baccaruda

Rick: nice. it *was* an EA82 that needed the choke fix! and it sure isn't accelerating... i'll search up on accelerator pumps... thanks and I'd figured that the carb dying while unplugged was caused by being unplugged.. man that was annoying though! thanks. Kody: PM sent, let's talk! thanks.

I don't know... last time I had a choke spring break on a subaru, I couldn't start the darn thing (in cold weather)... I'll pull the air cleaner off and tap on the choke assembly and see if it twangs... This car starts with no problems at all... :confused::confused:

1983 Brat, hitachi 2bbl So: the carb has a stumble at low throttle and perhaps a moderate power loss, noticeable when going up hills. Enough that I have to go up -loud- in 2nd instead of politely in 3rd. It feels like the primary circuit isn't doing much. When I start the car (engine cold), it starts with absolutely no problem and it has loads of power for a couple of minutes. Then when something kicks in, it gets lazy and when I start to pedal it, it'll stumble and then pick up if I rev it more than I should need to. It does that in connection with the engine RPMs, regardless of if it's idling or driving in any gear. After the car is fully warmed up (needle on the gauge's middle-mark), it will respond without the stumble but still with what feels like a mild power loss. The power loss could be timing but it doesn't ping (it did a little when at high RPMS while it was hot out, I figure that's pretty normal) The problem is less significant now, with the cold weather, than it was in the summer. It was REALLY bad then. I don't know what the crap is wrong with it and I'm selling the brat very soon. I know that the Weber is a great solution but there's no way I'm going to make that happen to a car I'm about to sell. I would appreciate any help with this... I also should disclose: When I got the free 85k mile hydro motor and 4speed, the motor of course still had the carb on it, and that would be this carb. I put the new driveline in the brat and found that the wiring harnesses were different between the '86 engine and the '83 body. I swapped all of the '83 doodads and wiring off of the old engine onto the '86, and as I have a FSM, I had the proper vacuum diagrams. I am very certain that the vacuum is all routed correctly. Also, after the motor swap but before the doodad swap-back, I didn't have the engine wiring harness plugged in. The car would die if I didn't feed it gas, but the throttle had No Hesitation Whatsoever. I highly doubt that the carb is "bad" either. thanks. edit 10/24 re: starts with no problem

I'm keeping the A/C equipment in my car so the info I posted above is intended to fit around all that...

I am going to mount an EA81 "skinny" fan on the grille-side of the A/C condenser; this will necessitate the removal of the center support and the hood latch (you wanted hood pins anyway!). Just last weekend, I got a very small and slim fan from a Toyota Supra that might fit on the engine side, between the A/C condenser and the power steering pump. I haven't tested the fit yet. supra:

if she was drinking, sue her.

haven't seen one with that paint job.. was that west second or east second?

sobriety

If so, it would likely cost a lot more than a used Escort distributor and the 2 hand files you'd need to get the Escort distributor modifed I just looked through the ACCEL catalog and searched on MSD's website and found nothing.

nah, save space by posting here. You can probably edit the title and first post to reflect that.. The shifter bushings aren't that hard to replace (one of them is right next to the driveshaft) and they don't cost much.

THERE we go. I looked for this thread and just couldn't find it.. I was looking for "brat" instead of "baja." derhhh... The first wagon in that thread was at WCSS. They cleaned up the surface a little bit (re: rust) IIRC. It's not a show-quality job but still Very Cool. Obviously it would be neat if the hatch opened... more work though

hey, how do I get a custom user title?

if it's the black spoiler, it is glued on. $100's not bad. check out the oil pump and water pump while you're in there, maybe do the cam seals too.

the turning issue is most likely separate.. things to check include but are not limited to: strut rod bushings ball joint tie rod end (unlikely I think) bad CV axle / loose axle nut / missing roll pin at trans bad wheel bearings lugnuts on tight? probably. transmission mounts OK? brake caliper - loose or ??? good luck! well, wait.. you would probably have been steering to the left when passing the truck... hm. no idea...

what exactly is broken about your radiator? and how? the weekend is not exactly the best time to call around looking for car parts; I'll bet your luck will change when the new week starts. Also, this thread will probably get moved to Classifieds >>> Wanted, just so you know why if/when it disappears.

hey, I've got an opinion too! That is a horrific case of rust. If you completely gut the interior of the car and drop everything off of the bottom, and if you have parts & sheetmetal from a donor car or MAD fab skillz, then it could be done. I'm sure there are people who have resurrected hemicudas and other more collectible unibodies from worse. I would say that the colossal effort and expense involved would probably rule out such efforts with any Subaru.

Yeah, I was (one of) the first that spoke with that guy and I had a similar impression. Noah, pretty soon I'll be making shirts of you!

that's not going to last long!

yeah, if you're going to put a diesel in it, you might as well gain power instead of possibly lose it... unfortunately the situation is very much "you get what you pay for" :/

hey, hands off Billy Joel!

you can cut the brake line bracket with a hacksaw - right in the middle - and spread it open to avoid opening the brake lines. Cut the new strut's bracket as well and afterwards it will stay bent closed as well as allow use of the retaining clip.

I'm going to have a bung welded into the top of mine for a bleeder of some sort. It doesn't help you now, of course.... maybe park with the car tilted so that the radiator cap is at the higher end?

nice job!

people have drilled out their cars' stock control arms before. I don't know that a taper is necessary..

What have you got for brakes now? The wagon has XT6 in front and in back. I haven't yet driven it post-lift, post-5lug swap, and post-EJ22 so I have no idea how mine's going to feel compared to last time!