baccaruda

ohh, and i just got an even better idea. put the WRX engine/trans/etc in the GL10 and put the EA82 stuff in the WRX, then cover the WRX with stickers and set the EA82T to max boost and sell it to some import tuner freak.

sounds like the heads/deck aren't flat and flush. if the RX body is tweaked though, it probably isn't worth the blood, sweat, and beers to resurrect it again. so you're going to put the trans in your wagon? sounds like a good combo; i know i'm fond of it

you could drill a small hole in it. like 1/16th"

yeah, you could have a selective shutdown (and start!) process to allow for absolutely minimal engine wear. i'd like to have some sort of anti tailgater/ice-melter lightning gun as long as we're talking about all the extra juice. is that so much to ask?

do you have a strut tower brace yet? what size sway bars are you running front and rear?

i vote for a completely shot pcv valve.. it's the cheapest and easiest possible fix. get one from the dealer. after you add oil

if you post a request for custom transmission gears on the http://www.ausubaru.com forum, someone there may be able to help you. i recall some talk about that.

if you do yank the dash, do yourself a favor and change the heater core/hot water valve while it's all out.

heater could be caused by low coolant or electrical gremlins.. more details will help or do a search for the word HEATER and you'll find a lot of recent heater repair threads (tis the season) I'd just chalk up the slushy headlights to old man winter thumbing his nose at you. they're cold to the touch as they're kept nicely chilled by the slush (plus 15 HP!) ... just be glad you're one of those with enough sense TO stop and cleanse them. Maybe get one of those scraper brushes with the glove attached?

what'll be REALLY nice is when the industry goes to the (i think) 45v electrical system in cars. then EVERYTHING will be electrically powered like this water pump... 42? thanks steven

last weekend i went back to the yard to an RX corpse they have.. remembering something someone had mentioned, i compared the strut rods on my 86 GL10 to the 87 RX.. the GL10 strut rods are 18 mm and the RX strut rods (which are now on my car, hehe) are 20mm. i'll confess that i don't know much about strut rods and exactly how they affect the car's handling; i just threw them on because they were bigger and from an RX. anyone have more info? I also found, on a 93 loyale sedan, a 17mm front sway bar (which is also on my car now) in case anyone's looking for a smaller front sway bar. I have the 20mm XT6 sway bar in the back, and until i put in the 17mm front bar, I also had a 20mm XT6 front sway bar. it feels a lot less front-wheel-drivey now. I now have front sway bars in 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, and 20mm.. after i figure out why i still have positive front camber (just a little, been that way ever since i put on the RX front struts?????) i'll figure out which is best in the front...

WHOOPS can you make that a small and an XL please? thanks

this site's pretty cool; don't know if it's the one with the lucas test though. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

don't forget new TOB clips from the dealer.

that turbo looks pretty coked. i wouldn't use it..

unngh. so should i be running my 1987 EA82T with 1986 wiring/dist/computer at 20degBTDC instead of 25deg? I get some ping with my foot REALLY into it but i though maybe i'd need to advance it past 25deg and up the octane, as I have the airbox cut out and a 2.5" catless exhaust.. but maybe it's advanced too far?

106k isn't too bad. i'd put a 106k turbo on my car in a second as long as it didn't look cooked. I don't think there's any difference between different years of EA82 turbos except the 87+ turbos have the wastegate routed to s separate controller instead of right off of the vacuum thingy like the 85/86s.

it's probably from japan. they use a paraffin based motor oil there as petroleum is harder for them to come by.

ok, i have it wired up as if it were an 86 so i'll leave it at 25deg. thanks ...

The 85-86 EA82T likes its timing at 25deg BTDC.. and the 87+ Ea82T likes it at 20deg BTDC. What causes the difference? is it the cams or the computer????

corrected size request below

this whole thread is too choppy for the archives, but a lot of its information should be saved, i think. anyone?

why 4th gear specifically? sounds like a neat idea though.

bearings CAN sound just like axles though... that fooled me on my friend Justin's wagon. Make sure you use disc brake compatible axle grease or your bearings will end up looking like burnt peanut butter.

however, you can convert to a hydraulic clutch if you want to. the pilot bearing is sealed, and you can get one at many places. some people here advocate using subaru dealer parts whenever possible.. i'm not sure if the pilot bearing is one example, but when i do a clutch i go to the dealer to buy two new throwout bearing clips. they're so cheap that there's no excuse in my book not to use a brand new one. who wants to do another clutch job just to replace an old broken pin? anyway, i usually get my pilot and TO bearings in the same trip to the dealer as the clips. this is also a good time to check your clutch cable and check the boot for the clutch fork that surrounds it where it exits the top of the transmission.. those get torn up with age and why not do it all at once? don't forget to have the flywheel resurfaced too. if you go thru the archives or the USRM (ultimate subaru repair manual) there have already been a few write ups on how to do a clutch job. good luck!