baccaruda

Thanks everyone. I was thinking it was safe but I feel better getting input from others on this. Pat, thanks for the tech. I had no idea it was irrelevant while running. I am possibly going to put a small radiator core inline with the tubro's coolant inlet; I figure it can't hurt anything...

ahh. i see now that that is a RHD car.

hey, with that particular problem you were right to ask first and pound on it later! good job.

see, that's what I was thinking. The car comes with an oil-cooled turbo, and it can have a water cooling circuit added to it. If there's no difference in the turbo except for the W/C hardware, then ... you see where I was coming from...

Welcome to Retrofitting!

I'm changing to a watercooled EA82 turbo this weekend (along with other work)... If I hook up the watercooling circuit later, will it harm the turbo to be run with only oil cooling it? I may have an intercooler hooked up this weekend as well if that helps...

That's awesome.. (it's gymkhana IIRC ) Excuse me, what do you mean this thing has a dual range? Explain yourself young man! I noticed the lack-of-skidplatedness when I glanced at this this afternoon but I figured you'd do something about that.. ditto on trimming the fenders or installing bumpstops (maybe both).. what kind of standalone computer does it have?

OK, the parts that are outside the surface of the bore, are they adhered to the block or are they part of the broken-off part inside?

this wrench and something on the shaft. I've always jammed a long screwdriver between 2 of them, having ALSO never noticed that the shaft was square. That doesn't make clutch fans any less unpleasant to remove, though. Or install. I am a dual-electric fan proponent as well.. my trick is to slot the bottom mounting holes downward, bolt the fan on a little less than snug, and then to lock the bottom fan bolts with double-nuts on the inside of the bottom brace (welding would work fine too)... that way you retain all 4 attachment points and you don't have to crawl under the car to remove the fans. aside from the 10x11mm wrench linked above, I also have the 12x14mm and the 17x19mm.. very useful!

I'm curious, does the carpet come cut for the seat belts? Any pics of the stock carpet? (I've never seen it)

is this broken off as if the oil pump had been glued onto the front of engine? or is it broken off inside of the bore for the round section of the pump?

Hm, that car doesn't have mirrors... Do you guys ever see the fender mounted mirrors on the EA81 cars?

what did you do to your dog? (mods, this is NOT off topic.. i promise!!!)

wow. thanks for the heads-up. funny, I bought a Napa axle for my Brat shortly before selling it and it was only like $60.. did the price of EA81 axles drop? *checks WSJ *

yeah, we need to know what brand of water pump that was, so we can avoid it. It sounds as if you did the best you could... reinstalling the old waterpump would have been more bitter than being set back for 1 day..

gawd. spokane's practically dry.. i remember when it would have looked like that though...

let me try again.. we swap autos to manuals all the time in stock EA82 cars. They fit exactly the same. The EJ engine bellhousing is 1/2" or 12mm shorter than the EA engine bellhousing. The adapter makes up the difference, and the EA transmission can't tell the difference. You'll be fine with the adapter plate. Your transmission and torque converter, I dont' know. You might need a custom torque converter with an engine 150% stronger than stock..

Nice job on that. You've been putting out a lot of really good stuff over the last year or so

And there's no way that your EA series 4EAT would take the power of an EJ22TT.

this has been covered before.. the 2nd turbo interferes with the steering shaft on a LHD car... search for more gory details

The 1/2" adapter is really to make up for the EJ engine having a shallower bellhousing - it makes your transmission think it's hooked up to an EA engine. This means that it doesn't matter what EA transmission your car has - you still need the 1/2" adapter plate (if you want to get really technical, it's 11mm - if it's "crucial" as you say, then I leave it up to you as to whether 12mm is suitable). As EA-motored cars can swap between EA manual/auto trannys without adapting the bellhousing, there is no difference between their bellhousings' depth. The real issue is whether your EA 4EAT can handle the EJ engine. Best of luck!

Hmmm...

No wonder it smells so good. The oil won't trap water but it will trap corrosive chemicals, and it's bad to leave the stuff everywhere you go. You could POR15-treat the entire underside of a rust-free car over a weekend, even removing the suspension if you wanted, with a friend's help. Then double team your friend's car the next weekend. Brian/monstaru and I are probably going to do that this summer to my wagon and coupe, and to his Brat and Willys (if the Willys is ready for that yet).

I will agree that it's a lot of effort but I would debate its worthlessness. Most people who get the idea to exchange their digital dash for an analog dash don't realize the coverage this topic's gotten.. The digital and analog dashes require different components such as the fuel tank/gas gauge sensor, the oil pressure sender, and the temperature gauge sender. These must be swapped from an analog car into a digital car. Most of my research into dash swapping has concerned an EA82 dash, like yours. I believe that the EA81 dash swap is complicated by more extensive wiring harness modifications - although Rick would know more about this than I do. In the EA82, after the sending units and sensors have been swapped, the wiring has to be addressed. The plugs and the wiring pinouts are different between an analog and a digital. Swapping out the analog probably necessitates eliminating the trip computer; the trip computer is wired and integrated to the digital dash. I don't know if it's possible to hook up the trip computer to the analog dash - that may require plumbing analog and digital sensors so that the two units can receive from their required types - but if you have to remove it from the car entirely, then it will leave you with extra wires which will not be connected to the analog dash. You will need to map the wiring from the harness to the dash, so that you can either make an adapter for the harness, or modify the car's harness itself. Either way, you need to crossreference the wiring harnesses. I am not certain if the tachometer has to be modified in any way.