baccaruda

also expect new motor mounts and transmission mounts unless you like changing axles twice a year. I think the key is your definition of "heavy car parts." Cummins 6yl engine block? No. Extra Subaru engine and transmission? Yes. A small trailer might be a good solution for stuff that's truly "heavy." Likewise, a heavy-duty tarp would mitigate the condition of your Brat's bed against the crap you take to the dump and scrape out with a shovel. I've had a Brat and would endorse a Legacy engine swap - this will buy you a little more weight to carry but keep in mind that the rear unibody and suspension have their own opinion unrelated to torque/hp. If you're not a contractor, or if you don't have large/heavy/long items to transport yourself, go ahead. Just think of it as a Subaru wagon without a roof

The pics are there, try wiping the Cheeto-fingerprints off of your monitor! :cool:

take a can of PB Blaster and a wire brush to the junkyard with you.. the backing plates can be a PAIN to get off. Small sledgehammer too. Tap them to rotate them side to side while you pull on them.

My car is an 86 wagon with an EJ22, RX trans/LSD, lift, and Legacy 5-lug conversion. I'm in the middle of a "front axle situation" and have basically the same RWD setup as you but with 27" tires. I'm not even taking my car on the freeway. The RX transmission is too rare to risk destroying or damaging. It's not like you can grab one of them any weekend at the junkyard. I respectfully suggest that if you want to continue enjoying your Subaru with RWD that you swap in a standard 3.9 dual range. As long as you keep it in either low or high 4WD it'll feel exactly the same as what you're used to. As a bonus, if you want to put front axles back in (with 23-spline cups of course) you can easily convert the rear LSD to a more aggressive 3.9 ratio. Please don't blow up any more RX trannies.

that's a good point; a good stiff rear sway bar and a quality shock/spring setup willl do a lot for these older cars. You might do best to first focus on stabilizing the car front to back?

yeah, we've done that like 4 times now? and it always comes off easily. Sometimes the vibrations from the grinder will loosen the bolt and you can unscrew it using the stub as the grip - if you don't cut all the way through the bolt in the center. Imagine cutting a bagel or donut all the way around into the center but not cutting the "hole" in half. We've never actually had to drill.

I'd guarantee you that for that price, he got it from a dealership. I like the EA82 wagon body style immensely. I share GD's sentiments about their engine to the degree that a connoisseur would be that particular... to the everyday commuter, though, it's not an important point. I'd say that $2k for a MINT MINT MINTY FRESH body/everything would be reasonable, keeping in mind that I like EA82 wagons a lot. $3700 is pushing it hard, though :-\

I had an EA82T with a millimeter (maybe two) of crank walk with no noises or leakage.

Jacob, I don't think PBBlaster will help here but you get points for saying PBBlaster and not WD40 Someone here will have a wiring diagram for your 85 Brat and might be kind enough to email or fax it to you. There might be a problem with a relay or something, and adding switches is just going to be more to fix later. Plus, depending on where the problem is, you might not put the switch in the best location to negate the problem. You could just unplug the fan and clock for now; that's what I'd do instead of splicing stuff in.

The pressure plate bolts are torqued to 12 ft-lbs and they are 12mm bolts. Easy to remember as the number's the same. The flywheel bolts are 44 - just remembered that because I'm lucky:confused:

convertible coupe?

I just picked up 5 more free Subarus last weekend! I couldn't help myself I kid, I kid. Yours must have something pretty cool if you're that giddy. Hurry up and post pics!

does the engine sound like it's missing or anything? It might be a timing belt problem or something wrong with/in the distributor.

for what it's worth, I had a complete set made for my wagon at a local hydraulic shop. I brought them complete junk rubber line sets from the junkyard - 1 front, 1 back - and said "make me these from SS." Oh yeah, and I added 4" so I wouldn't have to fink with adjusting my lifted wagon's brake line brackets My set cost me around $100.

Hi, it can and has been done. This thread has a lot of the info you might need. http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84505&highlight=ej22+carb Scott from that thread as well as members monstaru and bratsrus have great info about carbed EJ motors. I notice you're new here. Check out our search feature up there >>^^ when you have a chance. It works great as long as you use search terms of 4 letters or more.

AWESOME.

thanks Lewis. She may have found someone extremely local to help. I'll update after she updates me. Thanks to all for "being there."

weird. I am pretty confident of the clutch as I changed it for her a couple summers ago. I'll have her check for the spun hub, I guess.

Indeed, Eric. I was thinking Richie as well.. thanks. Bill, thanks but it's an AWD Legacy so the rears would have power even if the front didn't.

If anyone near Jewell Junction, OR (1hr NW of Portland on 26) can help, my friend's 90 Legacy 5MT has either a clutch that's stuck "open" or a transmission that's borked. My guess is the tranny as it's apparently got a gear oil leak. The car does not seem to have power in any gear. Shifting reportedly feels normal. She lives here in Spokane and is trying to get back from a long road trip. Meghan is out of area for her cell phone. Please post here if you can help with diagnosis, repair, or crashing/camping space (3 people and 2 dogs). The trans and rearend are 4.11. Thanks, Andy

I'll bet a futon would fit

Mountan Tech might have some of those in the "archives." When I start making labels and such I want to make stickers replicating those :cool: enjoy, Connie!

That's a bunch of crap. You trusted them to give you the right part and they blew it - and your ONLY way to find the mistake was to install the part and render it unreturnable. I hope you paid with a credit card or a debit card with a VISA / MC endorsement - dispute the charge. Give them a chance to make it right and get you the right part before you pull that trigger.

that looks like an awesome project.

yeah, i watched the borla headers video and assumed it was the same car.