baccaruda

FAB is right! those are nice... make me want to spend money I don't have on a car the bank still owns

you might eyeball your motor/trans mounts and driveshaft joints too.

thanks to everyone here. I will be taking a break from my job soon to take classes at the concrete workers' trade union, so I will definitely NOT be buying brat tops for at least a few months! But I would like to talk to Pat about his first (much closer to me) so I can have things lined up. Jerry, would you and/or Pat be up for the actual install? Can't say when it will be except hopefully by the fall...

good idea, thanks. I've changed the topic title to grab his attention... Hi Tim, any info on this would be appreciated!

thanks Tom.. I was thinking it could be done if you just welded in the section of the roof that has the tops, but it might be better to swap the whole roof. which is what your friend says. thanks! can you tell me about putting the EA82 radiator in your EA81 car? thanks!

you had the philharmonic whangdoodler on upside down, didn't you. i had the same thing happen.

yum

Hi Pat... well, I wouldn't be above trading for a GL brat, but who'd want to give up their T-tops? but assuming I graft some on, would I need to have the windshield and/or rear slider out to do it? to do it better perhaps??

I'd like to eventually have T-tops grafted into my brat's roof. I'd also like to have the windshield replaced as it's had a lot of sand blown at it or something and driving into the sunset is SCARY; i can't see! When I have the t-tops put in, will it be easier if the windshield's out or will it matter? I don't want to have to yank the WS twice.

schucks is 100% crap-on-a-stick. lesson learned!

i know exactly what you're saying, noah. to protect myself from being victim to that i used the example on the freeway.. with the same car, it would not accellerate out of 4th gear before the box was cut. there would have been no way to force it. after i cut the box, and on a later trip across I-90, on the same hill, the car was going 90 in 5th and it wasn't quite done accellerating when i decided to behave myself, since i'd just wanted to see how the engine pulled this time. that's why i'm pretty sure i wasn't just wanting it to be fast. plus, a turbo is a compressor. i don't know if flowbenches can compress, but the limits to how much air a turbo could draw through the intake, and how fast, are the size of the intake and how much compression the engine can tolerate. the entrance to the airbox thru the intake silencer is an oval the same shape as a deodorant stick's. eliminating the impedance of the intake muffler and enlarging the airbox entrance to a 5"x7" rectangle is a very dramatic modification (and actually a simplification if you think about it, which seems complementary to the increase ). please know that i'm not coming down on you at all, just explaining why i disagree. edit: i believe the bottom boxes are the same. hey, we could have an experiment. anyone near noah want to chop out their airbox?

yeah.. if anything, i'd question the CFM rating. and i wouldn't be surprised if the dramatic difference is only to be found on a naturally aspirated subaru, and the turbos get the real benefit.

i have cut the airbox on two EA82 turbo cars and it produced the same improvement.. with the first car, i removed the intake silencer first and then later cut the airbox out; with the second car i jumped straight to cutting the box and the end improvement was the same.

maybe he could yank the gears from one of those at least?

hm, when i compression tested the brat, i forgot to block the throttle open. how would that have affected the readings (160ish in each cylinder, tested twice each)?

you might consider going into production for the USMBers. I'll buy one of those later if I keep an EA82 in my poor turbowagon.

I'll bet if you did a true hardcore buildup, with expensive internal goodies and studs vs head bolts, etc etc, it would last much longer! this has been a very cool experiment though, thanks for taking the plunge.

Noah, I have done this on two turbo cars and there is much more of a difference than that. I'm talking about 60MPH in 4th gear before, and 90+mph in 5th after, with the same car, on the same gnarly freeway climb (vantage hill in WA FYI).. I would chalk up the difference to turbo vs NA. no offense meant toward your method or results, but this is literally the only change I made to that car, with stock exhaust BTW. having the pedal to the floor on a freeway hill is a lot different than a butt-dyno in city traffic too; i don't trust that method I would rather cut out the bottom of the filter box than yank the intake muffler, because yanking the muffler is more work IMO, and cutting out the bottom completely bypasses the muffler anyway.

sorry mick's wife!

maybe it's best to say that all older subarus are underpowered, and the justy is MORE underpowered than the rest? who cares what you drive.. many people invest too much of their self-image in their car anyway. have fun!

I officially declare this Best Thread Ever on the USMB!!! all hail McBrat as chief poet leader of the world!

Go Caleb!! right on, show those guys that bling is no substitute for skillz!

haha. that's great. it's like the joke... "someone called for you but i forgot to write it down".. ok, i think i know who it is and what it's about anyway... or you're in traffic, and your peripheral vision thinks it sees a subaru paint color somewhere almost behind you and 4 cars back turning off onto a sidestreet is an old hatch or something... "i thought i recognized that shade of white"

check your oil and coolant to make sure they aren't mixing. that would be another sign of a head/gasket related problem.

I've seen plenty of 4wd turbo GL10s that had no rear sway bar accomodations in the junkyard. Oh, and does anyone have data for the honda front springs that fit in an EA82's rear shocks?