baccaruda

if you pack an air compressor/inflator, you can deflate the 185 enough to fit in there and just fill it up when needed. (If you're rolling an EA82, you've probably already removed that shelf in the spare tire well, right?)

don't forget to keep zip ties, cheap mini-tape measure, ziploc bags, red cargo flag, and extras like roll pins, axle nut/washers, electrical tape, and maybe a set of lugnuts on ya! If you want to pack duct tape but don't want the space taken up, grab a clean bolt or something long enough and wind several feet around it.

the turbo crossmember has an allowance for the downpipe - that's the only difference. I personally would not fink with the crossmember right now. When you're ready to put the engine in - presumably with a cherry picker - just lower the engine in without the clutch (so you don't have to worry about the trans/clutch matchup) , line up the lower engine>>trans studs, and see if the motor mount studs will line up. Odds are that they will, or if they don't you can mod the crossmember then instead of guessing where to drill now. Then you can pull the engine back out, install the flywheel and clutch, and drop it in.

My EJ22 has round mounts (and had no stubs, oddly enough). I didn't need to grind (1986 EA82T car). I think that EA81 cars need to be ground but it may be that EA82 cars don't.

I use a chopped section of old timing belt, and a vise-grip, to hold the cam gear while torquing / breaking their bolts.

yeah I had a Napa cable blow in a week. search for "clutch cable" and "route" and read up on how it goes in correctly. I installed a dealer cable INcorrectly and it lasted a year before it blew

so it seems zzz:banana:

my EA82 crossmember required no notches.

I'm a big fan of the "stubby" myself!

I am rather fond of the dual range and would probably put in a PT low gear for S&G. This is a little bit into the future for me though... but this has been a highly educational thread!

you should drop the leading bar/strut rod. The control arm (to which it attaches) is dropped with the crossmember.. which means that if the strut rod and the control arm are not the same distance from the body, then the strut rod will affect the angle at which the control arm attaches to the crossmember. If the strut rod is attached too high (with a smaller lift block) then the control arm will be pulled backwards. If the strut rod is attached too low (with a taller lift block) then the control arm will be pushed forward.

Bratman, your PM box is full!

nah, I have an RX 3.7 FT4WD trans in my wagon and I really like what Beefaru has in his rig but I'm not sure whether I'd want to keep the locker or swap in a viscous. I care nothing about the PT4WD transmissions :-p but thanks for the warning. You are saying that the FT4WD pinion is a shaft-inside-a-shaft? Modding the crossmember isn't a big deal compared to transmission guts-swapping! I do know that I would at least like to change the ratio as he did - 4.11 ratio, Forester 5th gear for better highway RPMs - but he had a viscous center section swapped in, which fits what you're saying. But couldn't the pinion be pressed off/onto the shaft by a machine shop? That would let me keep the locker (if I choose) and change the ratio. Especially if I fink with the 5th gear anyway as I'd take it to a shop for that too. Didn't the STI come with an adjustable center diff? lol

sounds fair to me!

you'd be better off selling the good turbo motor toward funding an EJ swap. Fundamentally I think the EA81T is only about 10-15% more difficult to swap in, but.. why go to all the work to end up with 95HP and a higher maintenance motor, when you can end up with a 135HP motor that's easier to maintain and easier to find parts for. If you decide to go that route, sell the whole EA81T car either here or to some home-build aircraft fanatic, they love those motors and they have more money to play with than your average old-subaru fan - think fabricating a plane from scratch.

I've swapped 3.7 LSDs to 4.11 a few times now so I'm familiar with matching crown wheel/ring gear to the pinion gear.. but the rest of this stuff is beyond what I've ever done.. very cool stuff, guys. Chux, I'm a little lost as to what you're referring as I don't know my transmission anatomy very well.. I can see that the one pinion is longer than the other though.. thanks. (Phizinza, I think you're right about the XT6 coming in 3.9) Let me make sure I have this correct: So (theoretically) you can interchange the 3.7 FT4WD pinion,etc & ring/crown with the 3.9 to swap gear ratios between FT4WD transmissions. Treating the FT4WD guts as noted above as essentially identical, the theory is that you have to match the pinion/ring to the center differential when swapping between FT4WD and AWD transmissions. And, Phizinza, you're saying that the center differential section and the crossmember must be matched to each other? sorry for the inquisition but rephrasing what you guys have said is how I make sure I have it correctly

that's pretty much it. I found a mint dark blue dash for my 84 coupe and i pulled the windshield out of the junkyard car. My coupe needs its windshield resealed/replaced so this summer I'll make a project out of changing the windshield, dash, and R&Ring the heater all at once.

so swapping the center section means swapping the pinion gear as well. Which means that any gear ratio changes should be done at the same time. I'd be keeping the EA82 trans case if I do any such thing...

that's what everyone always says :-p but half the time (including this entire thread!) there's no specific model year referred to. And the way Brumby Boy said "That is an MY two door hatch" made it sound like he's referring to the EA81 body/engine style in general, rather than "a 1983 Model Year hatch..."

Ok, so from the chart: 4WD RX Sedan (EA82T) Front Spring Coil Spring Coefficient = 27.5 N/mm and from the FSM 1984 EA81T Front Spring Coefficient: 25.5 N/m So the EA82 RX springs are a little more aggressive than the EA81T's. Not so much that I'd seek them out. The EA81T front struts/springs sit a little lower but not enough to account for my coupe's stance, which means it's more likely that the back was clocked up a little. Not that I mind, but if I were to equalize the height and then decided to push the front up a little more, I'd probably go with 4WD front struts and perhaps add spacers under the springs. Thanks for helping me hash this out, guys. This weekend I'll have to take some shots of my coupe so i can finally show it off! Then you can see what I'm talking about too.

how complicated is this swap?

they had longbeds available overseas but that yellow one might look stretchy because of the camera angle and the shape of the topper's window...

what the heck does "MY" mean? I know it means "EA81 car" but is it an acronym or what?? Nobody seems to know.

Thanks, was that in the FSM (of which I have one:rolleyes:)? My coupe squats in the front but the back is high, it may have had its torsion bars adjusted.. and if the springs *are* shorter, that's what spacers are for.

Searched, failed. The infamous Subaru Suspension Chart does not cover the EA81 at all. Does anyone have specs for the EA81T-style front springs? And I know that the front of the EA81T sits lower in front.. is this a function of the strut height or spring height or both? thanks, Andy