ByTheSea

Downhill at 90 is interesting on the lift. The biggest single issue is that with a lift you'll run bigger tires. Wait till the first time you need to lock em up at freeway speed. YeeHaaaaaa!!!!!! Darn thing just keeps going. But don't hesitate to run a lift from PK or Brett. You will grow to love it. I'm a complete mother hen type with my kids and we run over 20K miles a year on a lifted 92 wagon and use it off road all summer in addition to rallyX and TSD rallies 6-8 times a year. I just got back from a trip. 200 miles down in 3 hours, beach riding all day and then 200 miles home.

I wonder how many people in Iclub have those adjustable plates. Maybe post over there to see if anybody can get the bearing # off one. Or e-mail cusco and tell em a story about bearing failure and can they steer you to a correct part number The hard part is certainly the bearing since it needs to resist thrust up,down and sideways. I'm guessing it must have a race welded underneath to keep the strut from dropping off. *EDIT* Just a thought. Are you planning to run these with stock struts? Seems like it's going to be awfully tight in there if you go for any negative camber. In my lifted ea-82 the spring is pretty near to rubbing as is. With coilovers it would be a cinch and maybe with stock ride height it will work also but prolly worth looking in the wheel well before spending. If you want positive then it's no problem.

Any chance that cloud of smoke you pumped out was the product of detonation? My SPFI ea-82 is starting to get weak rings and the blowby through the crank case venting into the intake tract causes oil build-up as well as making more detonation by raising the intake temps under extreme loads. I solved my problem by venting everything to a dump can and plugging the intake port. On the vac hoses popping off??? Is there a check valve at the vacuum port in the intake that keeps boost from entering the vacuum system? Seems to me there should be something else you'd be pressurizing the vacuum system every time the turbo was pumping. If there is a check valve could it be malfunctioning and causing the lines to pop off? Well those are my random guesses having never worked on a eaT.

Brian, This is a Normally Aspirated SPFI. The spray enters the intake just before the throttle body. The water spray is meant to help lower the cylinder head temps and control detonation. The other ways to do this are to add extra fuel, retard timing or reduce engine loads. Gasoline also does not compress, as it's a liquid. Motors work because the air/fuel mix is mostly air which compresses. If you add water to the equation in reasonable quantities it just vaporizes during ignition. If it's introduced as a fine mist it can actually help get more A/F mix into the cyclinders(denser charge=more go power). I just want to run cheaper gas while retaining enough timing advance to get off the starting line and enough power to go up hill at 80 mph Currently I have to run better gas but I only need it under extremes so most of the time it's wasted. The water would be for those hard moments only like hills and high revs. Water injection on normally aspirated cars is an old accepted concept. American car builders have used it on vehicles meant for the Mexican market as they used to be infamous for having really low octane gas down that way.

NAPA can get an XT6 alt rated 120 amps but it costs about $2 per amp plus core(stick a junkyard legacy in for core?)

I put a very ghetto water injection in my Loyale today and took it for a 200 mile test ride. Vehicle is a SPFI lifted wagon with 26.3 inch tires with Cut air-box, turbo cams, 2.25 cat back and accel coil with a fresh tune up, 22 degrees advance on 93 octane. The injection set up was a reservoir and washer pump from a 79 F-150 and the injector was a 1/8-1/4NPT barb with a 1/4 cap(the cap is a tight fit and I'd use a 3/16 if doing again). I drilled the cap with the finest wire bit I had and then peened it down to micro fine size. I couldn't get spray on the first try but I got a very fine stream. The whole thing plugged into the intake tract in place of the valve cover breathers which are in a dump can anyway(reduces intake temps in older motors suffering from ring blow-by like mine). Bottom line real world test was that the set-up flows too much water and doesn't aerate enough. I tried several very high rpm runs. I held 7000 rpms in first for about ten seconds but while the detonation was controlled well the motor got a little ragged and and started dropping firings(wetted plugs I bet). I tried again with bursts of water instead of a steady flow and it worked better till I got a little scared of losing the motor. The next run was on the highway. I ran up to 6000 RPM in third using burst again and had no problems. During these runs the car was loaded to full capacity with me, two kids, German Shepherd, two bench grinders, a drill press and my standard 75# tool box as well as clothes and wheeled toys(we were moving back from summer at the Cape). I'm going to see what I can do to get some aeration and maybe throttle the water down a bit with a valve inline. My other option is to buy a real nozzle from Aquamist. I'm also wondering whether I could get away with piggybacking a SPFI injector onto the MPFI circuit and going with a high capacity booster pump like a Bosch from the VW CIS injection. This would allow me to have an rpm adjusted flow rate set by system pressure. So anyway it's back to the drawing board for now.

Boz, I'm picturing something that only works at very low RPM like crawling or red lights. I slip my clutch a lot rather than fall out of the power band when starting out. It would be nice to mat it at 1000RPM and take off with authority. How much water it takes I don't know. I guess you'd have to calculate the calories your'e trying to extract from the exhaust flow to get a number on water consumption. I do know that racers wrap header pipes to keep temps up by a few percentage points and help flow speed. Regular water injection takes 10-20% of the fuel consumption figures if your'e really using it alot.

As a though. A Imprezza strut works in an XT6, XT6 5 lug swap works but theres a limited supply of donor cars, basic lift is at least three inches. Socket in an ea82 knuckle is 2.5"-3" deep. So Maybe instead of building a whole strut or a cumbersome plate we could just make a short tube with an extension out the top similar to the top of a leg/imp/XT6 knuckle. This would just be putting the spacer on the bottom but now you'd be able to use camber adjustable struts and you can order all kinds of set-ups from the rally people. Of course this does nothing for the issue of wheel travel but the biggest limit there is still the half-shaft so this would be good for the average lifted car but maybe not for the Rubicon machines.

Good points,,,mostly the water through the system shouldn't be a huge problem. Traditional water injection through the intake sends water as steam to the cat and exhaust system. The cat doesn't care and no rust occurs. I do think theres a question of whether the water would be steam before it hit the cat. I think it would be a huge thermal shock to dump liquid water onto the 1200degree catalyst mesh. I also don't see this working for turbos as cooling the exhaust on either side of the charger would translate to lag. Hope somebody tries this idea though. Someone smart and brave and resourcefull,,,Oh Skip,,,are you out there.LOL:D

Saw an interesting idea on the internet for personal watercraft. The idea is to inject water spray into the exhaust chamber. The cooling effect on the exhaust gasses effectively slows down the the pulses(hot gasses go faster in an exhaust system) which increases back pressure. The whole idea is to allow you to have increased back pressure on a free flowing system,,, like those loud pipes we all like. So as a practical matter you'd need an RPM switch with start/stop like the one from MSD used to safeguard running nitrous past the rev limiter and maybe two relays to sense "motor running and WOT" as well as a pump and nozzle etc.

Is this a 4wd??? If so is the driveshaft hitting the bottom of the shifter linkage. Maybe check the bolts securing the caliper to the knuckle. If loose it will clunk and at a point it will rub the inside of a rim especially in reverse. With 14" pug alloys it'll jam solid actually LOL

I'm guessing that your tuning is aimed at making max Hp up in the higher RPM ranges for aircraft. Those of us running big tires and off roading usually spend a lot of time running under 3K RPM where torque is sadly lacking Do you have any configuration suggestions to maximize the low end, which would have been, I suppose, failures from an aviation standpoint. Thanks, Brad

Hi Tim whats shakin??? I'm not sure of the brand offhand but I will try to look tomorrow as I have one stashed at the garage. It is a plain cardboard box with black and red lettering for what thats worth. Say hello to Vicky for me. Brad

Wheel bearings???Ball joint???

Hey all, If anyone is about to buy axles from a place that does custom work then it might be worth seeing if they would ship the guts out for cryogenic treatment before they assemble it. Diversified charges $1.65 each for parts under 4 oz and $5 per pound for non-specific stuff(which these are) so it would be probably $25 extra with shipping per axle to cryo the important parts. Still less than new SOA parts. PS See how easily I spend other peoples money to test my ideas PPS I use axles from NAPA and Autozone and they both suck equally but I am way too abusive with my driving.

You can make a cheap test light out of any bulb holder and a few feet of wire. If you want to be super ghetto pin the wires from your tester to the fuel pump wires with sewing pins This will let you see if the circuits working while sitting in the comfort of your drivers seat

Those long bolts that hold the subframe to the unibody are pressed in. Put the bolt vertical on a block of wood. Putt something like a deep socket just slightly bigger than the bolt head over the bolt head, pressing against the bracket and whack it with a hammer. This spreads the force all the way round the bracket. If you just support one edge on the bench it will just bend the bracket. The strut. As mentioned loose the sway bar bolt, spread the knuckle with a hefty screwdriver(think about the angle before you drive it in with the hammer or you'll be sorry) and push the knuckle down with your foot. I'm assuming you haven't taken the three bolts out of the strut top yet.

Just a few thoughts. The fuel pump should be energized briefly when you first turn the ignition on but it doesn't actually run continuously till the car is at least cranking over or running. There are two seperate circuits that can power the pump Do you have fuel pressure? If so then the pre-start circuit is working and the wiring to the pump as well as the pump are OK. The ECU does control the continuous operation of the pump once you start cranking the motor. Silly question would be whether your disty is plugged in because thats where the signal comes from that tells the ECU the motors spinning. So 1)Test for power and ground at the pump when you turn the key on(it only lasts a few seconds) 2)Test for power and ground with the motor crankin 3)Hotwire the pump to test function. If the pump won't spin try reversing polarity as they can get bound up with sediment and assorted crap. Reversing the power reverses the pump and back flushes it(takes a few cycles).

My Chicago Electric Power Mig 150 came from Harbor Freight. It runs well but there are issues. I replaced the plastic hose liner with a steel liner meant for a Lincoln to get smooth feeding as the plastic liner kinks too easily. Also you'll never find correct tips or nozzles at a supply house. There are some replacement hose/gun units you can get meant for other machines that are supposed to bring the CE units up to decent spec. Lastly they don't always have a provision for reversing polarity. In many situations you need the gun to ground (aluminum and core wire especially) not the ground strap. If I knew what I know now I'd buy something more main stream like the Lincoln or Hobart just to make it easier for parts but I got mine in trade. Also a gas kit and lots of practice are critical for an amateur to get good welds. And those cheesy little hand held shields are for the birds. A good helmet is an amazing thing. My Auto Darkening came from Napa under $200 and is great as it frees up my other hand to hold work pieces. Beware the welders tan. It can be intense :madder:

Sorry gotta say it,,,ROFL,,,been there myself though. There is only one TDC per customer. Russ's answer is valid. All the cylinders are linked by the crank so you can't screw it up if you time the valves as per Chilton/Haynes/FSM. Just gotta remember that TDC is not the correct position for the crank when timing valves

Also theres FROZEN ROTORS who will cryo anything you want by the pound as I recall. They see a lot of US Rally trade. They may be pricey though

Someone who has a EA82 flywheel handy can degree it for you maybe? If you take a soft tape measure or even some string you can get the total circumfrence(sp?) of the flywheel and the distance (around) betwean 0 degree (TDC) and the center valve timing mark. Then you get the circumfrence of your marked pully and calculate the ratio betwean them and apply that to the spacing etc etc,,, And yes when installed the cam sprocket marks point in opposite directions. Hope this helps