ByTheSea

If you want to be high tech and never trash another axle( Iv'e done that once and never again ) you can get a large three jaw puller from any of the cheap discount stores like Ocean State Job Lot . They are low quality from China but work fine for the occasional DIYer. You use that to pull the outer hub off the axle stub rather than beating the stub inward with a hammer, which can cause the end of the stub to collapse where the cotter pin holes are and that makes the threads NFG. Also on the installer tool,,,great tool. putting axles in is easy when the axle and bearings are old but with new bearings and a reman shaft it can be pretty sticky to use the "screwdriver behind the nut" technique. "God gave us thumbs to use tools creatively" "Tim Taylor :The cost of the right tool will eventuallly be made up by what you save on band-aids" "Al Borlin"

If nobody objects on purity principals there are all kinds of possibilities using adapters but they can get pricey. Picture a Muncie SM420 granny tranny with a 203 reduction section a dana 300 twin stick case behind that. On the LADA thing. I saw a page featuring a conversion. Guy put a 5cyl Benz diesel into one. Supposed to bolt right up so if you had the tranny as well and wanted a diesel Ru,,,

On a slightly different note,,,Has anyone succesfully used the Imprezza front struts on the XT6 Knuckle? I just test fitted one the other day but the Imp has the cam bolt set-up for camber adjustment. I was going to have the spindles redrilled a bit to allow the full function of the camber adjustment. For now I'm just running the XT6 stock strut. PS. Anybody know which Strut to use in the rear of an AWD XT6 when converting from air to conventional suspension? The XT6 2WD Rears I used make it sit rump roast end high. Looks pretty mean but hard to park.LOL

Car is a 95 Imp 2.2 NA auto trans 125K. It recently started to backfire when accelerating from low rpms but only after high rpm use. I'm goigt to do the plugs and wires. Is there any major issue other than that to look at?

Just a thought. The week point in the t-case mod seams to be in running full time high stress through the stub axles of the stock diff. Riding along I thought of the fact that a Vette puts many hundreds of HP through an independant rear diff. Maybe a 410 set up with some custom axles would be worth investigating.

A little off topic but what is the donor vehicle fr the cable shifter set-up? And nice job BTW Brad

Nice job Troy, Glad to see your'e still pushiung out the boundaries. Hows the Justy holding together? Brad

There was a 4.11 FT-D/R Leone tranny here a few years back. It was built by a shop in Colorado for MileHighSube(Think thats the name) from parts of a FT a D/R and Legacy trans. I can be done but I never got the name of the builder out of him. I don't think he's still on the board but someone might have a lead.

Paul, Any decent battery should work fine. The alt is the biggest issue. As mentioned if you plow you need full heater fan, wipers lights all the time. And window down so your face doesn't bake from the defroster, LOL. My 9' Elect/Hyd plow recently flattened a battery below the point of function(the relay won't function at a certain point) in ten minutes plowing when the alt went down.

It never hurts to be sure your battery terminals and clamps(the things that hold the wires onto the battery) are clean and have good contact. In winter your starter works harder on the cold motor and draws more current. Also as soon as you get the thing going you probably crank up the heater blower for the defrosters while the cars idling and not making much lectricity(alternators don't work at idle most of the time). This causes the charging system to have to replenish the electricity used in that first brief period and when you rapidly charge a battery it gives off gases which cause corrosion of the terminals. Iv'e had a subaru competely fail to crank(not even a click) and after cleaning the green crap off the terminals it fired right up. Anyway good luck, Brad

It never hurts to be sure your battery terminals and clamps(the things that hold the wires onto the battery) are clean and have good contact. In winter your starter works harder on the cold motor and draws more current. Also as soon as you get the thing going you probably crank up the heater blower for the defrosters while the cars idling and not making much lectricity(alternators don't work at idle most of the time). This causes the charging system to have to replenish the electricity used in that first brief period and when you rapidly charge a battery it gives off gases which cause corrosion of the terminals. Iv'e had a subaru competely fail to crank(not even a click) and after cleaning the green crap off the terminals it fired right up. Anyway good luck, Brad

Heres a classic, Golden Retriever, Late night, two mile straight-away, Chevy Nova doing 125 (so claims the girl in the passenger seat-I believe her),,,big impact!!! Car went home on the back of a wrecker with the radiator, fan and most of the dog wrapped around the 327.

Heres a possibility. The ea82 rear swing arm is attached to two pivots on the suspension tube. If you unbolted the inner pivot and moved it up and down it would change camber. Could it be as simple as making an adjutable mount for the inner pivot. The only two issues I can think of with this off hand are 1)The wheels won't move in a horizontal arc. They will travel in an arc thats is as far off horizontal as the camber added . 2) The bushing on the outer pivot is going to take more abuse.

I cast one vote for the o-ring that seals betwean the cam case and head. I see that you replaced it but maybe it slipped out of position during install. Stupid things at the best of times. I just had to replace a cam case on a JY motor and the old o-ring had a profile like a baseball sitting on top of a soccer ball. Needless to say the clatter went away.

It's a small sampling; but, the two that went on my Loyale both had binding u-joints rather than loose so theres often no way to check for trouble without pulling the shaft out.

Hey Sucker King. Good thing you hollered. I have mine on the bench. I can box it and mail it tomorrow. Box the complete VLSD minus lube and get a weight and your zip code and I'll paypal you the difference betwean mine and yours. I assume you still just want the chunk. PM me your mailing address and well get this rolling. Don't email me. My account is crap from spammers and I'm letting it overfill for now to start sending them back bad address notices.

Hacksaw:D Bring extra blades:D You can saw right through the stub shafts if needed. Been there once. It sucked. And not only is penetrating oil flammable but also joint grease is flammable and smoky when heated sufficiently. Good luck!

I believe the guy who had the supercharged XT6 had Wisecos. Forged I think. Wiseco probably has em in the computer already. Wiseco was the hot set-up back when I was playing with 2 strokes.

So a fuel injection system is supposed to be able to run when off level unlike a carb. My thought is whether a SPFI could be mounted sideways ie throttle body opening is horizontal rather than vertical. This would allow the the vertical runners of the intake to be lengthened and increase low end torque. By turning the throttle body you can get many inches of added height without touching the hood. So would the spray pattern be affected significantly? The air flow would be the same. It still needs to turn a 90 degree angle.

No trip for Brad,,, Iv'e been sick all week and I drove 300 miles yesterday to wrench a front axle into my GFs car in a parking lot. It didn't make the flu any better. I'm spent! Hope you guys have a great time! Back to bed for me. Later, Brad

You should check the timing belts first. *MOTOR NOT TURNING OVER FOR SAFETY* Theres a rubber oblong inpection/slack adjuster access plug that you can remove and get a finger into to see if the belt is slack. There are two plugs. You want the one to the right of the crank pully(lowest pully in center of motor) as you look at it. Thats the most likely culprit. If the belt is good it's possible that the set screw fell out of the rotor but I'd expect it to turn at least fitfully when you crank if that were the case. If your disty actually siezed you'd hear some funky sounds when you crank as the belt jumps teeth trying to turn that frozen gear. Brad

Hassey, Honestly this is the last thing. I was last refering to your answer of Adams post. He used "stock location" as a reference to the relation of the body and motor. Your response to Adam is what I quoted. The motor doesn't move. I hope you can see where I got that idea though. Have a great night. See you in the rocks and dirt

DOH!!! Sorry to put a bee in your bonnet with my question. I just made the mistake of assuming that by "stock position" you meant where Fuji put the motor and tranny but what you meant by "stock position" was "stock position relative to the components I have just moved." LOL. As to whether I get it. I get it as often as I can Thats obvious. I am a parent after all Brad Winner in class of Pittsfield Winter Ice Trials Ex SCCA ProRally crew chief(once) Ex Mechanic of "I think I can Racing" 4 Time AMA Superbike Champions in Lightweight and Sportsman Classes Ex US Marshals Corner Worker Ex Off Road Tour Guide Current pain in the pa-tootie,,, ROFL.:wave: :wave: :wave:

Hassey, You lowered the suspension without droping the motor/tranny the same amount? When I look at my ea-82 I see that at rest the DOJ and CV centerlines are offset about 2". I just twisted a DOJ to full lock on my kitchen table and it allows about 8" offset total(but the cv has more room to play). If you lifted a ea-82 6" and kept the tranny in the same relative position to the body as stock you'd be running the axle right around full lock all the time. Anyway I'm assuming that ea-81 and ea-82 axles are similar. Do the DOJs and CVs hold up for you? Is the travel in/out on the DOJ sufficient?

Hassey, Again let me preface that I'm not suggesting your lift is a poor design. I was just interjecting my own thoughts on the threads topic. I called it the Hassey lift because I think most of us have seen pictures of your rig and it was the simplest label. Perhaps it would have been better to call it "Multiple Segmented Body Lift" type design. To clarify I'm not suggesting a variation on the BYB individual block design, but rather a variation on your subframe. The idea is essentially just like a regular truck frame comprised of two 2x2 rails. To this you weld individual sections of 2X2 channel. The long bolts go all the way through. The reason I like this idea is that you have a minimum number of welds in your frame rails and it's much easier to plate the joints with flat steel stock this way. As far as the bolts go I think 14 or 28 is moot because every intersection in either design is going to have shear at right angles to the shaft applied at the intersection of the two parts. I don't think it matters whether the two forces are applied to one bolt or two since they are applied in different places. This is for a 4" lift. For bigger lifts I'd want to use seperate bolts top and bottom. Heres a couple of cheasy MSPaint drawings to show what I was talking about. The arrows represent forces under braking etc. The red spray paint represents welds. Imagine those arrows as sledgehammer blows to the lift blocks and you'll see which will give first. Of course thats for front to back forces. In side to side yours is stronger.