fluffy

Just wondering if high oil pressure is a bad thing or not? I've got an 86 GL 3dr that when I drive in the cold the oil pressure guage goes up nearly to the top, to around 5 on the scale. I'm wondering if this indicates a problem?

Well, no shag seats for me yet, but I had the front brake calipers replaced today, since the drivers side was seized and I couldn't get to work... $360 later......... well, you get the picture

Well, Crappy Tire had rebuilt alternators, and a $75 trade-in on the old core... So for $103 cdn I got a new alt and it fixed all my electrical problems. Now all I have left to do is brakes, muffler, and fix that damn leaky windshield! Oh, and mount a TV in the dash, install an 8000 watt stereo, re-upholster the seats in shag, put a spoiler on, and completely rice it out... Just kidding...

Well, almost a week and still no answers from anybody... Another question though, does anyone know where I can get a cheap alternator in the Sidney/Victoria area? That's Sidney BC, Canada, BTW... Lordco quoted me $155.95 for a Bosch rebuilt alternator, and that's with a member discount too. Thanx

Well, it seems Flint Motors in Sidney don't do a great job on Subarus. After two tries, the choke still doesn't work. Apparently I'm supposed to pump the gas twice before I start, and the car's supposed to go up to 2000 rpm, and when I push the gas again, it's supposed to go to a fast idle. Now, the fast idle looks the same as a regular idle, but the whole 2000 rpm thing doesn't happen... Just so I know, is this process pretty normal for a 1.8l EA82 carbie? Btw, the carb was rebuilt a year ago. Is this a long time, or not? Thanx!

Well, I can smell exhaust quite often when I drive the car, so it is a bit of a concern... As for the junkyard alternator, that was the plan. Well, that or a rebuilt one. Crappy Tire has them for $50 or so...

Agreed. My blue GL 3dr is staying pretty much stock. NO RICE FOR ME!

Well, I broke down and took the car to a repair shop (at Dad's expense, thankfully) and found that my main problem was the choke being seized off, as well as a vacuum leak making the engine run lean. Also, one of the diodes in the alternator is fried, so I'll need to replace that soon. They also found that since my muffler doesn't have a tailpipe, the exhaust is going under the bumper and getting sucked inside the car, so every time I drive the car, I'm breathing exhaust fumes... They gave me an estimate for exhaust work to the tune of $1045.74 cdn, though that replaces everything from the engine down. The guy said I only need a new muffler, but I only get a warranty if the whole thing gets done. Considering they quoted me $140 for an OEM muffler, I think I'll just clamp on a decent aftermarket muffler (not Crappy Tire). 2 questions this time around; should I try to replace the diode in the alternator on my own, or should I just go and buy a rebuilt alternator? Also, what would be a good muffler to use on this car? I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, though I'd like something a little better than stock. Thanks to all... Simon

Well, I replaced the ignition coil 2 days ago with a "Super Stock" performance coil, and the difference is noticeable. The engine misfires much less than it did before with the defroster on. It still does misfire a bit, though, and I did notice the car jerk a bit whenever I switch the highbeams on going uphill, which I think is kinda weird... Anyway, that problem is almost resolved, and I'll try grounding the alternator whenever I have time next. A quick question to Matt though, is which terminals on the alternator should I connect to ground?

How thick should it be? I can get some 10ga power wire for car amps from work (that's about 4-5mm), but should it be as thick as the wires to the battery or spark plugs?

Well, I finally got around to converting that pic of the speedo for you, Matt... Here it is! Btw, if anyone can help me with my car problems still, that would be great. The main problem is with misfiring with a load on the electrical system (especially the rear defroster. it has a few dead lines, but I don't know if that makes a difference)

It feels good... My girlfriend says the car doesn't have a slit throat anymore (ya know, "feeding" the car... she's kinda weird with cars...)

Well, I got some pics for you Matt, the only thing is theyre BIG! I borrowed a 5-megapixel camera from work, so they're bloody huge pictures. If you want the full-size pics I can send them like that, but they're over 2 megs a picture. I'll scale them down if you want though... Btw all, here's a pic of the old filler pipe vs. the new one. The fatter pipe on the old one is supposed to be 2 inches longer, but those 2 inches broke off when I pulled it out. You can probably see the remains of the mounting screws in the top of the pipe too, as I had to drill 2 of them out.

Well, I did the filler neck yesterday (put some rust proof paint on it too), and don't plan on exerting myself too much right now. I might do the tank in the future, but I need to make more money first. Do you mean that I should clean the tank, or replace it? As for rust, yes there is some rust on it. The trunk has a dent in it, about an inch by 3 inches, and that's mostly rusted. The rest of the car though only has maybe 3 or 4 rust spots the size of a pencil eraser. The wheel wells have a bit of rust though, particularily the one the filler runs through. Other than that, for the $1000 cdn I paid for it, the body only has scratches and "parking lot dents" on it. The engine is pretty clean too... For pictures though, I think I can borrow a camera from work. I sell electronics, including cameras, and a couple of the other guys there have borrowed them before. *edit* btw, the filler neck cost me $65! Too much for a chunk of metal, imo... At least I found another hubcap there...

I had the same problem with my 86 GL 3door, and it was the spark plug wires on the distributor end. The center one (the one that feeds them all) was popped up and not really connecting. I had been playing with the distributor a few days earlier, and it took that long to start a problem, since I didn't plug that wire in properly. The connector was at an angle in the rubber boot and didn't go into the socket.

Thanks for the info, Matt, I've changed the subject to say 3-door now. Thanks for the compliment, btw, and I'll try and pick up some film tomorrow, as I don't have a digicam yet As for the fuel filler pipe, I ripped that all apart (had to take the wheel off too) and clamped a tin can around it. It doesn't leak anymore, but I'll still try and pick up a new fill pipe tomorrow. I think my power problems have something to do with the amount of rust in the fill tube, since some might have fallen into the tank... I hope not, but who knows...

Well, I pulled the wheel and shroud off my car, and the filler tube is completely rotten. I need a new one. I'm scouting a few wrecking yards today, but if anyone has a filler tube that would fit, let me know. I'm in Duncan BC, though I could probably travel a little ways... Thanks

Well, I've been the proud owner of an '86 GL 3-door "Sport" since May, but for the last month or two, I've been having some problems. It's the EA82 1.8l carbie, btw... The biggest problem, and also the most recent, is that I can't actually fuel up. Every time I try to put fuel in, it just comes out the overflow. I tried using a piece of copper wire to feel around in the filler tube, but it didn't feel like anything was clogging it. I've only got about 1/8 of a tank left, so I'm not sure I could make it to the nearest good Subaru mechanic. Another problem is that the rear suspension is very creaky, but only in dry weather. With all the recent rain, it's perfectly silent. Shocks probably need replacing, as the car rides a little low in the rear. I've been having a couple engine problems too, particularily hesitating from a stand-still. I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor already, and the plugs are good. The battery is 6 months old (taken from my girlfriend's dead Camry), the ignition wires look good too, and the fuel and oil filters are only 4000 clicks old. I changed the oil when I replaced the filters too... The tach jumps around quite a bit on a cold start or if I have the fan running, and the engine misfires when the rear defroster is on (and sometimes the fan). The alternator puts out enough juice, since volts are up around 13-14 when driving and solid at 12 at an idle, so I think it might be the ignition coil. Those are the main problems, the lesser ones being crappy speakers and squeaky brakes, though I know what to do about those. One kinda funny thing though is that I thought I needed a new muffler since mine rattles a lot, but after lifting the car and looking under it, the muffler looks fine. Beating it a bit with a rubber mallet though I found the rattle is in the air heater, and something (a rock or tool of some kind - amazing how many sockets I found in the car) is rattling in the pipe or heater. This means I have to remove the entire exhaust system to get whatever it is out of there. So if your muffler sounds like a marble in a tin can, beat it with a mallet! Anyway, if anyone knows a possible solution (or wants to fix my car for me; I'm in Duncan, BC, btw...) please let me know, as I'd love to get my car fixed up. I've posted a pic of my GL so everyone can drool on it's sexy contours (actually it's not too bad. hardly any rust) Thanks all, and sorry for the long read...