baccaruda

that's a hell of an ordeal, Rob. You should have towed the RX to the show and we could have fixed it and had an impromptu clinic Rob's hatch completely OWNED the mud pit. He had zero trouble with any of it; several subarus, all (3) of the toyotas, and a samurai had all gotten stuck and the pit was at its worst and wettest, and dark to boot. and I want a coolant level sensor too.. looks like BMWs have them as well. Ebay wants around $25ish but they could likely be had at the parts yard...

That's why monstaru and I are leaving Spo at 5am

EA82 Subarus -4WDs anyway- came with either bump stops (black rubber nosecone looking things) or sway bars. You could swap in some sway bar control arms, and then chop & weld the bump stop platforms on your old arms .. this would be easier than adding sway bar bracketry to your existing control arms, and you're going to have to find sway bar control arms anyway.

yeah, someone probably overtorqued it or something. I'd wonder if a knuckle - minus the disc brake backing plate - could fit in a Postal Flat Rate box? less than $9 to ship...

those numbers are probably from whatever casting/production batch produced those knuckles.

Make sure the washer that goes between the cone washer and the axle nut isn't on the wrong way; it's got a curve to it .. I can't recall which way it goes right now though. I think the curve should point inward, so the axle nut catches the edges and the cone washer receives pressure from the curved side... someone will correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure.

It's more of a courtesy than anything else. Raven, you're the "professional auto thief," you should be all over this!

If I saw that Brat I would walk straight up to it and lick it. Dang that's nice.

All of the sensors from your current interference engine will work with the hybrid block Shawn suggested, so you could retain your current computer with it.

diffs are 60 pounds.

can you just swap out the long blocks? Just keep the interference motor's manifold and doodads ?

you can get new trans mounts from the dealer ($30ish each I think, maybe less if you buy them from a USMB-friendly dealer) and sometimes for a lot less on ebay.

Yeah, I agree about the heat as the main factor. I took a look at everything last night and it looks like the worst part will be securely mounting the ECU to the steering column, as the mounts are different.

Allright, you guys win *grumble* I'll put it under the dash where it belongs.

I don't mind soldering but I'm not yanking all of the old wiring, and I don't want to drill new holes in the firewall.

I am nearing completion of my EJ22 swap. I am considering mounting the ECU under the hood, for simplicity's sake. This will also leave the car closer to stock in case it ever needs an EA82 again as well as make it easier to pull codes. I am interested in what others have done to waterproof their ECUs when located under the hood. So far I've found GSI's waterproof Lexan boxes (bottom of the page; #73510 Large just needs a couple of holes drilled and RTV'ed by the looks of it) and even though they're here in SpoVegas, and even though it seems about perfect, you all know me well enough to know that I'm going to ask for other ideas anyway. Whatcha got?

I've only gone through 10 Subarus, and now I feel like a slacker!

yeah, they're almost back on

OK, I'll solder it back on (easier now with the harness taped up)

sounds like you're in luck. read about turbo timers for more on pre-shutdown idling.

What has everyone done as far as retaining or junking the OBD / select monitor connectors when wiring in your swaps? I'm leaning toward junking them as I can always pull codes by reading the ECU's LED.

incinerators burn their stuff at MUCH higher temperatures than a heater or any home appliance; this results in a much lower nastiness content in the fumes...

You may not have a shorted speaker wire; our older subarus ground the speakers in a different manner; they're either grounded to the frame or they're grounded through the positive wire, I don't know which it is. You can swap speakers in Subarus all day long, but if you add a deck that isn't stock, you have to run new speaker wires so that the speakers are grounded the same way the deck is. Your speakers are probably fine but your deck may be toast. Crutchfield could reasonably have been expected to tell you this... best of luck.

OK, how's this? Crack a valve cover bolt loose, then immediately start turning it the other way to tighten it. You'll find that you could easily tighten it far past where it had previously set. Pat's comment about choking down on the ratchet so that you are turning the ratchet not by its handle but by its head - reducing the torque you apply to it - is right on... you'll be more sensitive to how tight it feels with less torque.