baccaruda

Shpectacular, and yes. did you get her number?

Nice job, Eric. That car deserves the work you've put into it! How many miles have you put on it? I have to ask why you decided a 1-piece driveshaft wouldn't work for you? I would also love to see some under-car shots of that trailer hitch if it's ever possible.. I think there are a couple of sunroof cars at the yard, are you still looking for an extra glass?

if it stopped that fast, it was probably slipping the clutch when you popped it. the worst that can come of this is that you need to swap in a new longblock. Those are easily had for ~$100..

yeah, brake cleaner would degrease your bearings, bad idea.. I don't think a rubber mallet would do anything to a stuck backing plate, because when they're stuck, they're STUCK. Your arm will get tired from giving it 50-100 whacks with the sledge. have fun

I think that the control arms are the same as long as they both have sway bar brackets. Get your PB Blaster and squirt off the hub, then clean it all off with a wire brush. Do it again. Squirt some PB behind the backing plate. Don't pry on it or it will bend. Use your sledgehammer (small, not big) to rotate the backing plate like Pat said. Pull out on it, without bending it, while you alternate the directions you're tapping. Clean off the hub with more PB when it looks gross.

Hey Corky, I know you work for Boeing, but if you don't mind, what are the two companies of which you speak? I might guess that one is geology related?

yeah, both of my turbowagons were fully-equipped GL10s (OK, minus the air suspension). A/C didn't work in either though (needed charging).

here we go. I'd been thinking of this thread here. I have replaced the radiators in both of my EA82T wagons (the 2nd of which is my EJ swap vehicle) and tracked down 2-row radiators for both cases. I never had any overheating problems, and I ran them without the clutch fans as well because I hate doing maintenance with those in the way and I hate removing and reinstalling them. I think that the combination of the blocky front bumper and the single row radiator might be the cause of the poor cooling people cite. Thankfully, I have a big fat tube bumper to run up front that will be much less restrictive

I have a list of tips and suggestions that I'm working on, and a picture to take of my heater hoses; I have a napa part # for them that will yield a really clean look. and since you asked, "grammar" is spelled as such

on the subject, you've mentioned in EJ conversion threads (was it you, Rick?) that "the EA81 radiators flow better than the EA82s"... but I recall that someone else declared that the EA82s' front bumpers block a lot of airflow due to the wedge-like front bumper. I've changed a few radiators in both series of cars and they're so close to the same dimensions, and the inlet/outlets are very similar, that it occurs to me that the design of the front of the EA82 is probably the cause of the difference perceived.. I'd been thinking about that and wanted to throw it out for discussion..

anti-seize is for things that you wish to remove again sometime, threadlocker is for things that you want to stay there use threadlocker when installing the studs and use anti-seize, if you wish, on the nuts after the exhaust pipe is mounted. I don't know that it's really necessary if you take your car apart as often as most of us do... don't forget the lockwashers...

yeah, tell people it's a limited edition and they'll perceive it as more desireable.

regarding transmission mounts, how often do you have front axle boot failure? If the transmission mounts are bad, the axles will take up the slack and fail more often... and regarding torxxxxxxx's advice, the strut rod bushings are super easy to replace and very inexpensive, you might just go through the whole front end of the car...

check your front ball joints and tie rod ends.. and strut rod bushings.. and motor mounts.. and transmission mounts. start with the ball joints and strut rod bushings, they're the least expensive.

what was it doing?

well, i have a different series (1990) of wiring harness to deal with, and your gremlins are pretty well resolved by now.. Let me get back to you and don't listen to Brian

I don't think they made a gold grille logo. You could call some places that chrome plastic pieces (some sort of vacuum process) and see what it would cost to "match" it.

I've had interest in this for a while. The best engine, IMO, would be a VW 1.9 TDI. It fits inside the engine bay (although you may need to elevate the trans, and that would affect the axles).. and its dry weight is only 300 lbs. It is roughly comparable, performancewise, to an EJ22. uhm, I should say that "it fits inside the engine bay.. of a lifted EA82." I have the dimensions written down somewhere. You might still end up with a power bulge in the hood. I have yet to break ground on this... I don't even have my EJ22 swap running!

that's a good idea.. altering the bracket to fit closer or further is another option.

before.

I just use a silver antiseize crayon on the stubs; I've never had a problem with stuckness..

It's even better if you watch it backwards!

Electronic cleaner is a gentler solvent than carb cleaner or brake cleaner. And it would be best to make sure it's all evaporated before starting the car.. especially as electronic cleaner evaporates slower than carb or brake cleaner.

The Loyale bodies likely have threaded attachment points or holes for sheet metal screws in the proper places, but the wiring for older accessories might not be there... good luck.

I wouldn't zap the header, but you might be able to grind the crossmember where it rubs.. I think if you lift the engine by 1/4" that you'd be fine, as the transmission mounts would absorb the change in the angle. You might lift the transmission by 1/4" as well, but then you might have problems with the shift linkage rubbing somewhere, and then you'd have another adjustment to make, and so on.. What do you think about dropping the header by 1/4"? Get some spacer plates in the shape of the exhaust port flanges and either weld them to the header's flange or get an extra pair of exhaust gaskets. You might need to install longer exhaust studs, in which case you should helicoil the heads as well.