Mike V

OK. Belt job is complete. All seems good. One thing though is that I pretty much ruined (or finished ruining) the plastic clips that secure the utility/serpentine belt cover, the air snorkel as well as the clips on the driver's side that secure the radiator cover. I am searching for the replacements but it is not clear on the websites whether I am looking at the right clips. Anyone know the part numbers of know of a good site where they point out the various clips in that area?

Thanks for the suggestion, Moose, and I will definitely keep it in mind for future but for the heck of it I looked up the OUTER timing cover for my 2012 Outback, 2.5 l. SOHC, non turbo and they show the wrong one. My car has the two-cover setup and their website shows the three-cover setup.

Thanks Mike. I hope it is like that because I did helicoil it but, as usual when trying to install a helicoil into an engine "in situ" it was not a smooth operation and although I think I am ok (the tensioner bolt did tighten up) , next time I am in there I will replace that part if it is an option. So, belt is in place and all pulleys, etc. installed. Timing marks line up correctly. That was as far as I got because it started raining and I am a shade tree mechanic. Thanks again for all comments!

DISASTER! The threads for the tensioner bolt stripped out of the block. Was not even close to the 29 ft-lb specified torque.

And I am not sure why I am considered a "New User" with only some 17 posts. It may have been a year or two since I last posted but I actually go pretty far back with this site. Glad to see it is still active and helpful!

Thanks guys. That first video looks like my engine and it confirms that the seam I mentioned above is what is used as the timing mark,. I will install the new belt and pulleys today but I will have to wait to receive a new belt cover since I broke the original one... Ordered one off Ebay. 60 bucks. The Aisin kit came with a Mitsuboshi belt, Koyo and NSK idlers and NTN tensioner. ALL parts say Made in Japan including the water pump although I did not see a brand name on it.

Got the Aisin kit. Looks good. I'll post more detail later but I have a technical question: I do not see a timing mark on the block for the right side (passenger side) cam. The left side has the notch in the plastic inner timing belt cover but there is no plastic inner cover on the right side and I do not see an actual notch on the engine. The notch in the cam sprocket looks like it aligns with a joint between the cylinder head and whatever casting is bolted to it. Is that seam what you use as the timing mark?

Yes sir. I do not know what I was looking at when I came to the wrong conclusion on Friday. I have the TKF 006 kit on order. The info and picture on the Rock Auto site indicate that it includes good parts. I am anxious to see what it actually includes... Thanks for responding to my dumb question. Mike V 2012 Outback, NA, 2.5 l, SOHC 1992 Legacy, EJ22 1997 Legacy Brighton (on death bed)

Rock Auto lists an Aisin timing belt kit for a 2012 Legacy but not for a 2012 Outback with the 2.5 liter SOHC engine. What's the difference?

97 Legacy Brighton Wagon, 2.2 liter, non-turbo, 5 speed manual, 290,000 miles Temperature gauge will climb if let engine idle more than 1 minute or so (once engine is at normal operating temp). The temp gauge needle will drop back to normal if hold revs at a higher speed. No tach but I would estimate like 2500 rpm. If you drive the car normally and don't stop and idle the temp gauge is rock solid just below half way (as it always has read). You don't have to move to bring the gauge down - just hold engine at elevated revs.

Where would I find the proper cooling system bleeding procedure?

I did not think ANY of the 2.2 liter, SOHC engines were "interference engines". Can anyone confirm this?

I work in Bethlehem, myself, so I can guess the dealership you are talking about. Although I have total respect for the mechanics there, I am very leary about the management. I took my wife's car there last year as a last resort since that seemed to be the only way I'd get my car through inspection (the godd_m CEL was on...) and paid alot of money for nothing. They also charge over list price for parts. If it were me, I'd talk directly to the mechanic who, supposedly, diagnosed the clutch problem. Otherwise, I would echo the sufggestion above to get a second opinion eleswhere. There's an independent guy over in Klecknersville who specializes in Subies and he seems upright, honest and knowledgeable. Coincidentally I just changed out the clutch in our Subie last weekend. This weekend will be even colder and snowier. Why not go for it yourself?!?

I dropped the trans to do the job. I do not have a hoist to pull the engine. Sounds like I must have missed that electrical plug. I'll check it out. Thanks for the feedback!

Well, I managed to complete the clutch replacement, including flywheel resurfacing, over the weekend. I did the entire job (except flywheel machining) single-handedly, out in the driveway, with temperatures in the 20's, in approximately 16 man-hours. Not too bad, I guess, considering. But, no doubt, this job is a bit of work on this car. It was a bit easier on my old '87 GL. Thanks to the two folks who posted responses to my initial inquiry. I forgot that the pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel, and not the end of the crank shaft, so it is a simple matter of driving it out. The only issue I still have to resolve is that now the speedometer/odometer does not work. My Haynes manual says I have a "speedometer cable" which had to be disconnected before you drop the transaxle but I definitely do not have a cable on mine. It is possible that I neglected to reconnect a plug if this car has an electrical sender on the trans for this purpose. Does anyone have a comment on this? Again, it is a 1997 Legacy Wagon with the 2.2 l SOHC engine. I am glad I did the job over the weekend 'cause now the temps are in the teens and it would be very difficult to work out there! Thanks again to those who chimed in for me. Mike Vanderzanden

Howdy folks, I plan to replace the clutch (i.e. pressure plate, disk, release bearing and pilot bearing) this weekend. Should be fun, out in the driceway, nice breeze, around 30 deg. F... Anyway, I plan to have the flywheel resurfaced. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions about any aspect of this job that will make things easier or anything I should watch out for while I am at it? Also, any suggestions on how I can remove the pilot bearing without a special tool or a slide hammer? Thanks for any cooments. Have a great weekend all. Vehicle is a 1997 Legacy, SOHC Mike Vanderzanden

Thanks for the comments Nomad. I appreciate you trying to help. To be brutally honest, I find this message board a bit disappointing compared to others I participate on. I have not been able to get much useful advice here. Last time I raised a question here someone suggested just taking the car to a dealer or Subaru specialist and avoid the work. Why would one bother to post a question and give dthe details of the problem if they were going to pay someone to do the work anyway? I checked the price of the vent control solenoid at 1st Subaru Parts.com and then at Liberty Subaru. Same price both places! I ordered it from Liberty. I enjoyed the coincidence that Liberty is located in my home town. Haven't lived there in almost 30 years! Had a nice chat with the parts guy. Thanks again. I hope I did not offend anyone with my comment above. Just reporting my experience. I won't give up. I know there's some folks who know their Subarus around here. Mike V.

I don't think so. Like I said, the mechanic at the dealership (who I trust -it's just the management that I cannot abide) tested the solenoid and found it bad. I also did ask him specifically if it could be a wiring issue and he said that it was not. Thanks for the comment anyway!

The CEL on my 97 Legacy wagon is on and the code is P0446 which apparantly means the "vent control solenoid" is faulty. The car spent a couple of hours in the dealer's shop recently (Long story. Suffice it to say that it was the first time since I've owned this car and it will hopefully be the last) and the mechanic told me he tested the solenoid and the resistance was high so I guess that verifies the problem. Anyway, the dealer wants over $100.00 for the part. My questions are: 1. Is this a good candidate for finding a used one at a salvage yard? 2. Any suggestions for a source for a good price on a new one? 3. Any comments on this problem, in general? Thanks for any advice!

Hello again, Well, as I mentioned in previous thread, my '97 2.2 MT failed PA state emissioins testing because the CEL is on. I asked the inspection station (actually just your basic local garage/gas station) guy to pull the codes and when I picked up the car last night they told me the computer says I have a misfire on Cyls 2 and 4. The guy there suggested I replace the spark plugs and ignition wires, drive the car around a few days and "maybe" that the computer will clear. I do not like to "fix" things in this manner (i.e. replace a part and hope for the best). Also, I replaced the plugs and wires about a year ago. I plan to stop by my local Subaru dealer at lunch today and chat with a mechanic there who has been helpfuil in the past. Any suggestions or comments? Thanks! Mike V

Thanks for warm welcome guys! Well, I just dropped the '97 2.2 back at the service station/inspection station. This is just your basic local garage. They specialize in nothing and although they can "inspect" for emissions and pass or fail your car, they do not have a "technicians" license. Apparantly, here in PA, if you have a technicians license and you make the car owner spend enough money (I believe over $150.00) on trying to get the car to pass the emissions test, they can put a sticker on it even if it does not actually pass! Some scam, huh!?! Anyway, it seems these guys can at least read the computer codes. I don't know if they will be able to interpret them. I may be back here later today for help with that... Oh yeah - As far as I know the car is not actually emitting high amounts of pollution. Since the CEL is on, it fails automatically. So, 'round we go... Thanks again folks. I'll be in touch. Mike V

Howdy all. I have just taken the plunge and registered on this board although I have checked out lots of your posts in the past. Always found some interesting reading! I currently own two Subarus: A '97 Legacy Brighton Wagon (actually is the wife's car) and an '87 GL wagon (pretty much a goner due to rust). My current Subaru situation is that the '97 is up for inspection and they have just instituted mandatory emmissions inspection here. Since my CEL light is on (has been for a LONG time), it failed inspection. I took care of the mechanical problems and will bring the car back to the inspection station/garage tomorrow and I plan to have them read me the computer codes. Guess I'll gpo from there, right? Looking forward to interacting with y'all! Mike V