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baccaruda

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Everything posted by baccaruda

  1. your insurance company might investigate more aggressively than the police.. good luck.
  2. change the pump anyway, then if it still reads funny, check the connection to the sender, check the ground wires under the hood (they probably need help after this long), change the sender, or install an aftermarket gauge. In that order good luck!
  3. I'm planning to use the relays already in the car... wouldn't that be easier? It would conceal the wires more easily and be less work than adding relays to the car...
  4. thanks! note the braided stainless steel power steering lines.. i would have been happy with high pressure rubber but i like them I also have stainless steel brake lines as well..
  5. you stole mine too! (and apparently finished the EJ wiring )
  6. You are talking about switching out the strut top. It needs to match the car that is being worked on, so to put the EA81 strut top on the EA82 struts you'd want a spring compressor. (nice time to get new struts or RX springs ) That is literally the only EA81 part you'll have in the front suspension if you have a complete EA82 front end available to you. I'd imagine you could run the EA82 front sway bar as well, without any clearance problems. This has the added benefit of allowing you to swap in an XT4's steering rack which has a tighter turning ratio!
  7. I thought it was in the transmission.. cause there isn't anything connected to the gearshift to tell the car what gear it's in..... it may look like a brass plug of sorts...
  8. if the front differentials are the same part number - with different ring gears - then it should fit without grinding. I doubt that the ring gears themselves are sized differently between ratios - they're just cut differently. Shawn's got to be right about the builder recalling the rear differential. Noah, I'd guess that it's better to use the Legacy ring gear on the original center - because the rear differential center needs the bolt holes enlarged as the 4.11 ring gear accepts larger bolts than the 3.7. I'd wonder if the same is with the rear? As you would have to swap the Legacy pinion gear,why bother.
  9. no, you can make a 4.11 r160. you have to drill out the holes which secure the ring gear to the chunk, as the bolts are larger.
  10. I am doing a swap from a digital dash to an analog one at the same time I wire up my EJ22. (car is a 1986 w/ orange dash & flapper MAF) and I intend to have a diagram to share regarding that particular dash swap after I'm done with it.
  11. daeron, you can totally help! we need someone to donate a front LSD! whatcha got?
  12. BUMP cause this is going to come in handy reeeeeeal soon....
  13. the compressor clutch comes off with a single allen screw in the middle on models i've seen. I think they're all similarly easy to change.
  14. outlets for the ATF to receive cooling? I don't think those would work..
  15. Here's my list: conversion page notes homemade adapter plates may not center the bellhousings relative to each other (via the 4 pins on the sides), paying for a precision laser/CNC cut plate may be worth it. If the bellhousings are not centered perfectly, it will pressurize the transmission input shaft in the direction of the misalignment, risking failure of the transmission input shaft front bearing. (thanks to Jerry/bratsrus) in the back of the EJ engine - in addtion to replacing the crank pulley, replace the O-ring in the small cover on the driver's side, and reseal the large cover on the passenger's side - watch out for the plastic cover vs metal, "upgrade" to metal if you have the plastic cover, as the plastic's prone to failure. clutch - xt6/heavy duty pressure plate is necessary, clutch disc is generic between XT6/etc EA82 crossmember accepts the motor mount holes without widening (round EJ mounts) EJ mounts may have a centering nipple that needs to be ground off as there is no receiving hole in the EA crossmember as there is in the EJ crossmember. radiator hoses flex hose is really stiff and not recommended for use in a lifted rig as the bends are very sharp - this could compromise the inlets on the radiator over time EA81 skinny fan fits fine in front of A/C condenser - with the radiator support and hood latch removed. Replace the center radiator support with two "1/3" supports (?) and use hood pins. May not flow enough air though, haven't driven it yet. Tube bumper instead of stock will help with airflow. EJ22 Y-pipe may rub on the crossmembers - shim it down by stacking an extra flange onto the y-pipe's flanges? (1cm drop) weld a bung for EA82 temp sensor into actual radiator? (EJ sensor not compatible with EA gauge, add EA sensor separately from ECU's circuit with the EJ sensor) I also have a really nice looking install of the EJ MAF to the EA airbox... This is a run of the mill hardware store clamp of some sort.. It has a rubber liner inside of the steel clamp. I cut the rubber liner lengthwise and narrowed the diameter by a few cm and glued it back to itself with black RTV silicone, to great effect. I then glued it onto the intake boot with more RTV and slightly beveled the lip inside the sleeve.. one end of the tube is a little narrower than the other IIRC. I could get more of these from wherever-I-got-them if anybody would like. For my lower radiator hose (my radiator has the outlets modified to match the size of the EJ22, with the lower outlet given a right angle bend down) I will use Napa #9521. A right angle bend is not optimal as it reduces the clearance between the outlet and the radiator support corner brace; 45deg. would have been better, or building the outlet to come an extra 1/2" - 1" from the radiator before bending down would have been better. The part number for the heater hoses I used is Napa #10868 (x2). Each is a long hose with a right angle bend at each end. I trimmed a few inches out of the middle of each, making 4 shorter hoses with right angle bends. Then I put right angle heater hose elbow from the "HELP!" aisle at the auto parts store to push them up over the starter, wiring, etc.
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