baccaruda

get new TOB clips from the dealer too. very cheap insurance.

first of all, if you DO have to take it apart again, it will go much more smoothly. small consolation... i've done 3 clutch installations, always with new clips, and they've never fit snug. whether the TOB and clips are old or new. i'd suspect your clutch cable first. get a new one from the dealer; it's a little more than napa, but i've had a new napa clutch cable break so i don't choose to recommend their clutch cables. it's common for them to fail near the pedal, which wouldn't affect the adjustment you're inspecting under the hood anyway. you should see if the clutch fork moves when the pedal is used and go from there. the noise you hear could be the clutch pedal itself in the cabin.

i thought that napa sold rear GL air shocks for significantly less than front GL air shocks; do they do the same with XT6 rear air shocks? you might also talk to moosens as he's recently found a nice source for NOS subaru parts. they might be too old for the XT6 years though. you could always swap to coilovers and someday swap back to the air suspension, too.

might be sloppy wheel bearings or something? check that cone washer and the flat washer for wear. if they're worn try changing them out with fresh ones from the JY.. remember that the flat washer should be marked OUT on one side, so putting it on backwards might be a contributing factor?

a straight brace won't lend itself well to some intercooler setups..

I'm on my 5th personally, and i have at least 5 other friends in town who drive subarus.

i think the forged pistons thing is a myth. they're all cast.

i'll take one, and i have a few people i'm going to try to sell the idea to. i'll edit this post with a total later, but i'll take one for certain as of now.

oh, and i officially declare that the dead banana's name is Steve Martin, in honor of the arrow thru the head joke, plus the banana's busting out with an egyptian pose.

is this like an extreme quintathlon or something? looks fun, wonder why they didn't ask me to participate?

nice cars, L1800. guys, doesn't marnix live in germany?

the WD will work but it won't last as long as something more viscous. if you do end up taking it apart, maybe go to the stealership and buy new bushings for the pedal pivot rod.

that's a nice color. i think the spoiler is technically just an airfoil; it acts more to blow dust and stuff off the window, and it will aerodynamically recover a few HP at higher speeds. I think by looking at your picture that you might have the airfoil brackets mounted upside down? without drilling new holes, you should be able to get the airfoil to clear the rear window a little more; it helps when squeegee-ing the windows at the gas station or when scraping off snow and ice. are you painting all the black side trim blue too? that and the bumpers might look sharp. also, i'd like to add that i'm jealous of you (and anyone else) because you have a garage. :moon:

kamikaze, i'd suggest that if you jack up the tranny, that you unbolt the two 14mm nuts holding the tranny mounts to the crossmember so the mounts don't get stretched or torn. this might also be a good time to check and/or flush your radiator since it'll be out. and if you have problems with the exhaust bolts, do a search here for "helicoil" and you'll find instructions, i'm sure, on how to redo the exhaust studs; they're pretty easy. you don't have to completely remove the engine if you pull the radiator and fans; there will be enough room to slide it forward and do all the clutch and rear main seal stuff. also, go to the dealership and buy the two pins that hold the throwout bearing to the fork. they're less than $2 each which leaves no excuse in my book not to replace them. good luck! maroon: (heheh) the clutch fan should be bolted to your water pump pulley. the clutch part is the metal finned center piece that the plastic blades attach to. when the car gets going fast enough, say freeway speeds, the air coming into the engine bay thru the radiator will be moving as fast or faster than the fan itself. the clutch will let go of the blades so that the pulley still turns the center, but the blades don't move much at all; this saves horsepower (drag) and allows for smoother airflow thru the radiator as the fan would cause a high pressure zone due to turbulence, keeping the air from actually flowing thru the radiator.

hello and welcome! can you give more info about that turbo? it looks unlike most i've seen...

we got about 6-8 inches on new years' day. i drove pizzas in that in my subaru all day long without any other traffic to get in my way; it was so nice! yesterday my BRAND NEW radiator popped a hole so i'm back to the truck (198? toyota w. NO LSD) and more snow today. that truck only gets oomph to the right rear wheel. feel my shame...

http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f3c69dbce8b26.61439718/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c6a1ba35fe5.83740820.art

i have an idea for that based on swapping to the XT4's power steering setup.. it holds the reservoir in a more lower and forward location, and if i've heard right before, the tank is the exact part that the choke hits, right? I happen to have the lines and pump/reservoir and bracket from an XT4. Anyone who likes can have them for shipping cost if they'd like to try it.

how the hell does he find that much time to drive? how old is he? heh

yeah, or if you can't find another one with a better body. i'd say that you might start researching timing belt/ front end of engine service, in case it comes in handy soon..

i'd suggest doing a search based on "camber" and i assure you'll have a lot of good reading. lots of talk of it recently. good luck

a fun little trick is to hook up the brake light switch on the brake pedal to the horn circuit... every time you touch the brakes, BLLAAAARRRTT!!!

i would refresh the grease if doing an axle replacement or brakes, just unbolt the control arm and sway bar and tap the axle back a little to let the old grease out. if your seals are good, you shouldn't need to do it that often anyway.

yeah, i'm not going to try this without a drill press. i will use a wire brush on the drill to clean off all the gunk after i knock the old bearings out. got new bearings and ball joints, and changing both axles. the front end of my car looks like it belongs at the parts yard

although i do have the makita.. maybe i'll try doing it by hand, maybe not