baccaruda

have you swapped gas caps yet?

1: marry her again 2: search for "beefaru" and you will see a long-term daily driver wagon with VERY extensive mods. It's all about the quality of work done to it. 3: have another car to drive while you do whatever you do to your lifted rig.

the switch disassembly entails cleaning the small copper contacts with some emery paper or such, and reapplying a small amount of dielectric grease. MTFBWY!

My EA81T coupe does a little of that too.. new KYB GR2s in the back too, and none of the bushings seem loose or rotted.. I haven't thoroughly troubleshot it yet.. I also need to put in fresh front sway bar bushings because I KNOW that thing's making some noise... good luck.

My GL10's temp gauge has always been wacky.. I have a mysterious black box-thing as well, in my wagon. I can't remember exactly how it was mounted.. and in the spirit of this thread, I'll take a picture when I get home..

that looks pretty good. I don't mind the way car bras look but I am wary of their potential to block airflow needed to cool the car. *my car has a strictly enforced No Bras Allowed rule *

I think the bodywork would make it more trouble than it's worth, but I drilled a hole through the handle of my car's gas cap and grafted on a retainer line that keeps me from losing the cap..

junkie FTW!

Dual EJ22s with FWD auto transmissions, in a brat. Both engines could face forward.

yeah, glop some in there. not too much or you could pressurize the seals and pop them out while tightening the axle nut.. but while doing that, you'll see some squirt out of the opening in the cone washer. tighten the axle nut slower if you're unsure.

I've never noticed the rear axle thingy either. Weird I've never had trouble getting the hub off.. I prefer to just take it off as it's easier to tap the axle out with a block of wood, it's easier to shoot fresh grease into the wheel bearing, and it's easier to pull the axle back through with a couple of large flat-blade screwdrivers or a couple of prybars. I pry it through against the threads just enough to screw the castle nut on, then pry against that to pull it the rest of the way through, screwing the castle nut down as I go, and replacing the hub halfway through. It also gives you a chance to inspect the teeth of the hub I always pull the center control arm bolt but my EA81T coupe needs an axle treatment soon and I might try the ball joint trick.. it probably needs new ball joints too I've never loosened the transmission mounts.. that seems like too much work to me, not to mention crap falling off of the bottom of the car into your face Loosening the strut is easy. 2 or 3 bolts and you get a lot more play with the whole strut/knuckle assembly. It's not necessary though. Cutting the strut bracket for the brake line is a time-honored secret trick. As long as it's bent open cleanly enought that it will pinch back closed straightly and accept the clip, go for it. It beats bleeding the brakes if you're not planning to.

I replace boots. I take the axle all the way out because I feel it's easier to put it on the workbench, and because I like to shoot fresh grease into the wheel bearings when I have an excuse. You can get a nicely shaped plastic trough from (I think) the wallpaper dept at the hardware store; it will help keep the mess self-contained. A boot kit is far cheaper than changing the whole axle. Running the axle until it breaks is a waste of money and a waste of axles. Running the axle until it breaks is only for people who like walking home. A tube of grease doesn't cost $12 each time you change a boot, it's about $3 per boot, and I use the bearing grease that is sold in tubs rather than in a tube.

the difference, I think, is whether the caliper has an E-brake on it or not. If it has an E-brake it has to be screwed in clockwise, if it has no E-brake it will look like the caliper in your picture and it can just be compressed back in. Old Subarus have the E-brakes in the front calipers, most cars have the E-brakes in the rear.

i'll take a shot of my EJ/AC solution for you tomorrow. I removed the center radiator support and hood latch/receiver and went to hood pins. I have two EA82 electric fans on the front side of the A/C condenser, wired to push instead of pull. They fit because I chopped the lines off of the A/C condenser flush with its surface. I will have them brazed shut in front and I will graft them back onto the sides, and I've rerouted the thinner aluminum lines to meet where those lines will be grafted. The fans are mounted with some bolts and spacers, with nuts to be welded captive next time i can get the car to Brian's and take out the radiator. I need to weld a little bit of metal around their perimeters to shroud the airflow a little better. But they both fit in front and look awesome with the black blade variety of fans I will have to have a hybrid set of EA/EJ lines made for underhood. Probably next year at this rate.

rust is sort of its own special issue. if you have a rust belt car, i'd guess that half of the by-the-book procedures won't work for you as smoothly as they're supposed to. Rust means extra projects. Rust means that electively removing and greasing your ball joints and and electively removing your axles and antiseizing your stubs are part of maintenance...

i've had several EA82s and I never need my salt shaker.

turkey basters are vastly underappreciated as toolbox accessories.

Hi Lisa, Searching for "EA82T" and "overheat" will provide you with a lot of reading material; if you see steam or coolant drips, or if you car uses coolant, then you have a leak to be fixed. If your car uses coolant but you don't see steam or drips, it may be an internal issue such as the engine's head gaskets. If it doesn't seem to use coolant, it probably needs a new radiator and perhaps a new water pump. You're making the right choice not to drive it until you solve this. Good luck...

OK, I didn't want to work on my car because it's what I've been doing for the past 981347 weekends in a row, so I just fixed my diagram: thanks Gloyale!

I prefer to unbolt the shocks/struts at the bottom and then to unbolt the differential mustache bar.. the diff will hang from the top center mount and you should have enough play to get the axles out.. this means you don't have to mark the 3 bolts' locations or worry about alignment.

I've had a few turbos. They're a BLAST to drive, especially with the air filter box chopped out and a proper exhaust fitted. The digital dash can be quirky, as in the temperature gauge (a bunch of bars like your cell phone reception) can burn out on whichever bar is on the most.. so normal operating temperature can mean that you won't see a reading on the gauge .. the digital dash is also impossible to read when the sun is on it. The engines do require more attention to maintenance but that is manageable if you have the money to buy parts and do things in stages, in a preventive strategy (in part): exhaust gaskets at the heads and pre- and post- turbo, and the turbo oil and coolant lines at the same time as all but the heads' exhaust gaskets are easiest with the turbo removed. all coolant lines on the top of the engine block, and the heater hoses, WILL fail eventually. Replacing them all at once means only draining the coolant once. Change the coolant too. The radiator almost certainly will need to be replaced before 175k miles.. a new 2-row core can be had for less than $120 if you're lucky. You would probably want to handle the timing belts and an oil pump service and water pump replacement all at the same time, and hit the cams' and crank's seals for convenience's sake as well. Valve cover gaskets too.The big question in my book would be whether a 2WD auto car would be worth the extra effort. My personal preference would be for a 4WD 5-speed, more bang for your buck. And a wagon too but that's me If you don't wrench much, an older Subaru can be a great learning experience - but won't be as enjoyable when it catches you by surprise. The infamous How To Keep Your Subaru Alive book is available for download in some places, one of which I host: http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf good luck!

whoops. thanks for this. I know this but the part of my brain that types what I know screwed up. I'm going to edit my original post for clarity. Thanks for your main reply as well. I'll repost later with results.

either the wiring's crazy or I am! Let's find out! (Crikey! Let's get closah!) I added a second electric fan to my EA81T coupe, where the clutch fan used to be. No problem. I snagged an A/C relay from a Loyale because I wanted a strong-enough relay that was meant to be used underhood. The relay energizes with the red/black wire grounded and the green/white wire to power.. I THINK. The relay's blue wire gets juice and the blue/yellow wire powers the appliance in question. THE WEIRDNESS: I have the 2 hot wires all hooked up temporarily to the battery while installing. The blue/yellow powers the fan, which is grounded to chassis. I have the red/black relay wire spliced in with the car's yellow wire that is grounded by the thermoswitch. (the thermoswitch and stock fan work correctly.) With the car OFF, touching the green/white to [battery+] energizes the relay.. and the fan runs even though the engine is cool and the thermoswitch is open. ??? With the car ON, touching the green/white to [battery -] energizes the relay (and the fan still works).. ??? Can someone straighten me out here??

it could be cheaper to swap in an EJ22, FWIW....