baccaruda

EDIT: take general disorder's anti dieseling solenoid first, i forgot about that! dieseling is when the car seems to keep running for a few strokes after you cut the power, and it sounds like what you're describing. it's caused by something causing the remaining fuel/air mixture to keep burning after the ignition system is shut down. sometimes it can be caused by carbon deposits in the cylinders, which store heat and can cause the dieseling; or it can be caused by timing issues although i don't know much about solving that. since your car will be carbed, you can try getting a can of seafoam and treating the cylinders with that.. run the car for like a minute when cold, to get the cylinders slightly warmed up, then pull the spark plugs out and inject a few oz. of seafoam into each cylinder, then rotate the crank pulley nut (22mm) clockwise for a few minutes to work the pistons and the seafoam up and down. after reinstalling the spark plugs, start the car (and don't worry about all the new white smoke, it's from the seafoam) and dribble some seafoam through the carburetor and through the brake booster vacuum line (instructions on the can). some people will dribble water into their carburetors, which will turn to steam during combustion, to steam clean the cylinders. too much water will take up too much space in the cylinders and catastrophically increase compression, and ruin a rod or valve or something. if you choose to use water, run the engine for a while afterward to make sure it all gets boiled off. you could also check the distributor timing but my bet is cylinder carbon deposits. if your car is an auto, shutting it off in gear will prevent the symptom of dieseling as the drivetrain will still be carrying a load and it will be too much for the afterignition to occur. good luck.

nicely done!

I had a non running gen 1 brat for a short while that had one of those funny toppers.. i remember it because it started in the middle of the sunroof mine's a gen 2 though. thanks.

I've been contemplating new shocks and struts for the brat.. I'm interested in putting EA82 rear coilovers on the back of my brat as well, and I'd perhaps be interested in using the honda accord front springs at that time for convenience. But it seems also that it might be too hard on the axles? what if I had the honda springs cut an inch or two? that would negate some of the lift problem but give more support in the rear too? I'm planning to add EA82 rear trailing arms and an XT6 sway bar later too.

a reseal on your oil pump might help a lot too. do a search for lifter cleaning as well.

how's it do idling with no load? pop out the injectors and check them for flow, or if carbed, look down the throat. skeet's car had a similar problem that was caused by a leaking gasket (vacuum leak) in the middle of the carb. I say it sounds like a vacuum problem or a fuel delivery electronic problem... good luck. what about that condenser thingy off of the coil? etc etc etc

try searching for mill supply.

my brat gets about 22-24 in the city and I have a leadfoot. i also haven't tweeked my timing for max performance yet (want to get the disty rebuilt first) I have a stock carb, 4speed, and exhaust, low topper and a fresh tuneup including accel coil and 8mm wires. I know I could drive it to get the higher averages in this thread if I chose to. I get substantially better mileage on the highway in range with the other figures here.

the RX trans will fit properly in an EA82 project. I think it only has clearance issues in an EA81 project. Sure, you can swap to 4WD as well. make sure you get a 4WD clutch. Get the entire rear suspension setup from a 4WD car and hang it under there. If it's an EA81 project you can use the EA82 rear suspension attached to an EA81 rear subframe (which has the torsion bars in it) if you alter the rear control arm bushing a little to fit in the smaller EA81 bracket. Miles Fox sez to chop and smooth a little off of the bushing and drill out the bracket for a larger bolt. You will be best off dealing with the driveshaft by having a custom one piece driveshaft made. It's too imprecise to drill for the two piece mounts by hand. And if you go to all this work and DON'T throw on some rear disc brakes, you should be slapped .. I would also add a rear sway bar from an EA82 (needs altered to fit an EA81). If you use the rear shocks from an EA82 on an EA81, you'll need a custom adapter to fit the top. feel free to slap ME if I missed or messed anything

hm. how close is (isn't?) the fit?

yes, their sides are much more snug and grip you better when driving aggressively, and they look cooler. unfortunately, my wagon is an 86 and the XT6 seats I have for it will require the modifications mentioned above. that's right, Chris, I still haven't put them in yet

seems to me that a nice compromise would be a little undershield, maybe using the cover's stock lower mounting locations. I wouldn't think you'd have much to worry about EXCEPT from undercar ricochets...

you know, i'm not one to take myself to seriously here but carbon fiber might actually be the way to go as far as ease of production. I would wish it didn't look so trendy though!

might be time to change the clutch. it is a manual, right? you can loosen the clutch cable a little to try giving it a little more grab for a while.

yeah, i was thinking it was a choice of road trip vs plane ticket. I say road trip!

Hey Kyle. give me a call: 509-263-3853. anyone else is welcome to as well..

there's also a sheet metal brace to be welded into the car to hold your weight as the plastic step itself isn't strong enough. check the stock step side to see.

ok, what i don't get is why ERIC ZAP had to go to NY to buy a subaru? or is that just how you plan to get home?

someone should link this to FARK, they'd love it. I'd recommend a couple more oil changes soonish, due to the salt. good luck!

try running the stop sign if you don't stop, no problem!

heh you could at least have given him this, GD: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?

i agree with everyone else

watch it or I'll make YOU the trunk monkey. you'd be perfect once i clone you. this is probably going to have to wait before I can make it take off as I don't even know where I'm moving to yet or for how long.

look for a new brake shop; i've never had to separate the hubs and rotors.

do you have the pad retaining shims in? the ones that are fitted around the caliper...?