4RnrRick

Picture 5, Front seats installed and cleaned up. Also the center console. I foud out that Castrol Super Clean also works awesome on the interior..... Picture 6, Then to swap out the dash pads I had to remove everything out of the dash. What a PITA!!!!! That made for a long night. Picture 7, But the finished product was well worth it. No all I need to do is get a real stereo in there and get my CB installed. It actually turned out better than I expected. I also got a change to actually drive it a bit but I need to find those oil leaks pronto because it apear to be dripping onto the exhaust and burning off. What a freak'n mess. I'm Soooo tempted to just pull the engine and reseal it but I haven't totally deiceded yet. I still need to get my previous project sold so I can devote the garage to this project and have some CASH to work with. Anybody want to buy my 83 Toyota xtra cab?

Well heres what I got to work with and the progress I've made so far...... Oh if I do Bob it I figured I can take up to 13" pretty easy and then I will have to rebadge it as a Stubaru..... Picture 1, its a 87 SPFI D/R 5 speed wagon. Pretty bad shape on the inside but its got the drivetrain I wanted. Also the engine needs to be sealed up because I hate leaking cars! Picture 2, Its a 85 with no engine or tranny but its has good interior and adjustable struts. So its just a donor part car. Picture 3, what the interior looked like after I removed the seats? Yuck.... Nothing a little elbow grease and cleaners can't handle. BTW I even found a black film canister with some old weed flakes in it. :-\ Picture 4, Carpet and rear seats installed!

Heres some silly ones that I just came up with... Super Ultimate Bad@$$ Automobile Ready4 Use Severly Underestimated Bitch'n Automobile Ready4 Use Secret Unidentified Basic Automobile Ready4 Unvailing

Anyone got any good Subaru Acronyms? I can't think of any... If you don't know a Acronyms is, its like "Adidas" - All Day I Dream About Sex..... Found a neat website fo acronyms but no Subaru's on it. http://www.acronymsearch.com/index.php But heres some examples it had: TOYOTA The One You Ought To Avoid [joke] TOYOTA Toughest One Yet On Two Axles [joke] FORD Fix Or Repair Daily [joke] FORD First On Race Day [joke] FORD Fill Oil Reservoir Daily [joke] jeep Just Everything Expensive Please [joke] Jeep Just Expect Every Problem [joke] Jeep Just Empty Every Pocket [joke] DODGE Dont Overdrive Gutless Engines [joke] DODGE Darn Old Dirty Gas Eater [joke] DODGE Drips Oil, Drops Grease Everywhere [joke] CHEVY Chevy Cheapest Heap Ever Valued Yet [joke] CHEVY Chevy Cheapest Heap Ever Visioned Yet [joke] KIA Know It All [slang]

My 85 and 87 look identical........

WCSS - ???????

SPFI - Single point fuel injection MPFI - Multi Port fuel injection hatch - hatchback wagon - stationwagon S/R - Single Range Transmission LSD - Limited Slip Differential MAF - Mass air flow meter IAC - Idle Air Control valve DL - Lowest model GL - Mid model GL10 - Highest model Pug - Pugeot (euporean car) HVLA - Hydraulic Valve Lash Adjuster <- Hope thats right Is this post just for abrrevations, or a general subie FAQ?

Might be easier and cheaper to just have it shipped with a frieght company........

Thanks for the info.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1671

Anybody know what a factory service manual says? {edit} Thanks........ I'm getting a lot of lifter noise in mine and I'm just curious as to where to start on it. I'll probably start with the oil pump seal but still not sure......

Well on my new Subie, I've been having problems with getting it to idle correclt. the car would start and if you didn't touch the thottle it would rev up to 1500 rpm ish and then just slowly pucker out. sounded like the car was either getting sufficated or just slowing running out of fuel. You could also start the car up and hold the RPM's at 3000 rpm but it would slowly do the same thing if you didn't keep feathering the gas peddle. Also no engine codes where showing up. Well I finally figured it out! I pulled out the book and started checking the MAF. Well it wasn't coming out to what the book said it should have spec wise so I removed the MAF from the car and I found a weed seed stuck in the little passage under the MAF. YES thats right a weed seed. You know those weeds that you blow on and make a wish as a kid... well one of those was stuck in there...... So I pulled that out and it car ran fine! (except how the lifters are rattling but thats another issue to deal with) Whoohoo! So that is probably one of the stranger things that has happened to any of my vehilces..... funny how suck a simple think and really screw things up.

What is the oil pressure gauge suppose to read at idle? How about 3000 rpm? BTW I have analog gauges....

I figured for the heck of it I would e-mail Aussie Locker and see if they wanted to persue a design for a subaru. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick *******" To: sales@offroadlockers.com Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 1:24 PM Subject: Hello - Lockers for Subaru? > Just curious if you guys have thought about making a locker for the rear (or front) of a Subaru. Many people are picking up these cars for cheap and modifying them for off road use. The subaru set up is front wheel drive on the street and locks the rear end in for 4x4. And on the Dual range Transfer case there is a dedicated Low range. I feel a rear lock 'AussieLocker' would be totally unnoticed on the street but would totally transform the car off road. Owners are currently welding their rear diffs and pulling CVs for street use. Many owners would be overjoyed to install a rear lock-rite and save this hassle of swaping Cv alxe ina and out when they want to go offroad. As an added bonus, the subaru rear diff is the same unit used in Datsun 510s. These Diff are similiar in size and shap as to what is used in the older Datsun/Nissan diffs. With one product you could be the sole supplier to 2 untapped enthusiast markets. Please feel free to contact me if you would like more information on the growing off road Subaru market, or if there's anything I can do to help you make a Subaru rear locker a reality. I've attached some links to website where offroad subaru ethusisted have gathered to talk about anythign Subaru. Might be a good source for seeing the actually intrest in such a product. For me, I'm particularly interesting in the 85-89 EA82 vehicles.....But anything is a start. > BBS Forums and Info Site: > http://www.ultimatesubaru.org > http://www.westcoaststompers.com/ > http://www.ausubaru.com/ausubaru/html/index.php > Subaru Aftermarket Manufactures: > http://www.ozified.com/ > http://www.ausubaru.com/byb/ > http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~colfam/ > http://www.twb.usmb.net/ > http://www.oregonoffroadsubaruclub.org/ <-web site currently down > Thanks Rick ******** ----- Reply ----- From: Bill [sMTP:bill@offroadlockers.com] Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2004 11:33 AM Subject: Re: Hello - Lockers for Subaru? Thank you for the detailed information Rick. We have our engineering resources committed to a development schedule that will take them through June 2005. At that time we will be looking at other diff opportunities and we will check out the market on the Subaru. Sorry that we cannot commit anything else at this time, but we will check it out then and we have this email in our follow-up. We appreciate your interest in the Aussie Locker. So I guess that COULD turn into someting......

I didn't think of routing the filter there.... Looks like a food idea.

I was refering to what type of filter setup is best for performance and 4wheeling. Not nessecarly that brands people perfer although its intersting to see what people like to use. My wheeling can range from anythign from Sand, Snow, Trail, Mud and Puddle jumping. So I need something that will keep the water out but air in...... I'm also someone that doesn't mind putting a few $$ to engine performance even though I know engine swaps are where you get the best bang for the buck. Oh Ialso the trail around here are typiclaly tight and brusshing so a big snokel (tree catcher) is out of the question.

So I'm curious what do you guys pefer for 4wheeling when it comes to a air filter and perfomance for a EA82? Stock Box / Cone / Snorkel?

The way I look at modifications is anything is possible with enough time and money..... But the headliner (I'm not good with interior) and getting the roof to be flat and smooth would suck.

Is there a listing that explains the different generations???

Sweet thats what I wanted to hear! If I run into that 1% part that I can't figure out because the online manual says one thing and the car is obviously different , I will get a hold of ya. Thanks

Okay I just bought my first Subie.... Well actually 2 subaru's. To make one good one and have lots of spare spares. 1987 EA82 SPFI D/R 5 speed Wagon. Its got some engine problems so thru my searching I found the Online Factory Service Manuals on http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 when I look at the EA82 manual it comes up as a 1989 manual. Where there any major differences between this 1989 manual and my 1987 car? I won't bore you will the details of the problems unless I can't figure it out. BTW - I normally would just purchase the correct manual but I want to start tearing into it over the weekend...... And I've already borrowed a 'Hanyes' and a 'How to Keep Your Subaru Alive' books from Mudrat79 to help out with the problems. Just the more information the better.

Thats funny..... I've never heard of such a thing around here. Just get a buddy to help you take your rims over to Walmart in another vehicle and say you are working on a dune buggy and you need some offroad tires..........

Nice Pictures..... Looks like fun.

With the type of body modifications I've done to other vehicles, I've learned the hard way when it comes to welding sheet metal. What I do is I weld with a 110 Mig with 75/25 Ar/O2 mix and .023 solid wire. you MUST prep the sheetmetal by grinding all the paint off. If the sheetmetal is rusting, you might even have to cut that all that crap out and replace it with good metal. a flapper wheel on a die grinder works great for prep work. Then make very small tack welds along the piece to be welded. Say every 3 inches or so. then I go back and weld 1/2" at a time down the seam starting at every other tack weld. And when you weld all you are doing is a bunch of tack welds just slightly overlapping the last one. that way you get that pretty little circles and good penitration. on sheetmetal you typically can't keep the weled on for more than 1/2 second otherwise you will blow thru. This will keep the heat down. Also you might have to take several 10 minute brakes to let everything cool down to a uniform temperature. Basically you just have to conrol the heat.