baccaruda

My donor engine / harness are a 1990 (3-plug) EJ22. The coolant passage pipe on top of the block has a "Thermometer" with one pole and a "Water Temperature Sender" which has two poles and is brown/red. The WTS deals with both the EJ gauge and the ECU. I can't seem to find where the "Thermometer" goes to. I am going to drill and tap one of those sensors' holes for an EA temperature sender (digidash's idiot light, single pole). M16 thread, 1.5 pitch FYI. I thought I'd read that someone drilled out the WTS hole but as that goes to the ECU, and since I can't see as how the "Thermometer" seems to go anywhere, I wanted to double check what I'd read..

If you have a dremel tool, you might try to recover some sort of hex shape out of the heads.

nice! how much was it?

all of the above plus parts are getting less and less common for the older engines. turbos require more maintenance on average, as well. Plus the EA82 in general requires more maintenance as it's got an overconvoluted timing belt design and other less efficient qualities. Also, would you rather run an EA82 closer to its max potential, or an EJ22 right in the middle of where it's comfortable?

bleed the system by turning the wheel lock-to-lock a few times, holding it for a second at each stop. This is most easily done on a variable traction surface like mud/gravel, or by parking the front wheels on a couple of thin sheetmetal plates. After this, you check the fluid level and repeat to suit.

hi Joseph, welcome and thanks for searching first. Hollowing or otherwise bypassing the catalytic converters will negate their restrictive properties (as well as their cleaning properties), thereby allowing the turbo in your car to work more efficiently. You would notice that the boost kicks in earlier or with less pressure on the gas pedal. You can obtain a similar result by cutting out the bottom of the air filter's box. Leave enough of a lip to retain the filter. This will increase the size of the passage through which your turbo draws air. Both of the above modifications exploit a turbo's need for unrestricted airflow. I'd advise you to chop the airbox first, and then to consider swapping in a WRX downpipe and cats rather than completely discarding yours, as I lean more environmentally instead of as an all-out hot rodder. WRX stock exhausts can be found relatively easily and are more than large enough to improve airflow through a smaller engine that's using older valvetrain technology. I did have a turbowagon with a 2.5" catless exhaust and it was a bit loud. Damned fun to drive though. I'm not the one to answer your intercooler questions except to say that a top mount will be far easier to rig. Your dash may be fried. Whether you replace it or resurrect it, you will want to go through the groundwires in your car's engine bay and replace most of them as they'll be crusty and crispy, and the digital dashes are sensitive to such. Good luck! Andy

you might be able to unscrew the remnant with a round file.. don't get it stuck in there. good luck!

right, that's why i hinted at needing to swap the inner shock towers and framerails. pretty much the whole front clip.

glass dust wouldn't be fun to get in your eyes, nose, mouth, ears, hair, pores, anywhere. I'd rather get dunked in a vat of undercarriage greasedirt and have to scrub it all off than get glass dust all over me. what's wrong with the window?

lol @ your dog

The fenders don't match the doors, which means you'd have to cut and paste Loyale-style fenders with XT-style fenders.

That's a stock XT6 bumper I believe. For the record, I once test-mounted an XT bumper onto my 86 wagon. There would be some interesting cutting and blending to do to get the bottom skirting of the bumper to harmonize with the lower fronts of the fenders, but it would look sweet. It may be that the mounting brackets would need to be flipped too, I don't remember...

argh. I didn't look past the "leaking automatic" part 's what I get for trying to rush in a bit of slacking at work! (I'm still right though!! )

yeah you'd have to turn 4 fenders into two and swap the front framerails and inner shock towers.

I haven't visually compared the radius rod plates but that's what Jerry told me while I was talking to him about a 5-speed shifter kit.. maybe just grab them while you're at the yard to be safe; they can't cost too much. Also, I just stuck my head under my coupe and there *is* a 1-piece driveline sticking out of the 3AT sorry Mike! The 3AT is a 3.7 though.

I'm looking at doing the same thing to my EA81T coupe SOON. You need the transmission/shifter stuff and rear diff to match, of course. You need to either have a custom 1-piece driveline made or attach the 5SP 2-piece's carrier bearing to your car's tunnel somehow. You need the transmission crossmember and strut rod/reaction rod plates as they're different between models (according to Jerry - thanks!) You need the flywheel and clutch stuff, and pedal rack and clutch cable. I'd grab the throttle cable too, just to be safe. And speedometer cable too, probably. The front axles should fit the same as long as you're getting a trans from a N/A car. Same inner spline count. Good luck!

my EA81T is getting better mileage lately as well. Probably seasonal factors.

as long as the air enters from the outside, it doesn't matter where the fan's mounted. It can blow either way...

check the top link below in Similar Threads.. it should be all there to piece together? good luck.

I know I haven't found you one! I'd say go for it if it's a good deal. Ideally your donor car would be an OBD-1 car with a manual transmission, for the simplest wiring possible. Rguyver's right though about the FSM - with it, all things are possible..

heh. you're definitely dreaming! LSDs are only found in 85+ "Loyale" style cars with turbo. Technically they exist in some XT6es and in some other rare formats, but for practical purposes, the don't exist in nonturbo cars. Most turbo cars won't have them either.

I've never had one installed on my cars

bypass valves are better as they vent not to the atmosphere but into the intake. quieter too.

have you treated the bumpers with something or are they naturally that good looking? (insert narcissistic joke here if you want )

Oversize would be better than undersized.. that heat shielding should come off fairly easily; you might have some bolts snap from rust instead of unscrewing. Put it back on or not when you're done, it's your choice. If you take it to a shop, you'll probably end up getting a new flange (with a fresh welding surface) as well as the forward 2" or so of the pipe replaced. My EA81T's downpipe did that right off of the turbo today.. I can't even limp it to the shop