ByTheSea

Thank you Emily, I fired it over this morning and without the distraction of traffic and my grandson it sounds like the oil running low might be coincidental. I'm tearing it down to check the timing components. It sounds like my first Loyale. Lots of ticking and runs but badly. Not much power and when I drove it off the road it was stalling off throttle. Maybe I have a little luck and jumped timing without interference. Thanks for the info. My last build was a long time ago when Moosens and I tried our hand at TSD rally. Good advice on the beater. That was the 95 Imp that she tried to drive with the Y pipe on the ground and NO oil as I was waiting for the new dipstick to arrive. That taught me to secure keys while working on things.

Tried searching but unclear whether I can swap in a long block or just the short block. The 05 has 220K but a clean body and the Sound System/HVAC is still great so I'd like to keep it but on the cheap, especially as this is my daughters second oil starvation incident so I'd rather not shell out $1500 on top of labor when I have two solid running 251 motors that don't leak.

Hi Kids, After a hiatus I am back for some advice. My baby boy now/did drive a 5mt 98 ob wagon. Clutch is toast, viscous coupler too but that's another day cause it works. I just dug out the PAECO kevlar kit I ordered in 2000 for my old BKB lifted EA that was incorrect. It's 7-7/8" disk, 7/8" 21 spline shaft. So looking around I think it may be originally meant for an ea-82 FWD but it's been a while. Any chance this would fit the 98 MT? Merry Xmas and thanks in advance, Brad PS I know to search but I'm really old and lazy and haven't found the answer in two hours. Really should stay current, LOL. "NEVER miND"

Hi all, Naturally the imprezza I'm working on has no panel cover or owners manual. Can someone enlighten me as to which fuse is the horn and also what are the functions of the fuses in the top row as 4 get no juice. This is a 95 Imprezza 2.2 AT sedan. A scan of a cover would be ideal. Thanks. Brad

Top of a SPFI set-up that holds the injector onto the throttle body. Please donate my skittle to relief of human suffering in your local area

So there goes my third engine. Pulling the grade on the Sagamore Bridge when the temp guage shot up and the death rattle started. Stupid $400 car only ran for 40K. LOL. Now I have a legitimate excuse to change out the 2.7 rather than have to reseal and do belts. The funny part is I that managed to recruit the AAA girl into the USMB. Guess the wagon goes back on the road finally. Not a problem now that summers here. The moral of the story is don't go really fast on a really, really hot day with a bubbling cooling system. See everybody in August when I get back from the Cape. Peace, Brad

I guess I should read New Gen more. I almost slammed my ratty XT6 into the back of one of these Tribeccas on the Mass Turnpike today. I guess seeing what looked like a Chinese pagoda waddling down the high speed lane on wheels caused a momentary lapse in attention to closure rates. To me it looked an awful lot like the V90 in the next lane over, except for the pagoda thing.

Check for any signs of metal dust betwean the cone washer and hub on the end of the cv. If the splines are worn in the hub or axle it can move back and forth slightly and over time will get loose because the cone washer wears away. If that is the problem replace the axle and hub.

Look like the big rump roast turf tires they use on golf course chem trucks. Hmm?

Are they the same as ea82? They look the same but I don't have an ea82 out to measure at the moment. Thanks, Brad

[quote name= We have to register and insure EVERY vehicle' date=' whether it's driven or not, within 10 days of taking possession. If you retire a vehicle, it's illegal to keep an unregistered vehicle for more than 30 days, even on private property. We are exempt from any emissions once a vehicle is 15 years or older. Newer vehicles are tested every other year for emissions. ,,, Glass must be intact with no cracks,,,.[/quote] That registration issue might be specific to your town. The two towns I own in allow one unregistered vehicle per property kept "out of doors" but there is no limit to what you can have inside. I get around the issue by keeping any car I don't want to register & insure as a "homemade trailer". This costs twenty dollars per year for the plate. The building inspector laughed pretty hard when he came and checked the row of "trailers" after my neighbor complained. It's just a simple declaration required to document things so you can take the plate off at any time and it's a car again. Glass can be cracked,,,but only if you can argue well. The cracks just can't be in certain areas like the sweep of the wipers. My Chevy has a bad weld that snaps glass in cold weather so every year I beat the ears off the inspector to save the price of a new glass. The worst thing now in MA is that they added a "Vehicle Height Altered" visual test to the inspection to cut down on big lift kits.

I tried those but they pumped out huge amounts of water in a liquid form. A municipal water system runs pretty high water pressure(65 psi in mine) so the things probably are not designed to mist at the low pressure of the Ford washer pump I used. I gave up the whole idea because it would have cost to much for me.

I bet it's the late 88 then. I took a glance at the diff tag but it was super nasty and the ground was muddier than ell. Maybe I'll swoop on it after all as my GF only drives autos and she'd be better in the RX than her FWD Loyale this winter,,, maybe (lol, her foot is pretty but made from concrete). I have a stock 3.70 LSD and a 3.90 VLSD on the shelf so no problem there. It's a pretty solid car and the oil and coolant were clean and full so unless that was an attempt to fool prospective buyers it might be okay head wise. Thanks all PS Good to be back Baja, been lurking but just to busy to play with my toys this year. Still driving all old Soob daily but all my projects are on hold till my butt unpuckers from the divorce LOL. Got the kids so maybe I can sell em to raise some funds

Found a white 88RX coupe but it's auto. Was that an option or something changed later by the owner? PS. Kid at the junkyard scrappped the tank, cat and batt cause "It ticked!" so I may buy it and install the parts from my yard queen.

I am the Sofa King of Embarrased. Paul, I could have sworn I saw you as I cranked out of the Charlton MA Turnpike Plaza. It actually started to click seeing the "Husband waitintg for family" looking guy with the tan 80s wagon equipted with what could only be described as a giant white boil on the roof. It was too late to turn back when I got it all figured out but if you wondered who the balding guy in the green Imp sedan with a huge blue duffel on the roof,,,well that would be me with my kids/mom headed to the Cape. I thought I'd see you in a touring wagon or gl-10. How was camping? My 10 man dome almost blew down at the Cape. Huge wind and rain one day. Sitting right on Cape Cod Bay in front of a friends beach shack. Brad

If it's the same set-up(relatively) as the NA motor then doesn't the sensor tell the ecu the motors operating temp to control mixture ratios? Mine failed and was showing resistance values to the ecu that suggested the motor was encased in a block of ice when it was at full operating temp. Caused some serious mileage issues but honestly I don't know whether the super fat mixture caused the motor to run hotter. Could a failed thermosensor be caused by excess temps,,,how hot can the water in a 82T get before things go pop. Probably not much hotter than the sensors meant to run at routinely but again I'm no expert on turbo motors. Since the ecu is meant to see the correct resistance value from that sensor to determine mixture ratios it seems like a starting point would be to test the sensor and replace it if it's bad. Ignoring a known fault makes it hard to rule it out as the cause of other problems.

"The problem I'm up against is compression of the shock, if I jack up one rear wheel the other side just lifts up. The Buggy is too light to compress it's own suspension. I can lift it with one hand:eek: " Maybe look into the idea of cross linked air shocks combined with some motorcycle coil-overs if it's really that light. When you compress one side it causes the pressure in the other to rise keeping that wheel down on the ground. Brad

Come check out the Pioneer Valley in Western Ma Any given morning at either of my kids schools you'll likely have one directly in front of you or behind you at the drop-off spot. My GF, Mom and I all drive one each. Two towns over in Northampton(a rainbow hotspot) the things are Uber PC and you can't swing a cat round your head without it smackin into a woman in a new gen model. I counted seven at a set of lights one day.

Probably worth finding the screwdriver chunk before starting up. Of course the small piece of punch that broke off in mine didn't seem to matter but I'm not positive that it went in. It was a little sudden. To get the crank pully off you could use my patented method of putting a 1/2" Craftsman drive on the deep socket and whaling the end with a rubber mallet. It may spring back and someone once suggested it was unsafe but Iv'e been using that technique for a quile and still have all my teeth intact. The principle is that you can't get all the mass of the crank pistons and flywheel moving suddenlly( An object at rest tends to stay at rest ) but the energy has to go somewhere so the nut spins while the crank mostly stays still. Proceed with caution. LOL

Hmmm? Ken says no Zuki stuff, I doubt it's solid axles. Since the biggest hard rock issue is articulation I'll toss a wacky guess. Did it finally occur to someone to articulate the IFS and IRS i.e. make a multi link set-up out of the front subframe and rear torsion tube which can be released to full motion when off road?

Fire insurance + Gasoline + Flame is the only fullproof answer. Cleaning out the nests and spraying Fabreze into the windshield cowl intakes will improve things in the short run but not for more than a few weeks.

ROFL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PS I think I still have pics on my old comp of Flash and Buckets epic trip across America in the Superman Subie. Flash is the guy who calmy told me to try starting the car after I spun out at the Ice race and didn't notice that I stalled it.

Last night my girl called from work because a guy who works at the yard I go to was looking for me. Seems that he and a buddy just ran down to Maryland and scored a bunch of early 70s Cushman trucks. He's got a nice running brat that collapsed from rust so the engine tranny combo is going into a Cushman ASAP. I'll post pictures when they finish. This should be fairly sick even by USMB standards.

What exactly do you need? I'm breaking up one right now but it's rusty in all the usual spots. Mostly good but rusty down low like most in the East.

Anybody know the set-up for the high beam switch on an xt6? The highs come on when I pull back the lever but won't stay on when I release it. I know they are supposed to flip flop with each pull but these don't. Is there a relay or do I need to replace the switch itself? Thanks, Brad