Subeast-EA81

Full time was not an option in 1991. Push button single range was the only offering.

Disconnect the control cable from the vacuum actuator from the control rod on the back of the transmission, then manually shift it into 2WD by operating that control rod all the way aft. if its still binding after that just pull the rear CV axles out,

No it wont, been doing it for years with 0 issue

I would imagine it would have to do with the Eyesight loosing its ability to track the lanes, or as stated earlier the reflected light off the water. I don't have eyesight on my outback, but I have had some experience, and if it cannot see the lines in the road it can get real confused.

If you are swapping it into any 3rd gen N/A car best bet is anything 87+. As for gear ratios as long as the donor transmission did not come out of a Turbo car the gear ratio will be the same as your Loyale and there is no need to swap the rear diff. if you happen to get one out of a turbo car you will not be impressed with those gear ratios and will be mostly counteracting the benefits of the low range, also IIRC the turbo boxes had a taller low range as well to best to avoid those all together. like stated previously 87+ EA82 N/A car for the donor and you will be walking in tall cotton, easy bolt in swap.

Replace the Idlers, you can clearly see the scuff line on the cam pulley and that's where the belt should be riding, a small misalignment will cause this. i would recommend replacing both tensioners as well.

Welcome! your in good company. lots of knowledgeable good natured folks here.

I was good to Meet you Moosens, and great spending time with the rest of you at WCSS. I miss it already.

Welcome! what kind of swap are you entertaining?

if its running rough in the AM and hard starting, my guess from experience is the coolant temp sensor is not functioning correctly, (Code 21) therefore not telling the ECM to richen the mixture for a cold start condition (common failure). Hope this helps

Ok! Good News the Inhibitor Switch took care off many of the issues, i can now start the car with the key, the back up lights now work, the torque converter locks up at proper intervals and i can manual shift the car as it now is aware of what gear its in. However it still downshifts like a mad teenager in a honda trying to pass a bus, as in it comes out of gear revs up to about 4 grand then falls into the desired lower gear violently. could that possible be the line pressure resistor located on the passengers strut tower? slowly getting closer to making this thing road worthy

Update! i climbed under the car to examine the inhibitor switch as its called (its acutely a combination PRND321 position switch) upon removal of the switch i bench tested it as per the FSM and found it to be faulty, this would also explain why it will not start unless i hot wire it. Will have a new switch in hand tomorrow and will update with results.

congrats on the brat!! greetings from battle ground Wa!

ill check on the that TCU location when i get home, as far as the Diag. connectors those are not plugged in, like i said above i'm a pretty good wrench but auto transmissions are not my forte' but for some reason this appears to be something common that's making the transmission behave like a neanderthal, and TCU is a good suspect. However the fluid change is in its future i'm sure

The TCU was also something I suspected. Although I'm not sure how I would go about testing it? The trans fluid looks fresh and new as as does the spin-on filter perhaps changing the fluid again would help but the suggestion you made about possibly being jumped backwards and smoking the TCU and the immobilizer sounds quite possible.

i purchased the car with a blown axle, and the alarm system stuck immobilize, Replaced the axle, bypassed the alarm system. Trans fluid was low when i got it running, and i have topped it off with fresh, checked while warm while idling. Car has a clean title, and i ran the vin after purchase, it came with records including a full trans service from Meineke within the last 20k miles. No warning lights or codes at this time.

So my 2000 forester seams to be possessed,... for starters it doesn't seem to matter where i place the shifter,... i.e. 1-2-3-D it will still shift all the way to 4th gear at regular RPMS as if it was in Drive. Second when it goes to downshift up a hill or passing it falls out of gear,..revs up past 4 grand then slams right back into the gear it came from, and lastly the torque converter is not locking up at all.. This thing has me perplexed,.. I'm a pretty good wrench but I'm not auto trans wiz. any suggestions are appreciated.

91 Loyale EA82 SPFI Delta Cams Running 27 Degrees Advanced on Premium Fuel Ported Polished Caterpillar 150Amp Alternator Detroit Diesel/Racor Catch Can 3" Cat Back 4" SOS/Allied lift 15" SOS/Allied wheels 235/75-R15 Federals Legacy Seats SOS/Allied Stainless Skid Plate D/R Conversion GMRS Radio On Dash Android tablet Custom LED interior Lighting Tons of Exterior Lights Alpine IDA-305s Deck Pioneer EQ JL 13.5 w6 @ 500w 2ohm And the List goes on......

Well pulled the car in garage and the water pump is leaking now

Yeah I'm sure. I just got home from a short vacation and the car had sat. No signs of leaking. You suggest head gaskets however the compression gas tests (I did 5 tests) came up negitive. Is it still a possibility?

i had already relieved the pressure via the cap and was testing with the cap off. Hose was pulled with the radiator cap off and engine off. then started and idled up momentarily

fluids where topped off,.. i burped it,.. and subsequently ended up removing the discharge hose from the block, had my wife start it, and only a small trickle comes out at an idle with the temp gauge around 3/4 to hot. the flow around 2000 doesn't seem sufficient for cooling. it was running fine a few days ago then it sat for three days and this happens. Condition of the T-stat unknown at this point, i personaly hadn't delt with it yet, but looks like a T-belt and water pump kit is in my future. thankfully the gas test is negative for now.

Test done on hot engine.seams to overheat at an idle... but when I stick my finger in the radiator it's not hot at all

So the OBW decided to start overheating, my guess is that its the water pump. I pulled the upper hose off and barely a trickle comes out when its idling. Also did the burp procedure and did a Combustion gas test on the radiator numerous times with negative results,.. So,.. How much water, should the water pump,.. pump? 1996 OBW EJ22

Well the plan is the vacuum cans. Hopefully it works because that would be rather slick. I'll take some pics along the way