baccaruda

"in a pinch" i would chase down the snap-on truck before using a socket that would probably round off the bolt, which means that you would have to cut off the axle stub to get under the bead of the bolt. They're easy to round off even with the proper socket. Get the torx.

IIRC it's larger diameter and the thread is coarser as well. Make sure that the pipe doesn't have any bracketry holding it to the engine or holding something else to the pipe.. I don't recall if there is anything. Try loosening the pipe at the engine and then remove the pipe from the manifold.. get it threaded properly into the manifold by observing the direction in which it feels misaligned, then leverage the pipe away so that you can feel less resistance when turning the nut in.. and push the pipe straight into the fitting. You want to pressurize it positively. Pushing it straight into the fitting will help to pull it in the proper direction to fit straight. You should be able to see if the nut is parallel or misaligned while threading it in. You may have to adjust and push the pipe in and straight if it feels to bind up. Then thread it into the engine afterward as GD says it's the easier connection. You may have to pressurize that fitting as well.

I think it's worth adapting the cushion so there's less stress on it. Those are about $20 from the dealer IIRC. My car is lifted so I put in a threaded spacer so i could bolt it securely without stressing it (I replaced all of the car's shifter bushings and couldn't see the logic of ruining the most expensive one faster). Comparing the way the shifter felt before, it felt smoother after I put in the spacer.

I installed the bottom control arm bolts last and I honestly have to say it was one of the most difficult things I've had to do in a while. If you had your control arm bolts in before the struts/knuckle bolts then your difficulty would have been similar to mine as it was your last point to close. I think it's because I have taller Legacy struts with WRX springs on the front of mine; it looks to ride pretty high in front. I will be using a spring compressor on the struts whenever i have to take the front end apart as it will facilitate the the proper seating of the control arm bushing; it was sitting in the crossmember bracket sort of swiveled out, pivoted as from the strut rod bushing.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=14957&group_ID=2358

I'd blame it on the tradeoff that gives the EA82 lower compression but keeps it a noninterference motor. The EA81 maybe not so much. That point about the coolant crossover is good too. Jacobs, the muffler bearing isn't really the issue, it's the fact that they didn't properly clearance the interocitor housing. If you shim out the poiuyt valve you get better flow transference between them and you can scavenge 5-7% of nonoptimized horsepower.

A transmission shop might be able to spec out an "intermediate" torque converter that would fit both generations...

That wagon looks to have the touring roof; it's a couple inches taller than regular wagons. It would be harder to photoshop the wagon because of the low image resolution (camera phone IMO) than because of the background... nice looking car still!

nice job; i love the way those sedans look in good repair. Subaru transmissions like half synthetic/half natural gear oil. Why don't you drain a little of your gear oil and put in a half bottle of ATF for a few days, then drain and refill with 50/50? Have you thought about putting in a 4WD trans?

I heard about that! I'm strongly considering it. Meaning that if a used one doesn't surface for less soon (soon = when I need an FSM to fix my car) I will probably get one .. thanks!

Presumably you could modify the flexplate by altering the bolt pattern, just like with the flywheel.

Tomorrow will be my first really good day to go over the car. I want to attend to this problem soon! Rob, thanks for the suggestions. I will inspect the car with those in mind and I welcome other suggestions as well. I think it smells like a wiring repair so far

So when the car's turned off.. stepping on the brake pedal makes the dashboard lighting and the headlights come on halfway... I'm in the market for an FSM but without one, I'd prefer to get some other people's feedback before I dive in. Any thoughts, anyone? One of the dash lights is a little red "!" in a circle, under the car-shaped readout for the doors and such. I don't have an owner's manual but I might guess that it's the brake fluid sensor? Thanks...

your 2nd pic is pretty much right on, including the angle at which the arrow is pointed. You'd want do drill a small pilot hole all the way through and then enlarge and tap just enough meat for the zerk. The grease would squirt down the pilot hole... Now that I have Legacy knuckles on my wagon I'm probably not going to need to worry about this

uh, do that to mine too plz

Hey, I remember this. I never got around to doing this Wouldn't the extra grease just squirt out of the slot in the cone washer, when you tighten the axle nut? I guess I'm assuming that it would be best for the greaseable area to be "full." So if you have the axle installed and in the hub, but haven't yet torqued down the axle nut, you could fill the area between the two bearings to capacity and it would eventually circulate through the bearings and the grease would in theory never get below a certain threshod of quality. You always lose some when removing the axleshaft anyway..

Thanks!

I have a feeling you're right. My coupe wants it.

thanks

Will the pass-through back seats bolt into an EA81 coupe initially equipped with a stationary back seat? Would I have to chop out the crosspieces behind the seat back in the trunk? I'd like to fix up the interior in my coupe a little. Also, were the EA81 pass throughs only in 4-door sedans, or only in GL10s or??? thanks!

I've had decent luck with Napas; others here like to order from cvaxles.com

Yeah, both doors need it. That was a noisy drive home from Portland and I might want to wash the car sometime - outside only Thanks, Rob... did JCW sell it in bulk or specifically for the car?

try flushing/bleeding your brake fluid; it absorbs water over time and the water is responding to the cold.