baccaruda

I just swapped discs onto my brat and the pedal's softer than I like. How do you bleed the MC while it's in the car, and how do you bleed the HH?

I just put rear discs on my 83 brat yesterday! it's easy. you need calipers and rotors (and new pads, and turn the rotors perhaps), backing plates, and hard lines. the hard lines you need are the ones off the soft hose on the caliper that run 8 inches up the rear control arm. the hard part if you're junkyarding will be finding soft lines that aren't cut. It sounds like you might have skipped getting the hard lines. Good parts stores have bulk hard line; take a caliper with you to make sure the fittings are the right size, and get a line that's about 8 inches long. You can bend it gently by hand to tailor the shape, just don't kink it. good luck.

I'm not sure about the sedan to threedoor interchange, but a bumper from an 87 or later sedan will be more solid than the 85-86 sedan. they are much sturdier. same with the front bumper. I'd go that way.

AAAAARGH thanks craig!

I'll be going to Eugene next weekend to check out the college and the town with a friend of mine. I don't know if I'll be able to check out the rallye on saturday but it might be nice.. I'm interested in a heads up for good camping spots close to or in Eugene as we're going for a tent budget instead of a hotel budget. DNR campgrounds or anything like that nearby? thanks!

Doing the rear disc swap on my brat monday! Also need to do the front brakes on it as well. I have some pre turned front rotors for my 86 T-wagon and some new pads too. Will they work for my brat? thanks!

screen's a cool idea for the box chop. Someone a while ago compared chopping the box bottom to installing an aftermarket style intake and cone filter. I recall reading that chopping out the bottom of the box worked just about as well, because the only kind of air it got was cold air from under the car. recall that the bottom of the airbox is level with the middle of the engine, and the only way for air to get into the engine bay is through the grille and radiator or from *under the car*.. right up into the chopped out airbox! I read a comparison on airfilters a bit ago (might have been on www.bobistheoilguy.com ) and the K&N style didn't filter nearly as well as a paper style filter.

hi Tim.. thanks for the correction! I remember the race now. I wouldn't say the heating/freezing is needed either, but I'm under the impression that it makes it easier to tap in..? oh well thanks.

If you've just got a half inch to go, then the trans input shaft isn't lining up with the pilot bearing. I use two jacks for dealing with a clutch install. Jack up the trans just a little bit and then jack the engine to match angles.. then put a breaker bar and 22mm socket on the crank pulley. Try and wiggle that back and forth a few inches while wiggling the engine into place. Growing a third arm or having a friend over will help with all this. sounds like you're almost there! (did you buy new clips for the throwout bearing?)

Emily from CCR might have some good input here... It is possible that the gen 3s are "always" in better shape because they're younger and less likely to have as much use on them, but they ARE different at least in the sense that the EA82 stamp on the bottom has changed. Why change the stamp only?

I think that site was put together by someone who owns a subaru dealership; i've seen (one like) it before. It's really cool that he went to that effort, shows that he's not just in it for the $$.

cool project! I was going to suggest a Sprint turbo as well. I've thought about twin turbo subarus before, as lots of us have, and I think it would be easiest to find room under the hood for all of that if the car were lifted due to dropping the engine. I see that you're lowering the car though, and that won't affect the room in the engine bay the way that lift kits do. hehe. you could put a lift kit on to drop the engine, and then lower the car that would give you a stock ride height and a dropped engine for more room.. just kidding.. good luck with that! I'd also like to "vote" for a staged setup, and suggest an oil cooler assembly.. talk to WJM about that if you like. and post lots of pictures!

heh. cars break because they like your money and repairs are an easy way for your car to force you to spend money on it! You are correct about the single large sealed bearing. You will need to remove the axle from the differential if you don't want to disassemble the axle itself. Dropping the mustache bar that the diff mounts to is an easy way to do this; it's just those two 19mm bolts at the sides. I would recommend doing the bearings on both sides of the car. you'll need two new bearings and two each of the two different(?) grease seals. This would also be a great time to convert to rear disc brakes if you haven't yet. Get the new bearings packed with grease (some come prepacked) and stick them in the freezer yesterday. this will "shrink" them.. heat expands, cold contracts. Tear down the rear of your car enough to dig the old grease seals out and pound the hubs out with a brass drift or a large-enough socket. I don't know which way they tap out from or if it matters. I'd say whichever end of the hub has a larger opening would be best. tap the new ones in from the same end. Grab those frozen bearings from the freezer and use a propane torch on the CLEAN hubs to get the metal to expand. Red hot is too hot, and there are lots of flammable things on a car, so get them "hot enough". the new frozen bearings should tap in very easily. put the new grease seals on either side after the metal has cooled. Rough up the outsides of the seals a little with some sandpaper for better grip. tap those in with a mediumish socket; go around the edge and keep the socket over the hub so that you can't tap the seal in too far when it becomes flush with the hub. good luck!

NICE find. clean the carb out with some seafoam, it might help getting it started.

if you need those tapes for your own defense, then you should be allowed access to them. I suggest that you submit the entire collection of tapes as evidence, and insist on viewing them in court in sequence to "demonstrate" why you need the last ones. that might scare them into giving them to you!

cool stuff, caleb! when I put the RX ft4wd in my turbowagon, i noticed differences in the shift linkage... just something to be aware of.

performance shocks/struts for older subarus.. I had a hard time getting RX spec KYBs ordered for my wagon a while back and they're a good brand...

the RX tranny is in my wagon

that is so cool. nice work on the rails. i especially like the engine hoist safety picture

nice try caleb

nice write up, thanks!

otherwise moosens will get to it before you do

that's really cool. now i'm thinking about wallpapering the inside of my brat

do we have a good 5 lug conversion thread in the archives or USRM yet? this one would do nicely if we don't.. or maybe combine this and whatever else we have...?

it might just sound like it's coming from the console because that's the easiest place for the sound to transmit into the car. did you check the transmission crossmember as well? and see if the exhaust is still mounted and fastened properly and not rubbing on anything.