Frank B

Try that Eagle One All Wheel and Tire cleaner sometime, it makes a difference. While you have the timing belts off, do the cam seals and front crank seal. Pull the pulleys off of the belt idlers and regrease the bearings too. Oh, the turbos I've had really liked a new O2 sensor. You can get cheap(price) ones on Ebay. The TPS may just need to be adjusted, or cleaned. You can get it apart to clean the contacts then use epoxy or zip ties to keep it together if it breaks.

That oil cooler is worth keeping, once you get the actual cooler part of it. get used to that oil leak to, or pull the engine and replace ALL the seals, most likely cam seals and valve cover gaskets. +1 on the firewall electrical connectors being for diagnostic equipment. That line next to the coil may be fore the heater and AC controls, do they work? I think that line goes through the firwall on the other side anyway. There is also a boost sensor for the ecm. Does the car have the center differential lock? The switch should be near the shifter. It uses two vacuum solenoids up near the firewall. Get a manual with a vacuum diagram, or search here for one. Did you replace the heater hoses, turbo coolant hose, and the little ones on the intake? The little ones will get you. With an engine that dirty, I'd say a bath is in order. i like Eagle one wheel and tire cleaner, not too strong smeeling, and it pulls the dirt right out of the rubber. usually takes two bottles. Then clean all the electrical connections, ALL of them. Then add a few ground wires, one from intake to engine case, one from case to body. Is there any fault codes, or check engine light?

Pull it so you can get a real good look at it. If it ran out of oil for any reason, leave it. As far as swapping any of the power options, I say leave them alone. Every EA82 Subaru I've had that has had all the power options, including the loyale I have now, was a headache. Cleaning contacts, replacing relays, bad grounds etc.

Well, there's a few ways to reduce the heat in the turbo. You could wrap it in header wrap, the fiberglass heat insulating material, they sell that in a blanket form for turbos. You could plumb a heater core in the coolant hose to the turbo, effectively reducing the coolant temp before it reaches the turbo, and maybe one after the turbo to reduce the amount of heat dumping into the cylinder head. And simply increasing the flow of the exhaust after the turbo will let the exhaust flow through it and reduce saturation time.

Well, you may notice an improvement then. The bypass and a good true cold air intake may be a good mod.

Glad you found it. You could bypass it, the throttle body, but I doubt you'd notice any difference since the intake is heated by the coolant flowing through it.

Headlight relays. Up behind the dash, under steering wheel or behind fuse box. Look for two right next to each other, round tops. All the relays in the car are the same, so once you find them, pull them and replace with the ac relay or other relay to see if it fixes it before you buy new ones. When you do buy new ones, find the Pilot PLRY1 relay, it's a 30 amp and cheaper then the OEM replacement. Autozone or Advance auto has them around here.

There's a small coolant hose, about the size of the fuel line, that warms the throttle body. Also could be the intake gaskets.

I didn't know there were different sized rods. Maybe it's just the bushings on the ends that are worn???? If it's bent, take it off, lay in on a flat surface so the curve is up and whack it with a sledge hammer. Roll it to see it's good, if not, whack it again. I hit a tree years ago and bent mine up, had to take the hammer to it, and it worked!

Best bet is to remove it all, again, and double check everything. Are your rotors warped at all? A surging felt while applying the brakes? Sometimes if it is it will only rub at a certain point. Look for shiney spots on the rotor, axle, shields, etc.

It's going to be hard to do with two carbs, but you start with 2 1/2 turns out, start the engine and let it warm up. Set idle speed, then adjust the idle mixture with tthe screws in question by turning in untill the engine stumbles, then out untill it smoothes out. Usually settling 1/4 to 1/2 turn farther out then that. All that with a single carb, so you may want to start with 1 1/2 turns out. You may be able to use an infared thermometer on the exhaust to balance them.

The stock springs on my 92 loyale are real soft, rides nice but the taller snow tires will rub on a good bump. I put rear struts from a 2wd wagon on the rear and I have no problems back there anymore. The springs were a larger diameter, I think 1mm more. So there are different springs out there. it looks like I need RX springs for the front.. I've owned both, 2wd and 4wd, and the 4wd's were a stiffer ride.

The pugs, second from the left, what cars are they off of? And what sizes?

You may just need a new modulator.

Race...no Pimp...no Reliable...yes, once it's fixed. You'll give your buddy a run for his money or blow his doors off if you swap in an EJ22, search the board and read all about that. If you decide to do that, forget about all the engine problems and put your money into a good EJ22 swap. If you want to fix it, your looking at a tear down to replace the head gaskets, and every other gasket and seal in the engine, if the heads aren't crackrd too bad, as well as a new radiator. The brake fluid light is from the sensor in the master cylinder, you may just be low on brake fluid, or need a new sensor. The parking brake light, probably a bad switch, look near the handle under the plastic covers. Check engine light, read about it here; http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Good luck, and post some pics.

Is that 150 for the engine or the car? You'll need more parts than just the engine. I have to ask, are you putting the water in the radiator, or the oil fill tube? In order to find out why this is happening, you have to tear into that engine, which you will have to do to fix it. So pull it, tear it down to inspect. It may be simple. Or just find another SPFI engine to replace it. So you can drive it, and save up the money and parts to swap the EJ22 into it. It's a good chance to get to know the Subaru.

I had the same problem with my 92, new NGK wires, plugs, cleaned injector, new brass terminal cap & rotor, timing set, cleaned egr and pcv, checked all vacuum hoses, fuel filter, etc, etc, blah, blah. It didn't stop until I switched from conventional gas to E10 blend. Now it's smooth and strong. When I first get on it, it will ping like it's burning off the built up carbon, then it's smooth. Is it running hot? That will also do it. If the needle on your gauge gets higher than 1/4 inch from the resting position, it's running too hot.

Usually you get the moisture in the cap when the engine isn't getting hot enough, for long enough to boil out the moisture from the oil. Or it's time to change the oil. How long of a trip does the car make every day? Is the engine getting up to temp(thermostat working?) The engine needs to get above 180 degrees for at least 30 minutes as a general rule. The moistur ein the air and the condensation that develops as the engine cools is where that comes from. Unless you have an internal coolant leak, which you do not. When you cleaned/replaced the PCV hoses, did you remove the valve covers and clean them up too? The crust develops in there to blockinf flow. Also, is there a high vacuum at the pcv? Remove it and start the engine, or start the engine and remove it and see how well it sucks. Maybe replace the pcv with an OEM one, they say they're better.

According to the pic in the auction, that first one is a one row. The second, it doesn't say so who knows. The referbished one, well you have a used one now. You'll be real lucky to get a true two row for under $200. From what I learned while shopping for one for my Loyale is that there are no new two rows being made. So if you get one it will be NOS, new old stock, that's been on a shelf for a while, which is still new. The two row aluminum was replaced with the copper core one row with brass tanks, said to transfer heat better so it replaced the two row aluminum, but you don't get the extra capacity. I ordered 4 and returned three before I settled for an aluminum one row from Autozone. Here's the story, all three pages. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90764&highlight=radiator A one row aluminum rad will be just fine, even with a turbo I suspect, my loyales temp guage doesn't move at all once it gets to operating temp.

Where in VA are you?

It would be best to remove the interior to clean it. If done that with two subes and it isn't that bad. The carpet, seats and trunk carpet, can be hosed down and dry quickly in the sun. The door panels would need to be wiped by hand. If the carpet padding comes up easy, you can wipe the bare floor down. I used Simple Green the first time, but this last time I used Spray Nine, and that stuff will kill ANYTHING! Just lay out the carpet and set up the seats, spray with the Spray Nine to saturate it. Let sit about ten minutes, then turn the hose on it untill it rinses clean.

Replace the radiator while your at it. You will find that there are no 2 row radiators available anymore, unless you find a NOS one. The 2 row was replaced with an all metal brass/copper one. And the standard rad is aluminum with plastic tanks. Realisticlly, if you install an intercooler or oil cooler, you should be able to get away with the aluminum rad. Take a good look at the timing belts while your in there, cam seals, and oil pump seals. And while your at it, remove the CTS, coolant temp sensor, and the engine temp switch9sensor for the dash guage) and clean all the corrosion from the threads in the manifold, threads on the sensor itself, and from the electrical connectors.

Keep in mind that the subaru engine more related to a motorcycle engine then a car engine. With the split cases and all. But any flange sealant, or anaerobic selant will be fine. As mentioned, use sparingly, it only takes a little bit. You'll see that those type of sealants come in a very small tube, for a reason.

High heat is most likely the radiator.

Mine does that whenever it's really cold outside. Was it cold? You may be able to get by with just re-greasing it. There was a post a while back about removing the end from the tranny and pulling out the inner cable. Clean it well, slap on some new grease, then slide it back in.