X35 Performance

Do you offroad guys do anything beyond pushing the 4WD button? Is there a way to manually lock the trans in 4WD without depending on the vac. diaphragm always working? I'd hate to get stranded because my 20 year old vac. actuator started leaking, etc.. Thanks

I'm thinking about doing the RWD conversion on my XT (5MT PB 4WD) but I'm wondering if anyone has done this for a long time? I know lots of people have done the conversion for a little while, or for some experimenting...but will everything be happy if I leave it this way? Since it only snows every 100 years here.. I think I'll be alright w/o 4WD I guess the other (not free) option would be to swap in the XT6 5MT AWD tranny, which may happen someday if I found one...

Actually I have replaced the short hose on one of these injectors, after boogering it up when taking it off the manifold. You have to cut the hose off where it is crimped onto the injector, which is not real easy, but then you can put a short piece of hose and clamp on there and it'll be fine. First quick thing to check might just be the clamps on the fuel line to make sure it is not loose. Like Gary said, you can clamp the fuel return line, connect the test connectors and turn the ignition on (but don't start the car). The pump will run and if the leak is obvious, it should spurt out of there. Don't do this for too long though, as it is tough on the fuel pump because by clamping the return line, you increase the fuel pressure to 60+psi.

I think no..I believe the legacy is side feed, not top feed..

EA82 = EA82T EA82 <> ER27 EA82 are hose fed from the top, where the ER27 are rail fed.

Megasquirt is your friend http://www.msefi.com http://www.megasquirt.info http://www.rs-autosport.com I've been running my XT turbo on it since January, and it is far better than the antique ECU that was in there. Plus you can get rid of the MAF, and change injectors, or do just about anything else...

I just changed this same @#$@ hose on my EA82T XT, and can offer this easy piece of advise. You need a really long screwdriver, or a 1/4" ratchet with a long extention. Put the hose on, then slide the clamp where it is supposed to go. Then you can stick the long screwdriver in from the pass side through the space in the manifold and tighten it up easy. What works really good is one of those screwdriver shafts that are like a spring so you can tighten it up at an angle. It helps to remove the oil filler tube sometimes too, depending on your type of screwdriver. May not be needed though... It took me a long time and lots of swearing before I figured it out, but now I could change it again in about 5 minutes - pretty easy!

I just did this about an hour ago so I could redo the front seal (which was pretty crispy)... I took two screwdrivers and worked it from each side. Careful though.. I broke a little chunk off of each side doing this. This is what they say in the Chiltons book... If I had been a little more patient, it probably would have worked fine...It appears that there might be some loctite on there, so you may want to spray it with some PB blaster or similar and let it work for a little bit.

It looks about the size of a coolant temp sensor, but has an open cage with the sensor inside. It is threaded the same as a coolant sensor. It's about $20something for a brand new one.

Check out the Megasquirt pages and look for the sensor they recommend for the Megasquirt. It is a standard GM sensor and pretty cheap. It is basically a resistor that changes the resistance as the temperature changes, just like the coolant one, but this one is faster to react. The resistance/temperature curves are probably shown there somewhere...

If you're running both cats and a otherwise stock setup, then forget the muffler. I took mine off last weekend, and it is maybe 1 or 2% louder...that's it.

WooHoo! I am now! At least the fuel part of it. I've still got a little tweaking to the tuning to do, but it runs much better than the OE stuff. As soon as I can get the EDIS wheel connected, then I'll start working on that side of it. It's pretty easy. A weekend project if you buy a prebuilt MS.

All good info..though the SVX does not have cap/rotor/wires, it has direct ignition on each plug. Tranny issue is probably the biggest worry, but add a good cooler, and it should survive. In the SVX pictured below, the guy survived. Yeah they are crashworthy...extremely so. Just a note, you can replace the tranny with a legacy one if you change the rear differential to match. 5-speed swaps are also common and not incredibly difficult. Good luck, and check out http://www.subuaru-svx.net/forum for the most SVX info you'll find.

Have a picture of it? I've made many molds in my business and at work, and could definately help you out. -Steve

Not sure if this helps too much....but I have a spider N/A manifold and it does not have that piece on it.

Got Mine yestereday! Now I have sitting...ready to install on my XT Turbo: 1. Spider Intake 2. XT6 throttle body 3. Megasquirt 4. EDIS Parts 5. Wiring harness 6. Coolant and air temp sensors Oddcomp - you ran everything through the factory harness? Sounds like a nice clean method. I have the complete harness from RS Autosport, so I'm debating which way to go.... Oh and hey..I'll need a IGN and Fuel MAP. Wanna send me one? Can't wait to say goodbye to that f'in flapper door and old style manifold

Think that'd work on a 86 XT Turbo EA82? It has the serpentine type belt, not a V-belt. Would the pulleys swap? Looks like a good upgrade/replacement! Nice work.

There are a couple of small wires with flat metal prongs on the end of them in the area of the diag. plugs. They should be wrapped up in electrical tape. These are the ones you use to plug into the diag. port. The Subaru tranny filter is a factory campaign item. Wouldn't hurt to replace it. I believe it is the same filter as used on the legacy 4EATs. This and much more info can be found at www.subaru-svx.net/forum

You forgot about MSnEDIS - where you get the best of both. Megasquirt to run the Fuel injection and EDIS to run the timing. The MS controller makes them both work. Coming soon to my XT-T

Yes, you can change them in the car. You only need a basic set of tools, and the gasket set to do it. As mentioned elsewhere...the head bolts stripping is always a possibility. I've done 2 now and not stripped one yet, though. My secret is to clean the threads on the bolts very well, and to clean out the holes in the head as well as you can with some spray cleaner stuff, then to thread a oiled bolt all the way in and out of each hole to make sure it goes in smoothly all the way. Repeat the in/out with the oiled bolt until it will go in with just your fingers turning it. When you do it this way, all the torque you are applying is going into the clamping and not into pushing crap out of the way. Good luck!

When this happened to me, I just drilled out the hole and retapped it to 1/2"-20, which is a fine thread 1/2" bolt, fairly similar to the factory one but a little bigger. You also have to run a 1/2" drill through the hole in the head. I reused the Subaru washer, but drilled it out too to 1/2". If it's already in the car, then I think I'd start cursing loudly....

Sounds like it might be an intake manifold gasket leaking coolant into the intake airstream. How much water are you going through? Worse possibility is a cracked head leaking through the usual cracks that form between the valves. Either one of these problems would use coolant and still have decent compression readings.

Here is one you can recurve as often as you like: Megajolt lite - will control the ford edis system http://picasso.org/mjlj/ Or you can go full bore, and do the fueling and ignition w/ megasquirt & EDIS http://www.jsm-net.demon.co.uk/megasquirtnedis/index.html or here for lots of MS info: http://www.msefi.com/ Soon...I will be running this on my XT. Goodbye crap MAF flapper door, goodbye broken vacuum advance canister distributor woot!

Hey!! No giving up now! I'm getting ready to gather all the necessary parts for the EDIS and MS setup.... Of course...if you do want to give up, shoot me a PM and maybe I'll buy your stuff

If it's a XT GL-10, then the ECU is in the trunk, under the rear shelf on the right side