baccaruda

you can put an intercooler on it anytime you want. As it will add to the volume of air in the turbo system, it will increase boost lag a little, retarding your performance off the line, but not much. It will not harm your engine. If you start increasing the boost pressure (one way to reduce turbo lag) without attending to air/fuel ratios and timing and such, that is when you get into trouble damaging the engine with running lean or too hard or whatever. My advice would be to intercool the engine and then chop out the bottom of the airfilter box. Search on that and you'll see why; it will more than offset any turbo lag from adding a WRX intercooler.

I don't know, that canvas top's got me thinking... and an 80's 4-runner cabin rollbar is almost perfect for those wagons

that's cool... but I found this in an ollllld thread..

where did your lines break at? Do you have hydraulic fitting wrenches (flare nut wrenches)? They will help a lot.

Nice! Why won't it let me post that in all caps?

If you're willing, I'll bet that adapter plate plan would be welcome in the USRM.. My plate fit OK but I would'nt say "perfectly"

I haven't seen an XT6 at pull N save in over a year. EJ engines are readily available there, of course in various conditions. There are a couple new Legacies there this week and one of them had a replacement engine in it... The adapter plate is simple. The procedure has been discussed a few times, if you do a search in the advanced mode, you will find it in the Retrofitting forum... I've discussed it there as well... read through some of these and then if you have more questions, post them back here instead of in the old threads. Also remind us of what kind of subaru they're going into?

well.. is there? .. yes i searched.

I'd hire a professional auto appraiser; I don't trust any insurance companies :cool:

everything custom on it is worth something. Do you have receipts for the custom transmission and rear differential work? for the custom EJ engine install? for the lift kit? for the pug wheels? Get quotes for having all that acquired and installed, as if you were going to do it to another car. Get a receipt of some sort, including hours of labor, for the paint and bodywork it just got. You've got a solid $5000 car there and if it were totalled on the highway tomorrow, the insurance adjuster might just laugh and offer you $2000, maybe make a joke about how you'd have gotten $1700 if it didn't have new paint.

aside from the unshielded cat, axles are also destroyed by worn transmission mounts.

so it won't rotate either? what about hammering on the outboard end of the control arm, forward and backward.. break that thing loose. It's too bad you can't heat it without cooking the bushing... You could always drill thru the entire bolt and then maybe it'd pound out.. I'd guess that you're probably going to need a new bolt anyway

it might have some rust in there anyway... shoot some PBBlaster in there and give it a while... Do that and then put a rachet on the bolt and try to unscrew it while you tap the butt. You might also unscrew the strut rod bolt a 1/2" and loosen the 3 strut bolts in the tower, to give you plenty of wiggle room.

nice job, Eric.. now get that sucker APPRAISED!!

I'll be in Denver in a week to steal your car. See that it's completed by then.

cool idea.

It is generally advised that you use the races/shims and chunk from the same differential. It might be worth the $ to have a driveline shop make sure the lash is OK unless you're handy with Prussian Blue (I'm not).

you'll be fine, throw them on!

It doesn't. He mentioned that he holds the rotor with his hand; I think I'd still opt for the vise grips on the rotor.

Yeah, I gotta get one of those. My way works fine but involves a lot more effort Have you ever tried that flywheel lock?

I've never gotten the "pry bar thru the lugs" trick to work. It either slips out, or digs a divot into the dirt and then spins out, or it FLEXES while I'm trying to break the nut and boings out. I should be missing some teeth but I'm lucky. Most yards will cut brake lines somewhere on the car too, so you can't use pedal pressure in most cases. I will either clamp a vise-grip just clockwise of the caliper or I will put a steelie back on the rear and snug a couple of lugs finger-tight, and then stick a pry bar through the steelie's slots and wedge it against the caliper. I use a breaker bar with the 36mm socket on it for the nut, and sometimes I'll grab a long straight section of exhaut pipe to slide over the breaker bar to multiply my leverage. And he who goes rear disc-brake hunting without PB Blaster is in for a lousy time; it helps with the axle nut and with a wire brush, it is invaluable for cleaning the axle hub before and during removal of the backing plate.

You should be fine. There is some controversy about whether a proportioning valve needs to be swapped or ignored, and on what years/models of car it might matter. Most people are OK with not swapping the proportioning valve, and I don't think anybody here's had any problems caused by leaving it alone. While I wouldn't want to put sedan calipers on a wagon, there's obviously nothing wrong with putting sedan calipers on a sedan. Enjoy!

I have seen them together, the sedans' calipers are noticably smaller and the pads are smaller as well.

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