baccaruda

weird.. my camber's normal although I had a hell of a time with the control arm bolts (did them last) I have: 1986 GL10 Wagon 88 RX FT4WD Dual range Legacy FWD Axles / knuckles '92 Legacy Struts - KYB GR2s (maybe 1993, whatever year has the spring perches sit an inch higher) / WRX springs PK 4" lift If it matters I have the round motor mounts on my EJ and the transmission mounts and strut rod bushings are brand new.

nah, i'm just concerned with what would be printed on the diff stickers.

then 4.111 it shall be!! coming soon...

get your nit pickers ready! On a stock 3.7 LSD sticker, the gear ratio reads "3.700." On a stock 3.9 LSD sticker, the gear ratio reads "3.900." (right?) On a stock 4.11 LSD sticker... would it read "4.110" or "4.111"? It has three decimal places so I'm not sure which it would be... If you wonder why I'm asking you'll have to wait a while :brow:

Qman's over 6" and he said he fits fine with XT/XT6 seats transplanted into his Brat. The XTseries seats sit lower. I can personally affirm that they sit lower, as I'm 5'5" and I had to adjust the XTs in my brat all the way up to see out

this could also be the hub having stripped out as well. Take off the hubcap or whatever, when you do this, so you can see the axle nut as well. If it spins, the hub is toast and the axle may or may not have been harmed.

nice job! that looks perfect.

I think you're right, Skip.. and look at the custom radiator support / intercooler bracketry.. that front clip is probably just for a test fit...

That looks cool.. I'd suggest a headrest for the rearmost passengers as well, and an additional rollbar in the back might be good as well.. then you can make a canvas top for it...

upload to http://www.imageshack.us then copy the very bottom code it offers you ... click on the icon of the photo (yellow) and paste the code, hit enter.

Mike, thanks anyway Pat, that's awesome. Thanks. That explains why the drain passage underneath is so wide. I took a good look at the turbo area today and it looks as if the oil feed line to the turbo comes straight from the oil pump. I'm certain that it's downstream of the stock oil cooler (which also comes straight off of the oil pump) because why wouldn't they give the turbo the coolest oil possible? So, maybe there's no need to add an oil cooler right before the turbo. But.. I need to change the oxygen sensor. I need to remove the turbo to do this, I'm pretty sure, and the header and downpipe gaskets need to be changed, and I might as well change the oil drain hose, and maybe change to a watercooled turbo while I'm at it. AND I'll be receiving my intercooler this week as well. So I'll have plenty of time to figure it out while I'm in there..

I have an extra "cooler" from an EA81T oil cooler setup. I think I might put it inline with the turbo and integrate it with the intercooler, for obvious reasons. Would it be better to put it upstream of the turbo or downstream?

Holy Flintstones!

hm. and what would you say is the ratio of feedback cars produced vs. nonfeedback, and is it possibe or easy to put a nonfeedback setup in a feedback car? My Brat's new owner is having the same troubles with the carb that I did, and it's a feedback model as it had an O2 sensor as well as duty solenoids...

Rick, is there an easy way to tell under the hood if a car is a feedback model or not?

Richie, do you have any straight-on side shots of the blue coupe below? My new coupe is the same color and I have a set of the aluminum body cladding for a coupe; i'd love to see what mine would look like if you have a side shot? have a banana

looks sharp..

You'd love your SnoBuggy more with an EJ22

here, give this a try http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=363386

Hm.. I'd ask a driveline shop, I have no idea why Subaru went out of their way to put a torx in there. Maybe the head's a lower profile than a standard bolt or something... but it sounds worthwhile. good luck

could be that as well.. my toe looked straight until i put the control arm bolts in (last), then i had to readjust the toe. Consider the spring compressor as well though.. good luck!

you're welcome and good luck!

I respect others' suggestions to chase the threads, but if it's not too far in there, I wouldn't bother, as the threads are so coarse that they'll self-correct if you can get it to line up straight. wait, if the manifold's off the car, then yeah, inspect the threads... and maybe just get a new manifold if they're chewed up.

I like the one with the guy on the aluminum ladder in a FULL swimming pool drilling over his head into the ceiling... here we go!!