Frank B

Use those part numbers to cross reference other parts manufacturers to get more part numbers for the part, then search ebay, Rock Auto, even Amazon.com for all the available part numbers to find a deal.

Well, check the repair manual or search here to find the fuel pressure needed. Yours should be SPFI, so around 40-50 psi? I can't remember. Then just find a universal electric fuel pump to put in it's place that puts out the same. Like this one for Fords, in the 80's and early 90's ford used these for both in tank and inline(on the frame). They put out more volume and pressure than the stock Subaru pumps, so you may have to install an extra fuel pressure regulator if the stock one can't handle it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-MERCURY-CAPRI-MARQUIS-COUGAR-5-0-V8-FUEL-PUMP-NIB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a1Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem280297084050QQitemZ280297084050QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I put one of these on a GL-10 turbo, and it worked out great. You just have to make sure you get on with the brass hose barbs on each end, and not on that has the filter sock on it(in tank installation). Here's the old post with part numbers. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40400

Subarus R Us in Swanannoa(spelling?) just east of Ashville. Nice all subaru shop(duh) that may be of some help with parts.

Try it with the engine running, but the clutch pedal depressed. It wouldn't hurt to change the gear oil in the tranny anyway, use a quart of Rislone in it.

That's exactly how they got so huge!

I don't think I'll put my life, and my family's lifes, in the hands of a company that doesn't have a long history of making wheels. Seeing the wheels on the same page as door handles and saw blades doesn't instill a lot of trust. I think you'd be better off re-drilling the hubs for 6-140mm or finding pugs.

I like the idea of interupting the ignition, not the fuel pump. If you have a carbed car and only kill the fuel pump, the car may run long enough for the thief to get it on the street, and I doubt they'll set the brake before they run off. So your car sits in the street rolling away. Either ground the coil, or simply tap into the wire coming from the ignition switch that supplies voltage to the ignition , not the starter, and run it to your hidden switch. That way it will still crank and maybe alert you of someone in your car! Maybe you could wire it up so if the igntion is turned without your hidden switch turned on, the horn blows and the electric door locks engage! You could go to the junkyard and find a switch for optional equipment that was not on your car, that way the switch is in plain sight but labeled rear defrost, or heated seat, or whatever. You could find an electric solonoid operated hydraulic valve and plumb it into the brake lines, so if your switch is not turned on, the car won't even roll. Good one for thiefs with tow trucks, or repo men!

I agree with the tire sizes being an issue, also, it may just be uneven wear between the tires too. The front tires will wear down faster than the rear. I assume that this is a manual tranny car since you say "shift" out of 4wd. So try changing the tranny gear oil and using a quart of Rislone in it. It will clean it up a bit and get into the syncros and bearings to help it shift smoother. It's an old trick that's been on the board since the early days. It will work in any tranny that uses gear oil or motor oil, not an automatic.

That's a new york car for ya'....and PA too. Road salt in the winter made much worse by never washing the undercarriage.

I think everyone here will agree that the best head gaskets are the Felpro perma-torque gaskets, and for intake, OEM Subaru. Great idea on the marble slap, if it isn't flat, lay a large piece of emory cloth on the marble and rotate the manifold(figure 8) to sand it down flat. I've done that on mower and motorcycle heads with good results, it's just hard to tell how much you took off! I hate to suggest it, but it may be a quality issue with those gaskets. But if you didn't replace the intake manifold gaskts when you put it back together, start there. If the ones you have are the paper type, like a thermostat gasket, then use Indian Head shellac, it's at the parts store near the silicone gasket maker stuff. It holds up to gas, silicone will not.

I found this on ebay before I found your post, and I said the same thing!!! My first two suabrus were 3 door coupes, my first the mica red like this one, and that spoiler is an insult!

Doubt it's a cracked block if it's coming out of the exhasut port. Were the new or rebuilt heads cracked and repaired? I don't think there's an ea82 head out there that isn't. But most aren't cracked deep enough to be a problem. They may have not been repaiered correctly. But I don't think that's the problem. It's most likely the head gasket, intake gaskets, or carb base gasket. Those are the only gaskets that would result in coolant in the cylinder or ports. Did you torque the heads correctly? Did you use all new gaskets and super clean the mating surfaces? What brand of head gaskets did you use? I'm not trying to second guess you or say you don't know what you're doing, just going over the possible problems, and remembering the things I've done wrong ..... I'd say start at the top, the carb base gasket, then to the intake manifold gaskets, then remove the heads and do it all again.

Do you have a repair manual? Turn the engine by hand to line up the timing marks at the TDC mark, confirm that the number one cylinder is at TDC. Put the disty in with the rotor pointing at the number one cylinder, try to start. If it doesn't, you may have to pull the disty out and rotate 180 degrees and put it back in. This will get you close.

In my exprience with the 7 subaru's I've had, there are two causes for the ticking. One is gunk built up in the lifters from the oil not being changed on a regular basis(previous owners), and two, the oil pump seal. The seal is an O-ring and the rubber gets hard with age. It will not leak oil, but can still suck air in and fills the lifters with tiny bubbles. Get some Rislone at the parts store and try that with the next few oil changes. Get some Sea Foam there two and put that in the oil now. If that doesn't clean it up, it may be time to change the seal and remove the lifters and clean them out. For the heater core, remove both hoses going into the firewall leading to it, and clamp a garden hose onto the pipe, turn on the water slow at first then turn it up, switch pipes, re-connect and see how it works. They get clogged up.

I'd say practice with fiberglass, just to get the shaping of the fabric down. And remember to criss-cross the "grain" in the fabric for strength.

My vote is on the wheel bearing. If that nut is loose there's enough slop there to create a bad sealing surface and allow dirt and water into the bearings.

Check that the choke isn't closed a little. Is the engine getting up to temp? If the thermostat is stuck open and the engine never reaches operating temp, the mixture could be too rich. You don't have a gas leak do you? I'd say pull the plugs to see if they are black, brown or white. Brown is better. Oh and is this place that you filled up a regular stop for you? Could have gotten a bad mix. These days with all the ethonal blends, just a little water in the fuel and it seperates and turns to goo. That ethonal will rot in the tank and run like crap in the engine. It could be as simple as bad gas. Try that before digging too deep.

Check to see if the choke is closing all the way. Remove air cleaner, then depress throttle to the floor one time, the choke should snap closed all the way. If not, try spraying carb cleaner on the linkage, it may be gunked up. But most likely a broken spring or wire.

I bought mine from JC Whitney, one row aluminum with plastic tanks for $100 shipped. They always have some sale for free shipping or 20% off so it's a good place to order it. I found that ALL of the online radiator stores, and the parts stores, autozone, advance, napa, etc, all sell the same brand radiators so price is the only thing to really look at, and you need to shop around, prices go from $100 to $260!! You can't get a two row anymore, just an aluminum core with plastic tanks, or an all metal brass and copper for $50 or so more. Original is aluminum and plastic. You can remove the temp sender for the dash temp gauge, the one wire one right near the thermostat housing, and put the sender for the aftermarket gauge there with a metric adapter. The gauge will come with sae threaded sender. A clogged or rotting radiator is the #1 or #2 problem with our older Subarus. Usually leading to overheating and head gasket failure. If yours doesn't look new, replace it. High temp is the biggest enemy to our engines. Out of the 7 subarus I've had, 4 were Ea82 cars, every one needed a rad and performed 200% better with a new one. It's very common, and I'm very sure. You may be able to take it to a radiator repair shop and have it cleaned for a lot less, bu tif the rad is in bad shape, they will not do it.

There's a lot of closeout parts for other subaru's too, that's just the link they sent me based on my past orders. The only thing I don't like is the shipping costs, but that's any company online.

Halfway on the gauge is too hot. Unless your sender is bad. New rad, new stat, 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix, it should barely be 1/4 up the gauge. It may be a good idea to install an aftermarket coolant temp guage that shows the actual temp in degrees. You could probably adjust your timing to get it to run better while hot, but it will still be hot.

Your starter is really two seperate things, the solenoid, then the starter motor, which you know. The solenoid is just a switch. It makes contact when the ignition switch, or pushbutton, applies 12v to it. When 12v is applied, the plunger slides forward to make contact between the starter contacts and the brass/copper ring on the plunger which completes the circuit for the full battery amperage to go to the starter motor. The clicking is the plunger slapping the contact(s). If one of the contacts is out of alignment or worn, it won't complete the circuit. If the battery cables are frayed, burnt, corroded, and will not carry the battery amperage, you'll still get the clicking but no action from the starter. Use a pair of jumper cables, put the red clamp on the starter lug, the one that is opposite from the one the battery cable is on(bypassing the solenoid contacts), and the other red one on the positive terminal of the battery. With the car in nuetral, and ignition off or disabled. It should spin the starter. If not, your battery is toast, or the starter is toast. Your battery could have enough power to click the solenoid, but not the high amp starter motor.

Yes.

Unless your thermostat is staying open a bit, the fans on should have no effect on the engine warming up. I get off work between midnight and 4AM usually, and lately it's been 18 or 20 degrees. Cold enough that the battery is strained, and the oil is thick. I let it idle for about one minute and drive away. Going through town at 25 mph, it warms up within 2 miles. I know that's not cold compared to where some of you live.

I'd say take the starter back, they should bench test it and if it tests ok, you have a wiring problem. If not they'll give you a new one. When you remove the starter you should be able to see the teeth on the flywheel, turn the engine by hand with the plugs out to see all of them. Usually the starter gear is a softer metal than the ring gear(flywheel) just for this reason.