baccaruda

I would suggest that you inspect and augment the major grounding points on your car. Also consider splicing into the radio's ground and instead of letting it ground through the harness, consider running a shorter ground driectly to the chassis somewhere... When I have my cigarette-lighter cell phone charger plugged in, my radio is more staticky. I could ground the cigarette lighter more heavily and probably end that.

I'd try changing the sensor and seeing if it fixes it, even if it repeats what it just did.. if the shielding is more for the sensor than for the wire, then your sensor may have gotten fried somehow...

you can almost see the Grim Reaper dancing on top of that crane, right in the middle of the boom!

it's still pretty cool.. my plan is to get 4 of the work lights for mounting on trucks and put them under the hood...

"modified to XT6 specs" means having it lightened. You don't have to do this, just have it turned smooth.

Loyale manuals were all 5 speed cars and the differential hangers and driveshafts are different. All of the rear end stuff needs to come from an EA81 car (with the diff matched to the transmission as you said). This would be a great time to put in a 5 speed though... the Loyales didn't come with dual range transmissions though, and those are generally favored over single range 5-speeds. You will also need to swap in the pedal rack from an EA81 manual, and you will need to drill/cut the appropriately sized hole for the clutch cable. Some years of EA81s had a simpler style of clutch cable which is easier to change (and will be easier to install).. I don't know which years are which but my 1983 (brat) has the simple style...

If you can get his license plate #, report him to the cops. Is this on the same road each time or what???

haha.. you win the thread!

paper mache body panels?

how many plugs come off of the engine for 1992, 2 or 3? my 1990 harness has three...

nice work! can you give details regarding the ECU pin that corresponds to that wire?

gut the interior, switch side glass from glass to lexan, lose the rear wiper and all exterior trim, go manual mirrors vs power, go manual windows vs power AND ditch 3 of the window cranks, all 4 can share 1, just crank-crank-pass. You are no longer allowed carpet or a fuel door, toss the A/C and heater, the glovebox can go in the pile too, as can the passenger sunvisor and all Oh S#!T handles... alloy wheels vs. steel, helium in the tires vs. oxygen, wash off all grease and crap from the undercarriage AND inside the fenders, and put in a 3-gallon gas tank - unused fuel is extra weight :cool: oh, and drill holes in every non-load bearing surface that is not aerodynamically necessary.

The holes on the EJ crank are the same size, but they're a little bit further out from the center. They are also uniformly spaced, whereas the EA series crank/flywheel has one hole that is off-center relative to the rest, so that the flywheel can only be installed one way - this insures that the timing marks are where they need to be. The EJ series of course does not use timing marks... I chose to have my flywheel balanced after its modification. Not all swappers have done this... my cost was $30 FYI. My solution to the exhaust, after pounding the crap out of a few select spots and considering taking my grinder & flap disc to selected areas of the crossmember, shall be to obtain extra flanges from the parts yard and weld them to the tops of the Y-pipe's flanges. This will drop the whole Y-pipe about a centimeter, giving all the rough spots the remaining clearance they need while also allowing for some twist when the driveline torques.

heheh.. yeah, I was there.. You showed me that gear you had been working on

what, are you an engineer or something?

hurry up and post, bro! I'm wiring my car next week and good job!

well, nobody's going to commit without knowing prices anyway.

so it only shakes when you're stopping? I'll list these thoughts anyway, you're not a n00b, but you might be goofy on those pills the dentist gave you *mud on axles *wheel bearings damaged *mud on driveshaft *tire treads not thoroughly cleaned *loose suspension components (lift blocks, struts, ball joints, etc) *gremlins

Hey Brian, while you've got that out, how are those coolant and oil hoses under the turbo looking? *hint hint*

yeah, he got that.. go over the timing belts again, it can't hurt.. make sure the left and right sprockets are on left and right.. see if there are any codes to be cleared or addressed...

Captain Whacky at your service! Putting faces to fake names just adds a whole new dimension to this hobby. I really feel that the USMB website and the internet in general add a lot to a hobby of tinkering; perhaps the relative low density of Subaru nuts in the Spokane area is affecting my opinion, but working on and driving the cars are no more than half of the fun - networking and benchracing and cooperative innovating really set the hobby apart from the dependence on chance encounters with other owners. I am slowly torturing the life into a T-shirt sales website and my business cards say "Andy Mikelson and friends" because I enjoy involving friends with similar ideas and ambitions, and with relevant technical skills. Nobody does anything alone and enjoys it as much as we enjoy this.

dude, no need for concrete, that mud pit is close enough, just add a little aggregate! ***************************************************** thanks a bunch to everyone. If I was a west-sider I would totally get involved with the organizating... Brian and I were the last to roll out (cause of all that crap I had to pack up ) and we thanked the guys with the Subaru truck before we left... I'm glad I finally made it to a WCSS and I will not miss another one!

You're lucky that your organized-toolbox freak friend brought his toolbox. We never discussed the price for that axle pin, did we? Spark, it was great to meet you!

clogged injectors?

don't forget the