baccaruda

Anyone know if poly motor/trans mounts are available for EA82 cars?

heh. someone had to make the joke, i just didn't want to be the one thanks

maybe the clutch disc popped a spring.

do those weber kits come so ready-to-go that you don't need to fink with the jets and internals and such?

hi Ken.. thanks.. OK. i can always "booty fab" a bracket or something from the hardware store if i have to turn it past the ears. make sure the vacuum advance holds vacuum.. by putting a clean hose on the VA and pretending it's a glass of soda? if i can draw air through the VA it must be bad i'll guess? thanks

the hill holder cable might be whacked? it acts in lieu of a clutch return spring.

Hi Glen.. thanks! I was lazy in illustating the LEDs but i needed proper install info for them too. I see what you mean about the switch too. thanks a lot!

I don't think I was properly clear at first. my fault.. let's try this: I am working on a carbureted 87 wagon with a swapped in SPFI long block. I'm using the original carbureted distributor the car came with. Should i use an SPFI distributor even though i still have the original intake, wiring, carb, etc? When I was just getting the rotor/distributor gear in sync with the cam, I found that turning the dist all the way counterclockwise ran best so far, but it seemed a little better maybe if i toook out the distributor bolts and turned it a little past the ears it bolts to on the head.. but if I turned the rotor/gear CC one tooth and then rotated the distributor all the way clockwise, it wouldn't run. I was under the impression that rotating the distributor a tooth and turning the adjustment back the other way on the ears accomplished the same thing? thanks

hi John. thanks for the reply. I intended for the thermoswitch to be part of the high circuit. The LED should come on when the thermoswitch activates unless the high circuit is already on, instead of the low circuit. Here's another diagram. I started with one known to work from the volvo site. The red dots are LEDs, or where they could go anyway. I'm going to run this by an auto electric shop today while i errand.

edit *not awake enough to post yet*

you MUST have the pedal springs in correctly; I learned this the first time i failed to replace a clutch cable the right way, hehe it sounds like your DL donor car was missing the spring outright.

i think i mixed up the dashboard switch. In this version I removed its ground and replaced it with an ignition-on 12v supply.

2 thermoswitches would be ideal but the radiator isn't set up to accept another one, i think. thanks John. My soldering iron is 40 watt. should i get a stronger one so it chases less heat up the wire as it gets hot enough to melt the solder? also, re: the taurus fan "they reportedly draw 33 amps continuous, and up to 100 amps at startup!" - from the pirate post. Is this going to overload a stock subaru alternator/battery? thanks

Hi. I made this diagram for a 2 speed electric fan (pirate 4x4 mentioned that taurus fans are cool *yuk yuk* http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/taurus/index.html ) that i plan to grab this weekend. I studied this diagram on turbobricks.com http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=toyofan and made this diagram in photoshop. RH - relay for high circuit RL - relay for low circuit TS - thermoswitch It's supposed to allow the whole deal to be turned off for the freeway or water crossing (which i do all the time :moon: ). Also, the light is supposed to turn on when the thermoswitch closes unless the high circuit is in operation. I don't know enough about electrics to know if I got this right! please criticize!

I am working on a carbureted 87 wagon with an SPFI long block. I'm using the distributor from the carbureted long block. should i use an SPFI distributor even though i still have a carb? When I was just getting the rotor/distributor gear in sync with the cam, I found that turning the dist all the way counterclockwise ran best so far, but if I turned the rotor/gear CC and then rotated the distributor all the way clockwise, it wouldn't run. ////////// I haven't done the timing yet (dad's old timing gun died since last time i used it; found out an hour ago :temper: ) but I'm anticipating that I'll want to advance it and perhaps run higher octane gas? (carb motors usually have 8.5:1 compression, SPFI blocks have 9.5:1 ) Stock equipment is timed at 8deg BTDC according to the underhood sticker. I have the idle at about 850-900 (HTKYSA sez 700 but it dies). I'd appreciate any estimates where the timing will end up so that if it turns out off, i'll know i've got something else to adjust... thanks!

yeah, little clamps are bad. there are heavier duty clamps available that i should have mentioned as well. I want to keep it somewhat stock so the overall circuit is smaller. less oil in the system and easier on the oil pump, i'd think. thanks though

hey, there's only four numbers but that's sixteen possible combinations my friend dale works at a pub with 18 different beers on tap.. he likes to give people a bad time if they take more than 2 seconds to decide.. "cmon man, there's only 18, what's the matter?"

notice how i cleverly forgot the pic in my above post to add to the rising drama.

On some other message boards I know of (also Vbulletin) .. some people don't notice that the option to send a copy to yourself is pre-checked. so when you PM someone it sends a copy to a different folder of yours, but it still takes up space. After a while of not noticing this, your PM box will be too full to accept current messages. also, in the user CP/edit options, there is an option that is turned off by default, to pop up a box when you receive a PM. in case you're too impatient/lazy to check your PM box like me.

Hey Art. I've attached a picture of the two solenoids from the SPFI donor motor I put in Skeet's car. I apologize for the wait. One has a black wiring harness clip and the other has a white one. the black one has a vacuum snout broken off as indicated. I don't know which is which. I also have an SPFI wiring harness, and an EGR valve that I could sell too. Maybe you have something further upstream or wrong with the EGR valve itself? Interested?

hey. i could take off all of the crap on skeet's car too. might make it easier to dial in the timing too. his car is an 87 carbureted with an SPFI long block. I've already taken off the crap that bolts to the top of the heads and plugged the hoses that no longer have anything to connect to. no emissions in kentucky where it'll live and a weber in the future = why not? thanks as well for any advice.. oh, and i know that some people put breathers on the valve covers... anything wrong with just looping the valve covers together or would that be like a vacuum leak squared or ??? well, i could loop them and put one breather in with a T.

yikes, no thanks. and thanks

hey Morgan, welcome in. i think that high pressure oil hose is available for this, and i've been advised to double clamp each end. hi Shawn.. thanks anyway but I have two Is the EA81 filter on the driver's side of the engine? I can't remember since I've not owned one yet. Also, is the turbo on the passenger's side of an EA81T? thanks

if you (can) add the power locks from an EA82 though, then unlocking the driver's door outside with the key will unlock the passenger's door too. i'm looking into doing this with an EA82 wagon. I don't know yet if I'll have to add anything else except the solenoids in the doors. ..... and i just got off the phone with a guy at spokane auto electric. he said that the harnesses were not all the same even on low-option cars like they are now. so it's not just plug n play like i hoped