pwoens

It does seem to start and idle better after its warmed up. I read that scoobymods thread and was leaning towards the IACV and that thread has me leaning more towards it now. Just wish they were not so darn expensive lol

No check engine lights and no codes being thrown. The AT Temp Light will flash when idle is really low. I have never understood a good way to check for vacuum leaks - any quick insight on proper route to check this? Same with checking fuel pressure - not sure how to do that?? Thanks buddy!!

Hello everyone, Kids car is a 2003 subaru forester 2.5 x 160k auto. Replaced head gaskets last year prior to kid getting her license - made her help . Once she started driving we quickly found out the gas tank had a faulty vent valve and gave us the notorious issue of slow fill at the pump. We identified the vent valve as the culprit and replaced it. (that job was horrible BTW!!). It idled and ran fine prior to replacing the vent valve in the tank but after the vent valve job was complete we have had a difficult time getting it to start without giving it gas and it idles low most of the time, especially when cold. We did unplug the battery during the vent valve job and found out this can cause a loss of memory on appropriate idle level in some cases??? Here is what I have done to date trying to resolve the intermittent bad idle and not starting without giving it gas: replaced fuel pump reset/relearn the idle by unplugging battery, draining battery, plugging battery back in, turning ignition to on, waiting 10 seconds, and ten starting the car without touching the gas. Important note: The care would NEVER run after plugging the battery back in UNLESS you gave it gas. I even tried turning it over countless times hoping it would learn on its own. This process never would work for me. Cleaned the throttle body thoroughly inspected all hoses going to fuel pump. It runs fine when you are driving it, just idles low and hard to start. unable to find a MAF on this sub anywhere Anyone have this issue and find a resolution? Appreciate any insight anyone may have.

04 Outback H6 LL Bean 124k - has shifted hard from 2nd to 3rd since the day I bought it. I've flushed the transmission by draining fluid, refilling with fresh fluid, and repeat 3 times. I've also replaced the remote trans filter with OEM filter. It's also received the "special" additive from Subaru that's suppose to help with the transfer clutches sticking a little (a whole different topic but should have nothing to do with 2-3 shifting). Doesn't matter on temp the car always shifts harder than it should form 2-3. Took it to local renowned sub shop and they said replace the trans. Don't believe it. I'd like to swap the shift solenoid first. How and where can I find the exact solenoid I need? Is it a pretty simple job? I've replaced the H6 HG myself so I can't imagine a shift solenoid is too complicated?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks

98 impreza ... Could I add cruise control easily? Or is this a big job? If it's doable what all do I need from the parts car? Thanks

cool...ya, the turbo has a hydro clutch... so will the trannys be exactly the same, like will bell housings and all that line up? So how do I tell if the ratio's are correct??

my 93 turbo legacy 5 speed ran out of fluid and is shot....will a 92 non turbo 5spd from same legacy body style work???

Hey.... my 93 turbo legacy started developing an intermittent wobble in the steering wheel about a week ago. Sometimes it will do it when accelerating, sometimes on deceleration, sometimes not at all. Sometimes it will give a quick jerk on the wheel to the left and then release?? I jacked the front end up and both tires feel solid, no looseness like a bearing going out? Tie rod ends and cvs look fine?? Thinking maybe something in the rack/pinion?? Any experience, thoughts, or ideas?? It also does not appear to do it above 45...so anywhere from 15-45 is where it will do it?? thanks for any insight

plug is still in and has not come loose at all...just to update ya

I was always under the impression the ej22's were non interference, but it hit me that I really dont know.. So is my ej22t an interference or not?? If not I should prob change the belts

7500 is way too much especially considering they will prob just be auctioning it off anyways.. Id say 4500-5500 for seattle area.

I'll be sure to keep my ears open for the ticking/knocking sounds and will check the tightness over the next few days/weeks. Any cure for it if it is in fact dabaged threads now??

for a meger 13-20 bucks I would replace the coolant temp sensor....it fixed my problem of similar issue. If I held the gas peddle pegged it would eventually start....so next time it doesnt start try the pedal to the medal. And swap coolant temp sensor.

so the last few days I have noticed a tick/knocking sound....figured I was going to throw a rod or something. Well...today I was heading up a little hill and all of a sudden kaboom!!! sounded like I threw a rod, smoke blowing, and some loud knocking. I figured I was hosed but popped the hood to see the spark plug dangling and sparking against the fender well. What a relief...some how the plug worked its way loose and that was the ticking/knocking noise. So i put er back together and no noises......runs like a champ. so if anyone has any ticking or knocking, check your plugs first

seems it was either the coolant temp sensor (most likely) or the o2 sensor along with temp sensor....replaced both cause i needed to anyways and now problem seems to have gone away....woohoo...thanks everyone.