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Good to know, I thought the wire that was fastened with the 10mm nut was ground. Concerning the grounds, I left the splices intact off the ecu pin 25(26 pin connector) So I had a leftover one and hooked up the ign relay to that. As far as I know all the other wires are hooked up just like they are supposed to be, like I said I followed the schematics to a T. Only difference is that I put a ground strap from the intake ground, to the chassis, and another from that same chassis point to the negative terminal on battery. ??? I checked the ignitor and the coil for power yesterday, and they both were getting power. I didn't check the IAC. Will do that next. Intake and MAF are all hooked up. The engine won't even run for a moment. It fires maybe a couple cylinders at first key turn, and then just cranks. Gas pedal has no effect.

Yeah I hooked up the start signal wire to the ea wire that clips onto the back of the starter. So essentially by hooking those thin yellows directly to the switched 12V I bypassed the ECU control? Also, I currently have the ground from the ea alt hooked to the ej alt, but the rest of the ej alt wires are loose. Do these need to be hooked up for it to run? I'll check to see if I've got a signal at the ecu for those sensors. It's definitely getting fuel, as the exhaust reeks of it. It's got spark, cause starting fluid fires it. I followed the schematic wiring to a T concerning grounds. But I read somewhere the ignition relay should be a separate ground? Ps thanks for bearing with me Gloyale, you rock man.

So I took the thin yellow coming out of the FPR, and also the thin yellow on the ECU that it was connected to, and gave them both switched power, I get voltage going to the pump when the key turns now. But it only stays on for a second, then cuts power. The engine really sounds like it wants to start, but it won't catch and stay running. ??

Okay I found two problems, first, my yellow wire coming out of the diode was not attached to anything, so I hooked it up to switched 12V. Now I hear clicking from the main relay when I turn the key to on. YES! I also grounded the fuel pump to the body right at the fuel pump, as suggested in another thread. But I think the issue is this, I have 12V reading at the fat yellow of the fuel pump relay, but the others, there is nothing. So, no power coming out of the relay going to the fuel pump..

Oh and I also have the black/red wire from the fuel pump spliced directly to a new wire that I strung up from the fuel pump, connected to the red//green wire, left the other (black i think) intact.

So here's some more detail. I've got all my engine harness grounds hooked up to the ECU as they are supposed to be. My ignition relay ground goes to the correct ECU pin. I'm using the original EA power supply cords, going to the starter, and the ground from the battery goes to the starter lug. The engine ground is hooked up as it is supposed to be on the DS of the intake manifold. I also ran a ground from the chassis to a bolt on the engine(where the A/C bracket used to be) I also ran a ground from that same chassis spot to the negative terminal on the battery. (not sure if this is necessary) There is a ground running from the steering column to one of the screws on the side of the ecu as well(also not sure if this is necessary) My power comes in from the fat white and the fat black wires under the steering column that go to the ignition(key). I have a 20A inline fuse on the white(constant?) and a 15A on the black(switched?) Connected to the white I have, my backup power wire from the ECU, as well as the fat yellow that combines the fat yellow from the fuel pump relay, and the two fat yellows from the ignition relay. I also hooked up the fat yellow which comes from the engine bay to this wire.(power to injectors?) I combined the fat yellow/reds that come off the ignitor and the 02 sensor with the three fat yellow/reds that come off the engine plug, they run to the fat yellow/red coming off the ign relay. The other fat yellow/red from the ign relay goes to it's designated spot on the ECU. So yeah, that's my wiring mess, how bad is it?

So the moment of truth came and went last night. I tried to start it and it wouldn't fire. Tried starting fluid and got a couple pops, but wouldn't stay running. I'm thinking it has something to do with the way I hooked the power in. Also, don't hear the fuel pump running at all. Hmm...

I'll look more closely today.

Like, the huge main battery cable? Just want to make sure before I hack into that thing. I appreciate the thought man, maybe if I'm short on shielded wire you could send me some?

No, it's got a needle for the readout. Back to the question about the fat blue with red trace wire, it goes to the starter switch wire? Like, the fat one that runs to the starter from the battery? The only wires I see going to the starter, are that one, the ground that also goes to the battery, and the one you referred to earlier scooner, the one that clips on the back of the starter.

Is it this fella? Yeah I suppose it does look easy, one wire to power, one to ecu, and one to fans? Do yours come on simultaneously? I may wire one to the relay, then one to a switch. Did you ever get yours running right bratman?

Got it off autoanything.com, it's a 10". I was going to wire it the same way, just on a rocker switch. Don't wanna mess with a fan relay and all that fun stuff..

Right on, hopefully someone can chime in concerning those wires. As far as TPS goes, I'm all hooked up there, got all 4 wires where they need to be, just not sure about those extras. Seems to me though for an auto trans, there may need to be some TPS info sent to the AT control unit. Just wish that could be confirmed. I've got that wire isolated (white/green), but the writeup on the VW site said the green/white is oil pressure, will check my schematics. I do have an electrical meter, can't say I've ever used one too much.. I vaguely understand how it operates though.

Oh sweet, I know exactly where that wire is. Any way you can check out your car and see if you've got that same connector feeding off your TPS? And if so, where the hell does it go?!

Okay here's the deal with that stray connector. It takes my signal from the TPS from the white and black wires(shielded), and taps into them to feed into that plug. The plug also has the brown wire feeding in from TPS, and then the plug outputs shielded Black and White, and YLW/blk. And I have no idea where it was supposed to go, only thing that I can think of is the A/T Control Unit. Here's some more pics. And yes Gloyale, I am beginning to see the nightmare I have made for myself... But with the help of my fellow USMBers I have hope that I will make it through! Edit: Oh yeah, pics:

Still not running, maybe today? I sure hope so, but I'm going to be realistic and give myself about a week. Got a goodie in the mail today! Not sure if I'll need two, but if so, it will be easy enough to add another.

Scooner, what is the "stock coil" you are referring to concerning the tach wire? Gloyale, how would I go about having a wire grounded when I'm in neutral, and open when in gear? Both the ECUs I have are from M/Ts. Also any ideas about that first picture? With the YLW/blk wire and the shielded wire coming off of it?

Sweet, well I've got most of the wires intact, and the points that they split/come together. So it's just a matter of getting them spliced back together. Still reading up on the alt, I've read people just use the existing EA wiring, may just do that. I've got the harness mostly assembled. I'm left with a few stray wires though. This plug comes off of one of the grey engine plugs. From the wiring diagram it seems this goes to the A/T control unit? Just has a shielded wire so I wanted to make sure before I cut it. These four wires are left loose from the ECU, there are others, but I believe these are the only ones left that I actually need. Left is TACH, I'm guessing I tap into the tach wire coming from my inst cluster for that one. LG/Yellow is neutral switch, leave that open or ground it? Blue/Red is ignition switch, probably dumb of me, but I don't know exactly where that goes, tap into my ignition somewhere? And the other wire is a mystery, yellow/green, from what I've seen in the diagrams it's not supposed to be there, but I also have a mystery wire of the same color coming out of one of the engine plugs: Coincidence?

More progress has taken place on this thing, filled the trans mounts with polyurethane as well. Got the heater hoses and fuel lines hooked up. Started to figure out the airbox setup. Put a brace on the throttle cable to help straighten that bend. I deleted the hill holder cable, and snagged the brace from that, should do for now: Installed the SPFI fuel pump and new lines. And other stuff.. Still just fighting my way through the electrical stuff. Gonna try to get it running tomorrow.

Well that's somewhat encouraging, I think? Ha This split to each item, is this something that already existed in the intact harness or does it have to be done in that case as well? I'm just trying to understand the difference between what my chop job entails vs just using a thinned harness. I've got the ignitor, MAF, and the O2 along with crank, cam, and knock sensors, those are the wires towards the right of picture number one. I've got the ECU pinouts, and I just found this: http://www.scribd.com/doc/219738593/91-Legacy-Electrical-Schematics. Doesn't have the grey connectors listed but I'm thinkin I can decipher my way through this mess with that as a guide.

Thanks for the response Gloyale, I'm aware of the nightmare at hand. That's why I came to you guys! I definitely appreciate your honesty, and I am open to getting a new harness. But I don't have any PNPs near me, and it's very rare to find a subaru older than 98 at my local junkyard. I'm discussing getting a new one through PM with another member currently. But can I really not make this one work!? I do have tons of extra wiring, I was planning on matching the colors as closely as possible. I think I have enough to get them all the same. Here are some pics to make it more clear where the "harness" is at: My plan was to keep the shielded wires as they appear to be long enough. If I splice them properly and apply heat shrink will it still retain it's shielding qualities? Concerning getting the switched power to the engine bay, I couldn't just run a large wire from where I tapped in under the ignition, all the way to the engine bay? Or, use the wires under the steering column for the ecu and relays, and tap in somewhere in the engine bay for switched power for those components? As you can tell I only have an elementary knowledge of electrical wiring, but it's seems I have a chance here? Maybe?

I have all the wires from the two larger grey connectors labeled, but not the smallest. Are those all grounds? Can I just tie them into one ground? Or do some have to go to the ECU?

Well I found this link, which is very helpful. http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=136053 So nevermind for now! Still a bit confused on the FP relay situation..

Hello folks, I figured I would start a question thread rather than just posting a new one every time something comes up. I've got everything mechanically ready to go now I'm onto the fun part, electrical. So far I've tapped into the power wires running to the ignition, I've got inline fuses for both switched and constant power. I've also fully disassembled my harness. To be more specific: I've got my ecu with a foot and a half of each wire coming off of it. I got rid of my SMJ, and am planning on running new wire to the engine bay. In the engine bay I've got as much wire as possible coming off the MAF, Ignitor, Knock/Cam/Crank/02 sensor plugs. I also left the engine harness(under the intake) intact. So here are my main questions, does anyone have a list of pinouts for the three grey connectors in the engine bay? I know I could take the intake off and disassemble that harness to pinpoint each wire, but I already installed new intake manifold gaskets, and hooked everything back up to the manifold. I've been searching the web and the legacy manual that I downloaded but haven't had any luck. My other question is related to the fuel pump relay. I see that many people just splice the EJ one alongside the existing EA one. Can it not just replace the existing relay? Thanks ahead of time for any responses!

So long story short, EGR?