baccaruda

OK... So I will need to receive Bill's transmision from One Eye while we're over, and if anyone wants RX parts, speak up! Also, Brian has stuff to bring back.... right?? B, are you taking any parts over?

http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/986785648.html keep your eyes open, spokies! Car has been found, read a few posts down.

never heard of 'em

this new multiquote thing is great! It's a 4" BYB lift by PK Davis. 4" engine & rear suspension, 3" trans. The 5-lug is XT6 control arms and rear hubs/brakes, and Legacy front end stuff except for XT6 front brakes I did lots of other stuff to it - I'm not "done" and was going to make a diagram/poster as a photoshop project before Brian found that in my photobucket account! Thanks, I like to make my car projects look factory-esque. You can't see them under the snow but I have (I think) 11 roof rack rails on top of the car. I'll take a daylight picture soon.

Brian and I will be over next weekend (the 17th). I'd LOVE to find a clean & straight hood for my wagon. Color is 954 Lucent Gray from 1986. Anybody got one for maybe $20ish??? We'd love to hook up with some people for lunch and funtimes.

Yeah they are from either/both. Thanks for the raves guys

what's up with it? what size blocks are used for the engine xmember and trans xmember? mine has a 4" on the engine and 3" on the trans crossmember. i made special strut rods to correct the 1" difference.. is that it?

i'll dig it out in a little bit.

Ed, I hope you're billing the insurance co. hourly! If it helps I can get you a copy of the bill of sale for my Brat as well as pics.. I think I got like $1500 or something when I sold it. Let me know.

I got some front axles from cvaxles.com and put them in a month or so ago.. they were great to deal with and charged (i think) $90ish per axle. the CVJs and DOJs were super stiff when I got them. My money's on a loose caliper .. if the bearings were that bad they'd make noise more often? Good luck!

broiled Subaru knuckles with frozen bearings a la mode for dessert!

Pack the new bearings with grease, then wrap them in waxed paper and put them in the freezer for a day.. the metal will contract enough that it will make them a little easier to put in. Some people heat the knuckle with a torch to expand it and make it easier still to put the bearings in.. I've never been a fan of this due to all of the flammable stuff in that area so caveat emptor. Good luck!

If you have a 4-headlight car, you'll have to cut the grille around the door. I've seen it done and looking good so it's possible. I think the hose is actually a drain hose for water vapor that can end up in the light... the door is powered by a motor and a mechanical arm.

It's a motor for a headlamp. heheh. Probably for an XT4/6; they have pop-up headlights.

If you can get pictures of the damage it might help. Or, perhaps someone else can post a picture of a 4EAT and M45 can indicate where the crack is with MSPaint/etc. M45, it sounds like this is your introduction to medium/major work on your car. You're in luck because this is all really straightforward and has all been done lots of times. If your transmission ends up needing to be replaced (or even if it doesn't ) I'd push you toward a 5-speed swap. Maybe get your transmission fixed and then think about it, less pressure that way. Good luck!

Those look like the graphic from the door.. the tailgate will use the same font but the size will be different.

Your car will be fine with simply changing the driveshaft. You may need a 14mm wrench or ratchet to remove the 2 center carrier bolts.

if your car's VIN is in the dealer database, and if you bring proof of ownership, the dealership will cut you the smoothest-working key you've ever had for an old Subaru.

http://www.indysworld.com/decals/ *twas in the vendor forum

something i'll do with a new thermostat is to either remove the "jiggler valve" or drill a 2 or 3mm hole, to help guard against air bubbles...

Looks great, especially with the baja-style bumper. did you make that bumper or adapt it from something else?

there's nothing wrong with making your own tools! I like your 14mm allen wrench a lot.

I'd yank the engine because you won't have the car dripping on your face and you can check/change the rear main seal and front of the motor stuff more easily. I have 2-pc hydraulic elbows on the heater coolant and fuel lines, though, and a drain valve w/ nipple on the radiator and on the oil pan :cool: You can check/change the coolant if it's been a while, too. I like to clean out the worst of the gunk in the engine bay, too.

Awesome! Good luck.

Good job. I hope you tipped the tow truck drivers here's what you do. Get it into your garage and jack it up. Take the wheel off of the driver's side front and get all the snow brushed/melted out of both sides. This will let you see the difference and get a good comparison between what's broken on one side and what's not on the other. If you can't get a ride to the parts store, someone here can certainly mail you the parts. I'd suggest that you read up on axle boot repair and decide if you want to replace the axle outright or repair it. Regardless, you'll need the proper punch. Look at this link for Sears'. The first one will work and they make a longer version that I'd prefer over the shorter version. Notice that the second one in that list is TAPERED and will NOT work because it'll get stuck. These are the tools you'll need to change and reinstall the boot. DON'T PAY THIS MUCH FOR THEM. They're available separately and less expensively but this lets you know what they all look like at once. The "boot clamp cutter" isn't really necessary as diagonal pliers will work fine. There are two different types of clamps and thus two different types of pliers. Different boot kits come with either type of clamp. Zip ties also work in a pinch but are hard to tighten enough and might fail under such tension. You'll also need the 36mm socket for the axle nut and get some spare cotter pins, too. Get a can of PB BLASTER to help with corrosion on the axle nut and in the spindle's ball joint recess. Good luck! edit: This is what a ball joint looks like when it's in one piece