baccaruda

many people have reported cleaner emissions after converting to the Weber. you may not need to worry about that...

yeah, it's a good prototype or practice piece anyway.. look on ebay or google image search for pictures of mass produced STBs, that'll give you more ideas too.

i'm sorry to have to say this but that won't work well as a STB. You have it mounted to the ears for the spare tire holder, which aren't designed to hold a lot of stress.. the mounts on the strut towers will just warp. You'll need to use at least two and preferably all three strut tower bolts to attach the braces for a STB. the idea about bracing it to the firewall is something you should pursue. good luck.

have her build me an EA82T. I'll send her $30!

I changed the MAF and the ECU, no change. Adjusted the TPS and it went away... for a while. I think it's either the TPS or maybe the coolant temp sensor; although I've dealt with the CTS's limp mode before and it doesn't completely cut out the throttle. I hope I have an extra TPS in the basement .. i'll try that tomorrow morning.

i think i'm going to change the TPS and MAF tomorrow. as well as check for codes. thanks skeet, i'll check my weber

so my car has this problem where, once warmed up, the throttle will cut out when you accellerate to 2300RPM and won't respond to the gas pedal until the RPMs drop to 1300. Once i chased it away by pounding on the MAF with my hand, at a friend's suggestion. Any ideas?

haha, i agree. i think you want it adjusted so the rachet clicks like 8-10 times when you pull the lever.

under the coin tray in the center console.

try loosening all three nuts that bolt the struts to the inside of the tower, and/or unbolting the control arm from the crossmember and pry it down/out with a pry bar. either will give you more play in the hub. you could always take off the caliper and rotor/hub to get more of a bite on it.

how might this affect emissions? I recall that you also want to remove all the little factory pipes and stuff, too, right? some of those have to do with vacuum functions...

thanks guys. i'm going to take it to a shop for a leakdown test next week, i think. i'll refresh the post then.

i should add that i recognize that i may have a problem with the spark plug socket or something to cause the reading of 25 PSI, however, the gauge stayed put instead of leaking down, but i'd consider it reasonable to look at the cylinder some more. i should also add that the information i quoted was received after i got back from getting the engine, which took an entire weekend and had to happen when it did. i wish i'd had such information first.. i should further add that i don't really have the time, enthusiasm, money, resources, money, enthusiasm, or money to make another engine for my car or do a lot of fixing on this one. i should also subtract.. myself! bedtime. thanks everyone.

OK, i compression tested my car's engine today, got 100-105 in cylinders 2,3,4 and 25 PSI in cylinder #1. yes, twenty five. I bought the engine with 10,000 miles on it since a rebuild by a reputed member of the board, the engine was owned and sold to me by someone who doesn't post here that often. I don't want to get into names right now. I put the engine in my car a few months ago and have not driven the car much; the boost level is stock and the only modifications I've run on the car are open exhaust and free-flowed airbox. The rebuilder said (after i got back with the engine) : "Well the short of it is that the engine was out of my old 87 RX with 180 000+ km and i did a base rebuild , rings, berrings and seals it was in trade for a XT6 engine that he had ,the motor didnt need a rebuild but i had the heads off so i did the rest just to make sure . "just so you know he did get it hot once (not sure why , maybe bad hoses or faulty head gasket?) and it needed a head gasket on one side , it pushed out the coolent passages in one spot to the out side of the motor ,"small leek " so i did a re&re on both sides just to make sure , but that was all i know about it since he lives a long way away from me . "it should be a good engine but i dont know his driving habits but i did tell him how to break it in properly. " so my feeling is that the engine may have had the bad cylinder when I bought it. The car has not had proper stock power or gas mileage since i put the new engine in; i chalked that up to needing a tune up or timing adjustment, but the timing was OK and neither of those actions improved the way it drove. I'm asking for opinions regarding whether I should contact the seller and pursue partial or full reimbursement. I know the seller ran the turbo at full boost, and the turbo that came with the engine had a crack between the exhaust and the wastegate. thanks to all who have input.

try this first, i recall that it's been covered recently. good luck! search function

i was going to suggest the 9.5:1 SPFI pistons. or get forged pistons sized how you like, even.

yes, the shift boot wasn't the first thing i noticed either!

haha, no. i saw this thread resurrected and hoped someone else had! i've been working more on getting the car to run right.. i have a place in town i could ask though.

all EA82 cars have the same wheelbase.

could you guys stop pi$$ing on each other? we've got better things to do. at the most, this guy is guilty of being overenthusiastic, if the HP is real; dj could have waited until he has more to show us, but we all brag about out projects.. or even if he's lying, there's no need for us to be rude to someone trying to waste our time. i'll tell you that i didn't spend an hour reading this whole thing; i ignored it after 3 pages and was stunned to see it had bloated to 8 pages. also, many USMBers are talking to this guy in a way that newer people cannot hope to get away with. battlewagonmedic gets yelled at a lot and i've read much worse here than anything i've ever seen him say. no offense if you're here BWM, just the first example i could think of. i don't think it matters who was rude first, either. i know that when i do read some of this thread, i feel embarassed about when i've shot my mouth off, and you all will be later when you think of this thread. so knock it off already.

the way i guessed it, when i first heard it and thought kqj3n4ffil1u35hfpuh!!!!!!!! what is that noise!!, was to turn the car back onto electrical/accessory but not to turn the engine over, and the noise started anyway. since i have my fan hard wired and it comes on instantly all the time, and since it *does* sound like a bearing or something trying to rotate, it was an easier guess.

hey, ease up.. sometimes i feel like i'm still catching up with the 90s too

my car's electric fan is shot. it has a horrible shriek that could sound like an exceptionally distressed goose.. try unplugging your fan and see if it goes away?

If you get KYBs, get the kind (rear only) that has the three adjustment notches; they'll let you jack up the rear about an inch. Also, you can put the front springs from some Hondas in the back shocks for more oomph. late 80s/early 90s i think; the springs will appear visually similar but obviously a little beefier.

try switching bulbs side to side and see if the problem stays put (wiring) or also switches (bulb).