will get you anywhere you need to go(once you get rid of the hitachi carb)

Thanks man, it's been running great. I can hold speed on hills now. Oh and I can actually pass people too! The only thing I've noticed is that sometimes on longer drives, my idle stays at 1500-2000 rpms at stop lights, it won't fall back to its standard 1000 rpms. I'm going to either polish those wheels up or just cover them with some black plastidip. Another problem that persists is the rising of the front end on acceleration. I thought that would go away after I lowered my subframe, but it has not. Read somewhere on here that an alignment helps with that, putting the wheels a bit toe out?

Well here she is:

I've used it in many of my vehicles and have only seen good results. Better throttle response is generally the biggest improvement. I don't pay so much attention to fuel economy so I can't say much about that. I'm no expert, but personally I have not noticed any negative results. The smoke show at the end is always fun too! Note: I think I am remembering correctly that the brake booster line is off to the DS of the intake, which would only clean the DS of the intake and the heads. So you'll want to find a vac line right under the throttle body, so it hits both sides.

Good call SmashedGlass, it was a bit more time consuming, but I went with the heat shrink. I've got a couple more hours left of buttoning everything back up, and it will be a complete, running car again! She sure does move more nicely now. It's not crazy fast but it's good enough for me. I am glad I put some bigger wheels on at the same time as the swap though, those little 13s would be too tempting :burnout: I'll get a picture of the finished product tomorrow. Well almost finished, gotta get my u-joints replaced in my driveline, and exhaust done from the stock headers back.

I took a 2000 mile road trip last summer with my ol EA82. It had 196K on it at the time. I would say a good rule of thumb would be check the oil at every fill up. Better safe than sorry. My old engine had a noticeable oil leak, so I ended up having to put three quarts in over the whole trip. I did make sure to do my timing belts (pulleys, and idlers as well) and v-belts. I also kept the old belts for backup on the trip. Not too sure about the coolant issue, maybe look into the water pump and see if it's weeping? I'd say go for it, but as l75eya said, only you know your car. I was pretty confident in my car, as well as my toolbox in the trunk, so I went for it. If you wanna save on gas. Drive at 55. On a trip like that though 55 versus 75 sure adds on some time..

Wait, wait, "colleges now require you to pay for a full meal plan"? Firstoff, campus food is crap. Second, now they're making you eat it? Technically no, but if you're paying for it, you're probably gonna eat it. Why do they want you to eat their food so badly that it's almost required? All clues tell me to not eat that food. Some may say paranoid, but it's simple logic really.

5. Mystery pieces Anybody know where these go and if they are important?? The piece on the left looks like the rubber piece that goes into the O2 sensor plug to make it watertight. The middle piece should be the piece that goes on the backside of the alternator bolt. The right piece is simply a wire holder, not sure where it might go though

I lowered mine only a half inch, but my other spacers were only an inch, so you may have to go three quarters.

Thanks Scooner, will do. Yeah I've got that yellow wire hooked to switched power, along with the relays. Seems to be charging just fine. Good point on the old EA wire though. I'll look into replacing that sometime, kinda just wanna be done with the whole thing for the time being.

Well folks, it only took me 7 weeks, but the new engine is running! Here's a short clip of the proof: What's left is making permanent connections on the wires (can't decide between butt connectors and shrink wrap, or solder and tape), securing the radiator in place, wiring up the fan, order another fan, and replacing the knock sensor. Then that's it for the swap! Oh yeah... exhaust too. Got my 6 lug fronts coming tomorrow, replacing the tie rod end while I'm down there, then hopefully puttin the whole thing back together.

Well, I just put it all together according to Gloyale's list on the prev page. Works just fine. Thanks man! Code 24 went away, maybe the connector wasn't plugged in enough. Code 22 remains, but the knock sensor is majorly cracked, so hopefully it's just an R &R

So I'm looking at wiring in the ALT today, I've got two fat white wires, do these tie in together and connect to the EA fat white? Also, I noticed that on the prints, the ignition diode connects to the alt wiring, currently my diode has three wires coming out of it, two light green off the same pin, one running to the ECU, and the other(yellow) going to 12V constant.(wrong? Should it be switched) But I guess the question is, does this yellow need to tie into the ALT wiring or no?

I'm getting 12V at the yellow/red wire. hmm..

Thanks for the scans Gloyale! I'll go test that wire now. And I've got a knock sensor on the way thanks to AdventureSubaru. I read that some people remove their sensors, and clean/sand down the mating surface, and it fixes the issue, so I'll try that first.

Looks like I've got some codes.. My ecu blinks at startup Two long and two short And Two long and four short Would this be 22 and 24? Code 22 - Knock sensor - Abnormal Voltage from Knock sensor - Fail safe defaults to preset fuel map and retard the ignition timing to prevent preignition. Code 24 - Idle Control Senenoid - Air control Valve inoperative (feedback circuit detects fault) - Fail safe is to prevent over-rev by using engine speed and throttle position to cut the fuel deivery - might run rough.

I think they were reversed, switched them, and no leaks, will need to get an adapter to step the line down in size on the return line though.

One more question. (of course) I've got some fuel leaking out of my return line. Either it wasn't tight enough, or I hooked it up to the wrong hardline. Here's how I had it set up: Inside, Fatter hardline, hooked up to this on the intake: And this line on the intake: Hooked up to the outside, skinnier hardline:

It's ALIVE!!!!!! Thanks much to Subruise on prwa101s thread. I grounded the fuel pump at the body, but it wasn't a good enough ground. Put it on a better one and she fires right up!!! Thanks for all the assistance dudes! It was good and worth my time to check all those other things anyway. Now we just hope nothing else comes up.

It's strung in place, but it's not wrapped or anything. At the igniter, there is a bit of wire showing through on the yellow/blue, right near the plug. Can't be easily replaced.. I didn't mount it yet, it's just sitting loose. I think my problem is the fuel pump though. There was a bit of pressure in the fuel system when I unhooked the fuel line, but I put the hose in a bottle today to see if anything comes out, and it doesn't. I hooked up the fuel pump to a battery, and it pumps just fine. I don't know where the issue is. I've got it grounded right at the pump on the body of the car, I took the power wire and strung it inside the car up to the black/red wire on the FPR. Got power coming into the FPR, got the light green/black wire hooked to the ecu.. idk what's up with it.

Levi, checked out the iac wires, they are hooked up to pins 1 and 2 on the 26 pin ecu connector. One thing that just occurred to me, when I had the engine hanging for a few days, it did rain, I had paper towels covering the intake holes, but maybe some moisture got in. Might that cause this sort of issue? I'm going to remove the plugs and see what I can see there. But still, it runs with starting fluid, so wtf..

Thanks Bruce, fixed that.

Here's a video of what the engine does on cranking. A hint of firing right at first crank, but then nothing. If I give it any gas, it won't fire at all when cranking. What I don't get is that it runs with starting fluid. So does that mean TPS, or IAC problem? Just checked the wires at the TPS and IAC. With the ignition turned on, I get power on the middle wire or the IAC (yellow/red) nothing from the other two. That seems right though. And for the TPS, I get power on the brown wire, and the red wire, nothing on the black or white. This also seems right. Checked out the Crank Position Sensor, got no reading from any of the three wires. That makes sense though cause it's not running, right? Same thing for the other sensors(cam, and knock)