Bucky92

Maybe its just the gauge. you have access to one of those laser thermometers? I can suggest the set up I am running on the coupe..extremely accurate. takes all of 5 minutes to install. It would give you a better idea of what the temp actually is. Got this from backwoodsboy. Get a digital oven thermometer..the one with the little read out..a cord with a probe on the end. shove the probe under the foam around the heater core lines inside the car under the dash..and there you have it..beyond accurate temp gauge. I can get some pics later if you want

Just going through the usual causes.... you did burp the system? new rad cap? make sure none of the hoses are collapsing coolant level ok..checked for cold spots on the rad? EA82 rads are notorious for getting clogged. Also you should be running it with a T stat..it allows the coolant to stay in the rad longer and cool it off better. And I know you know this ..but OEM only. run the car ( in idle) with the rad cap off ..keep checking it for bubbles in the radiator..might take a good 15 minutes to get warmed up the whole way. one or 2 bubbles every second or so is OK...but many more then that..check for head gaskets. Mine would run alittle warm..but when I was checking this for someone else..thats when I discovered mine was bubbling so much it looked like foam. Good luck

I couldnt resist...had to see what these are going to look like...only part I have more rare then these ( which these are brand new last in the country in dealer stock) is my louvers. Droooollll.: Dont worry..they were just set in the mounting holes...the adhesive is still intact and they are back at home in their foam bags and bubblewrap

we are now 24 hours later ( ok more like 36) and its still holding at........ 12.53!!! :banana::banana: Going to pull the carb today and get it boxed up to send to Jerry DeMoss the weber master! if he is ready for it. BTW.. Thanks a Million for all the help John and Jess. Couldnt have done it without you.... and Steve (hatchsub) Thanks for bringing that BEAUTIFUL Camaro out. I told you we wouldnt make you park it around the block.

I will probably be fixing those myself since I do my own minor body work. Mine arent bad at all..just havent cleaned them up yet so it looks worse then it is.

NO hurry Bill... you have your mind on other things right now..if you know what I mean.

Thanks.. the thing is ..Backwoodsboy was playing with the electrical and we still have no clue what he did. He is even clueless. All he did was unwrap the harness around the alt. and ..now it is good.:-\ Also started removing unnecessary wiring and relays and parts from the engine bay. going to give it a cleaner appearance. Will also make it easier to remove everything and replace it after the trip to body and paint. I am still hoping all this is worth it in the end....I keep questioning if I am doing the right thing. Right now my poor coupe looks so naked.

12.53 volts and holding as of this morning :banana::banana: we are still not sure what we did but ..well ..its not draining now. So I will probably be pulling the carb in the next week and sending it out to you Jerry:grin: ( finally ..geesh I am slow). amd here is the links to the in process pics..I got some decent ones showing the body damage that I am having fixed. http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f335/Bucky92/LBsRestore/

yummmmm touring wagons. as for the external leaks... my old Loyale Bucky has had an external head gasket leak for the whole length I owned it and it still has it ...so that is a known 6 years ( who knows how long before). Does it just ooze?? if so I wouldnt worry...just check the coolant level once in awhile. as for overheating it...you know the normal things to check quick...bubbles in rad etc. Good Luck! ( I am secretly jealous cause I have wanted a touring wagon for a long time)

I am not just talking about the area where it sinks...the lines on the rear section do not look right. All the others I have seen have a lower roof line...and on the side...its covering the striping you dont like. Granted these were manufactered here in the states..AFTER the car was imported by 2 places...one in NJ and the other in Cali. As for the trunk area.. I am still curious. I know the undercoating on the car can hide alot. I happen to have a west coast 98% rust free coupe and I have trunk rot from the rear rack leaking. I have the full complete one also. I vote for relpacing if you can.. I just restored the wood and everything on mine and it looks beautiful: and here is mine. It doesnt look like this right now as it is being stripped down and being fully restored..trying to have it ready for paint in the fall so it will be unvailed next spring in time for the car show curciut. It missed this year with an electrical problem. But this is in original condition. But I like seeing people fixing these cars..they are so rare to begin with and getting even more rare everyday. ( note..thats Darlingchips EJ22 Brat and hatchsubs 83 sedan)

I have seen a few of these convertibles and I can say... that top doesnt look like the right one for the car...sorry to say. something is not right with it. I also wonder what is living in the trunk since it wont open and with it missing the luggage rack strip there will be holes to allow water inside.

So we might have nipped the electrical problem in the butt...will know by morning...but right now it is holding steady at 12.54v. Something blew out the EA82 alt ..so we put the XT6 alt back on and for now it seems fine. I have the drivers side 90% stripped down. poor baby looks so naked. I have pics I will download later. I think I asked about 5 times if I am doing the right thing...almost feel like I am hurting the car. Jerry.. if the voltage holds overnight... I will be sending you that weber soon. we also retorqued the heads and adjusted the valves. And hatchsub even said that mine runs nicer and quieter then his low mileage hydro motor. I have also desided on my paint and body guy... I have gotten quite a few refrences for this guy so I think I will go with him. http://www.Austinsautoworks.com does superb work and at half the first quote.

sweet... looking forward to better and more pics. I hope it hasnt seen too much of the NE evil winter car eating salt. I lost a couple to it ..looked decent up top but under was gawdawful

those green and black connectors are for running your codes and then erasing stored codes..should be ..but they are usually under the hood on EA82s. The grey wire ..not sure...but the other box looks like it could be an old alarm system or remote start system and the adjust is for sensitivity...that would be my guess...which might also tie into the mystery grey wire. BTW Nice wagon.. I have a thing for white wagons..especially EA82 style.

Just an idea... possibly add a temp gauge like I have in my coupe. is 100% more accurate then the one in the dash..gets down to the 10th of a degree. and you even set an alarm on it. Takes all of 3 minutes to install and costs about $15. It will at least give you a heads up earlier then the dash. Not going to fix the problem at all but at least give you some warning. I have to look around but I might have an XT6 waterpump laying around here still.

The front windshield will run about $300 new.... dont ask what a rear one would cost ( if you had the hardtop like I have ) I agree with turbone on doing the mods..it will ruin the car. I am doing a full restoration of my 83 GL-10 coupe and to me its worth it knowing they are so rare...and the convertibles...I know of one other one in mass owned by a member. Even the regular hardtop can be hard to find parts for since so much of the car is coupe specific. There are some spots underneath that should be checked for rust. Check everything over well for water damage from the top possibly leaking ( if it was kept outside) Also check for rodent damage. The carbs can be problematic and you can either do a weber swap or an SPFI conversion...both are covered here alot. Good Luck with it

OMG Bill!! I am so sorry :(:( At least you are physically ok...but mentally might take awhile to heal. If you need anything let me know and I will see what I can do. And here I had been hoping my coupe would burst into flames... :-\

Hey Drew.. I am with moosens...be prepared to have it shipped...it is really worth it in the long run. Good Luck

well I have the DS rear corner about stripped off and cleaned up. debating on if I want to put the thin trim back on ( I was able to remove it and keep it straight) I am also trying to think how I am going to get the lower rubber trim off without bending it...that I definitely want back on. I am also thinking of how to get the rear side window trim off gently..the front side is lose after removing the 2 screws ..but I am afraid of bending the back edge where the clips are. Anyway...here is what the rear bumper damper strut looks like ( the good one. and some other pics: I love minimal rust

I am running the Outback struts both front and rear on my 95 Lego...but we added the lift blocks from the outback in the rear to get rid of the rear dragging look. Leveled it out nicely actually.Took all of 10 minutes to pull them off of the rear subframe at the JY. And I recently had 500 lbs of mulch in the back without any problems

Dont play the female game... I happen to be one too so its something I dont sympathies with. Go to a different dealer and never act like you dont know anything. Demand that the problem be fixed... you are in control of the matter. Not them. And like I stated..dont be afraid to contact SOA of the matter. I never let any garage play me for stupid.. but I have a reputation for knowing my crap about cars. I even have guys stop by my house that I dont know wanting to know if I can look at thier Subarus and fix them. It sounds to me like a caliper is dragging there is no reason for it.. its a new car. they HAVE to fix it. Keep bringing it back even if it is once a week.

I have had my 08 Imp since Nov of 07 and have 38K on it..I am still on the original pads. But the cars do have an issue with the rotors warping. I had mine turned once about 12K ago. Have the dealer check for stuck calipers...or try a different dealer..it doesnt matter what Subaru dealer you go to for service. Also dont be afraid to report the problem to SOA. They actually want to hear about stuff like this

I have followed this car and until he replaced the PCV and EGR it did blow oil smoke...just puff it out whenever the car would be shifting or when he would let off the gas. It never poured out. A little more history of the motor. it sat for about 2 years before he put it in the car last year. We discussed for a little today about picking up another EJ22 later this summer and putting another in the car. EJ22s are something we dont have any trouble at all finding cheap around here. But correct me if I am wrong...black smoke is carbon right? I want to follow the car for a ways this weekend and see if its still puffing.

I forgot I have a complete 83 parts catalog..and it appears that coupe, sedan, and hatch all take the same part

I can get that paint right down the street from me...just give them the color code and it will be there within an hour. Good paint..I have some in the Cosmic Blue for my 83..thats how I learned how faded it is. Looks great Kyle!!! and your right..its all in the prep work.