baccaruda

You can have: Fast Cheap Reliable pick any two!

Schuck's, for one, recycles engine oil and gear oil. In Spokane, we can take miscellaneous nasty crap to the incinerator and they will "safely" dispose of it by burning it if it's nonrecyclable. If you have no recycling facility that can receive such fluids, I'd call a service shop for brakes/radiators/etc and ask them about disposal. Many such places are charged fees for their disposal needs so thy may pass such fees onto you if you go through them. good luck!

although it's less likely if the action on the lutch feels OK, it may be a defective clutch... good luck..

Is the leak coming from where the hydraulic lines thread into the rack? Is the leak coming from inside the boots on the sides (the boots that surround the inner tie rods)?

I'm not clear on where the leak is coming from, are you saying that it's leaking from the radiator cap?

I'll see you your subie full of bricks and I'll raise you a Jetta with a crapload of plywood! (click) (fixed.. apparently Snopes doesn't allow hotlinking!)

and if the calipers are smaller but the pads are the same, then the difference must lie in how much pressure the calipers exert.

1) I think I've read that the Phantoms are overpriced (bang vs. buck) but I have zero experience with them. 2) lower mileage is better, obviously, and gear ratios can be changed, but all stock LSDs are the same AFAIK. As long as the fluid's clean and approved for LSD use, you're good to go.

you CAN run with the driveshaft pulled and without losing fluid. There is a super-secret modification you can perform which prevents loss of fluid. You need: An intact CV boot. A 5-speed gearshift knob. A large and a small hose clamp. 1) Cram the gearshift knob (bottom-first) into and through the small opening of the CV boot so that the knob is inside the CV boot and the threaded end is sticking out of the opening. Do not "slide" it or "stick" it or "pop" it in, it must be "crammed." 2) Clamp the boot around the knob. It's not likely to slip back into the boot due to the tight fit, but why take chances? 3) Slip the wide opening of the boot over your driveshaft-less transmission and clamp it down. You now have a silly-looking although functional cap which will limit your fluid leakage to the amount of volume inside of the CV boot. Add fluid as therefore necessary. I will be offering pre-made kits for this purpose for $60 shipped

It does not have a turbo. Its code is ER27; it's basically an EA82 with an extra two cylinders. Check out http://www.xt6.net

Because it has power steering and A/C with snow tires, $1200 would be fair for this car if it were rust-free. I think that the quality of the rust repair job could affect the value a lot, obviously. We on the USMB are used to getting older Subarus at below-market prices, though. On a dealer's lot, this car would easily command what he's asking.

Aah, I see Pat paid his physics bill this month! Verray nice! Miles Fox wins the Easy Answer prize. I personally hate the strap wrenches; i've had a couple of gears get messed up with them.

You don't need a torque wrench. You don't have to use SOA gaskets; most gaskets you will find for the valve covers are cork. After removing the valve covers and scraping the old gasket junk off of the cover and off of the engine (cover the valves and such with a cloth so you keep them free of scrapings), you will need to apply gasket sealant to the new gaskets. My favorite strategy is to put some gasket sealant on the cover side of the gasket and put the gasket on the cover, then use white lithium grease on the engine side of the gasket. The use of white lithium grease will still seal the gasket but it will not adhere to the engine; this allows for reuse of the gasket if you have to remove the valve covers for anything. When you torque them, if it feels like you haven't tightened them enough, you actually have. If you overtighten them, you risk splitting or flattening the gasket and it will not seal.

I'd do a compression test on any EA82T before buying it. The turbo motors are more vulnerable to abusive driving and lackluster maintenance.

I wouldn't drive on it as it could cost you the axle stub and KO your tranny for a while. If it's close enough, it may interfere with the steering linkage as well.. I can't recall how the clearance in that area works though, that may not be an issue. You still have some daylight left today to try to knock that thing out...

washing your car more than once a year (guilty!) and keeping it waxed will reduce friction over the entire surface... also keep the tire pressure properly monitored.

If you have the front of the car jacked up (and the rear wheels blocked) you can rotate the axle so that you can get to the top from the bottom. Be careful the car can't roll, because the E-brake is in the front. You can jack up just the driver's side but you'll still want the rear wheel chocked (on the passenger's side) as you'll need the E-brake released to rotate the axle.

transverse = devil WVO = yes please

I've got WRX front springs, '92 Legacy GR2s I have a feeling that it will handle the weight as well. The VW 1.9 is a cast iron block with an aluminum head, and I had expected it to weigh closer to 500lbs, based on what I'd read about other (although older) 4cyl diesels.

Me too. I have XT6 front calipers and I have stainless steel brake lines. I will have to bench bleed my master cylinder and I was thinking in terms of squeezing in an upgrade while it's dry...

I am considering an eventual VW 1.9TDI swap for my 1986 wagon. Can you say biodiesel Subaru? The EA82 weighs 180lbs. The VW 1.9 TDI weighs 300 lbs (dry weight). Is it going to be safe or practical to put a 300-lb engine in an EA82 subaru? My feeling is that the frame would be OK and that I might want to beef up the crossmember. I am not going to own a gasoline-engine'd vehicle for more than a couple more years. If I can swap in a lightweight turbodiesel engine I will likely keep my Subaru for a while. If I can't, I will probably move on from Subarus when the time comes. I've been reading about the VW 1.9 TDI for a while now, and I think it's an excellent candidate for this purpose, but I'd like to hear from some experts about how the car itself will hold up... thanks a lot!

thanks.

It's '87 or later, or at least its bumpers and corner marker lights are...

nah, you can just yank the mustache bar and differential, and take out the halfshafts with the differential. Yank the gas tank too, and if you're using a rear disc car, yank the calipers.

I will be doing the same thing this weekend. It's funny, having enough experience with wrenching, you know exactly what kind of noise to expect from certain things... this would make a high pitched squeak at all times... definitely not acceptable!