Frank B

Yup, tha's a rear bearing for a 4 wheel drive. Good price too!!! Rock Auto sometimes has closeouts and you can get a good deal, just watch the shipping cost, it can bring the total price right back up to parts store prices.

Ok, I though this was a serious bellow of white smoke, "when the car is first turned on in the morning, it usually runs super rough for a minute or so, and especially in the cold will blow some white smoke out the back" because that is exactly what my spfi is doing, and it needs headgaskets..... But it's just the normal condensation and a cold car. Either way, running it several times with the temp that high, and obviously low coolant, there's a high chance the headgaskets or heads are toast now.

Where's the steam(white smoke) in the exhaust coming from? Every EA81 subaru I've owned has had head gasket or cracked head issues, two turbo, two non. I have an SPFI with that problem right now. If there was no "white smoke" or almost instant overheating, I'd say yeah, thermostat/gasket or intake gasket.

Or you could replace the radiator, thermostat, intake gaskets hoping that it's the problem before you tear into the engine. You could remover the exhaust and see if coolant is coming out if the ports. Or, pull the spark plugs and see if they're wet.

Classic head gasket or cracked head. May have started as a head gasket, but running that hot several times, your gonna have a cracked head. The heads crack at the exhaust port and it's deep enough to let coolant leak into the exhaust. or they crack between the valve seats and the coolant leaks into the chamber. Either way, if you like the car, find another engine and swap it out. Probably less time and effort to do that than a head gasket replacement jus tto find out the heads are toast too.

we all have to worry about emissions, but that's another topic all together..

The bebnifit is reduced emissions due to the reduction of the gas vapor(hydrocarbons) being released. If it were mine, or I should say, if I wanted to clean up the engine bay, I'd move the canister. Most cars now have them behind the fender where you can't even see them. I guess if you really wanted to clean up things, you could gut the cat, removed the egr, cut down every tree you see, and pour all your old oil right in your front yard(next to the the well would be best)

I have done NOTHING to my subaru, not even drive it since June. probably sell it soon.

that canister is there to contain the gas vapors from the gas tank due to expansion, and evaporation. When you start the car, those vapors are drawn into the engine and burned off. It reduces pollution(emissions). You will see no benefit by removing it.

Is this 2wd or 4wd?? My 2wd just has tapered bearings in the back. You need a puller to get the race from the spindle/axle thing. Other than that, just a punch. remove wheel, remove drum, bearings are right there.

Your clutch is working, the compressor is toast. If the clutch engaged with no pressure in the system, you have other problems too. It should not do that. The pressure switch is there so the clutch will not engage, the compressor will not turn, so you won't fry your compressor running it without the oil and refrigerant circulating. You need a new, or used compressor, new dryer, properly flushed system, and new oil and freon, and fix that pressure switch, or find out if it's been hardwired, so you don't burn it up again. All your doing by forcing that thing to turn is tearing it up more. It's easier to remove it, put it on the ground, and hit it with a sledge hammer, after you get your new one in...

I put two NEW Cardone axles on my Loyale a while back, I got them when they where on sale for $48.00 shipped on Amazon. Anyway, two boxes, same part number, same box, but two different manufacturers. They both fit and went on fine but they were made by two different companies, different paint, quality, clamps etc. So it's hard to tell where they came from!

The problem isn't so much the tires, but the mud not having anywhere to go. If you had an open wheel vehicle so the mud could sling out and not clog up the tires, you'd be able to move around in that stuff.

Does this only happen under a load? Up hill, or with the AC on? Mine is terrible going up a hill with the AC on, pings so bad I have to turn off the AC to keep from crying... Also, did you check the exhaust gaskets? if they are leaking air may be sucked in and throwing off the O2 readings.

well, does anyone know the specs on the Subaru coils listed on that page? We can go by that I guess.

Well, that's one way to get easy access to the heater core! Glad you got out man. I met a guy once that had some of those old silver water filled fire extinguishers like the ones that they used to have in schools. He would fill them with 50/50 water and antifreeze for all weather use. Not good for oil or electrical but cheap.

I found this while looking for a coil for my old John Deere skid loaders Wisconsin engine. It was created for MG owners but since there's some Subaru numbers, we could use it too to back cross to find one for our cars. I happened to have one of the Petronix coils that I had on a Hatch so I used it on the loader, big fat spark now! http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig110.htm

You can easily find other small problems to fix while figuring this one out. Get under the car after it's cool, and just tap and try to wiggle the exhaust shields, if you find a loose one, either tach weld it or wrap a large hose clamp around it to keep it still. Remove the belts on the engine and turn eash pulley by hand to see if any are rough, there's an idler in there that may have dries up. you may get away with just cleaning out the old grease and using new, but chances are the bearing is bad. Also turn the alternator. Try to see if there is any play in the ac clutch. When the ac clutch went on my Lumina, it sounded like an alrm clock going off! You also have two tensioners for the timing belts, same deal, bearings dry up over time. But save that for the last effort since you have to dig to get to them. Check your fans, turn them by hand or turn on the ac at idle to see if the electric fan makes noise. Remove the intake hose, exhaust or whatever you need to in order to access the shaft and see if there is any play. Can you replicate the sound revving up the engine, no load?

You may be able to just clean the sensors. 17mm wrench and socket. Use a wire brush and/or emory cloth to clean all varnish, baked on coolant residue, and even the outside and electrical connector.

Niku-Sama, your definitely on the right track. I've had luck with just the oil pump seals taking care of the TOD, sometimes just an oil change will do it, sometimes a cleaner like Rislone, Seafoam, or MMO will do it, sometimes a new oil pump will do it, sometimes the cam case O rings, sometimes front crank seal, sometimes removing and cleaning the lifters by hand or just replacing them, etc, etc. There are many causes and it could take more to fix it. Just because your not doing what someone else has done, or vice versa, doesn't mean your doing something wrong. My Loyale, just needed to change the oil and filter. It leaks so much oil that the oil was "changed" every three weeks by replacing what leaked out. Of course the funk still builds up and clogs the lifters. After the oil change, with 1 quart of Rislone, about ten miles driving cleared up the tick. The O ring doesn't have to be damaged, and pulled in to suck air. It's the flattening, and hardening of the rubber. It will still seal the oil from leaking, but the vacuum created by the oil pump will pull in air and fill the lifters with it. Air compresses, oil does not, lifters tick because they can't pump up. I say finish with the pump and see what happens.

Does the axle fit snugly on the axle stub on the tranny? If it is loose you ave the wrong axle. the roll pin is there only to keep the axle from coming off on the the tranny axle stub, not to take the torque turning the wheels. The splines do that. You only need to rotate the axle one half rotation(180 degrees as mentioned earlier) and it will line up. If you still have the ball joint out of the spindle, just pull out on the spindle to get the axle off of the stub and rotate it. One hole in the axle has a bevel or chamfer or counter sunk hole. The other is flush with the axle. The one with the bevel is where you insert the pin, and drive it in. Don't put a smaller bolt in there, that's just lazy and dumb. I know this is all you have to do, because just like some of the other members that have posted, I've done this enough times that I can do it mith my eyes closed.

Sounds more like the last person in there screwed it up. If you don't get the axle, spacer, and bearings lined up correctly before you pull the axle through, it could gouge it. Or they used the wrong piece for the spacer, maybe it was damaged and they just put whatever in there. Rarely do these axles just pop in with new bearings so they could have just used more force instead of doing it right. I've done this so many times I could do it with my eyes closed now! I just replaced them on my loyale and one pulled right through easy, the other I had to pull it through with the nut and some pipe. Anyway, if you had metal shavings and noise, it was worth the time to replace the bearings and seals. As long as the axle doesn't wobble in there, and the surfaces that the seals touch are not gouged, it should be fine. But if the areas that the axle makes contact with the bearings are worn, you need a new axle.

Here's an oil cooler; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-96-300zx-twin-turbo-oil-cooler-wrx-evo-240sx_W0QQitemZ220415089540QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3351c35b84&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Check his other items too.....

That's a good move, the yard thinks they have a trashed engine anyway..

I guess he wants to sell it whole. It may not have been a good rebuilder, just becasue it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was done properly, or quality gaskets were used. Good luck, I hope it's what your after.