baccaruda

try getting under the car and wiggling the rubber mounts further back on the exhaust pipe's mounts, they may just need some slack in order to let the exhaust move forward. Also make sure it's not rubbing on anything under there.

you can host pictures at imageshack.us and post them with the image tag here.

Those wheels look great. If you want to lift the rear end a couple of inches to match the front (my preference), you can get some GL10 / RX rear shocks with the adjustable spring perches and kick the back up higher. If you want to lower the front, you can cut the springs like Gary suggested, but would that affect the spring rates? You could also look into different front struts. I don't know if you're running stock Legacy front struts or aftermarkets, but the 92 KYB GR2s have the spring perches welded an inch higher on the strut than the 90s.. I don't know if this is the case with the OEM struts. What I'm getting at is that you might try getting some slightly earlier struts and seeing if they let the front sit a little lower. This also depends on how much clearance your tires have relative to the spring perches... Also, if you are going to disassemble the front struts again anyway, you may be interested to know that WRX front springs' rates are nearly identical to those of an EA82 RX...

what tires are those? (anyone who says "kumho" gets slapped with a wet fish) argh. let me follow THAT one up with "hey, the "venture MT" is printed upside down, better take them back!" I just got new glasses after having used contacts for the last several years, this is weird...

I can see how that would prevent spark; the driver's side pulley has the marks on the back and the passenger's side pulley doesn't. good luck, guys.

any luck today?

Doing that will make any car louder, because the snorkus in the fender is designed to keep it quieter. Doing that to a TURBO car will get you a speeding ticket Doing it to a non-turbo car will have a negligible effect.

how's it run?

thanks Will.. I'll wait until it's running before I start upgrading my upgrades

I have an XT pitch stopper and bracket on my wagon. I grabbed a Legacy pitch stopper at the parts yard and found it to be the same length as the XT's, although the Legacy had a thicker rod. It almost lined up with the slot on the bracket. Instead of slotting the slot a little more (it would have been close to the rear edge of the bracket and I didn't want it to be too thin), I had a 1/2" added to the length of the rod, and it fits fine.

the 5th injector is for when you are running at high boost; it is possible for the turbo to suck so much air that it exceeds the 4 injectors' capacity to provide enough fuel, causing a lean condition, causing the need for an extra injector to help out.

I would discourage you from trusting Pull N Save as a good source for a harness.. it seems that every Legacy there has the coil pack yanked, and the ignitor yanked WITH THE HARNESS CUT because whoever's getting all of those is too lazy to unplug the ignitor... other components are clipped off as well.

I'm changing the strut rod bushings on my (1986) wagon, and the dealership gave me some that were different from what the stock ones turned out to look like. (i ordered them before i removed the old ones). The new ones' part number supercedes all the older GL bushings' numbers, which means that as far as the dealership is concerned, these are the right bushings. The new bushings are in the top row in the picture, the bottom row is the old bushings. The bottom pic illustrates the difference as seen from the sides. So, can anyone confirm that these are acceptable for use on an '86 EA82 vehicle? Monstaru said they looked like EA81 bushings, but I saw the years to which the book applied. IF they are the right bushings, I also need to know which way they're installed.. which sides face each other on their respective sides of the strut rod plate? This way or that way? Thanks guys. WJM, if you see this, are the Super Pro Bushings available? SPF2534K# - $TBA (approx $30~$40, these dont officially exist) Front Strut Bar To Chassis Mount (LEADING ROD) Kit contains 4 Bushings To suit 18mm outside diameter shaft (Measure!)

maybe you should try the diesel flush that was discussed a few days ago?

If you already have an extra car radiator, I'd go with it and sandwich it between two box fans. Or four

http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/ scroll down to the "links" and look for the CAD drawing. The dimensions, basically, are: VW 1.9 TDI dimensions Oil pan to upper intake is approx 29" Wide side to side approx 23" Bell housing to front of engine 21" it WILL fit in the engine bay of an EA82.. but the crank sits a lot lower than in a Subaru. You'd almost certainly want to opt for the Vanagon oil pan to let you tilt the engine 45deg to gain top clearance, and you might have to lower the transmission (bad for a crawler), and you would definitely have to reinforce the crossmember, maybe even make one from scratch.. I've been looking into this (biodiesel!!!) and I honestly don't know if it would be practical because of the trans height and the extra weight.

is there such a thing as a motorcycle with a driveshaft?

Going up a size depends on how much clearance there is inside the block, around the threads - for oil passages, coolant passages, etc.. WJM might know this best? Ziggy, can you elaborate on the beeswax technique?

Regarding your wagon's axles, here are two things that you can do to prevent them from wearing out prematurely: Get new transmission mounts (motor mounts would be good too). Your old sloppy trans mounts are letting your axles absorb all of the lateral torsional mystical etc. forces that occur whenever you so much as look at the gas pedal. Ebay has deals on mounts sometimes, or perhaps you can go through Jamie or Richie or someone here who works at a dealership. Make sure your catalytic converter has a heat shield between it and the axle. This will obviously keep your axle boot from absorbing as much heat as it would with the cat unshielded. I prefer to throw a crapload of money and new parts into a car I plan to keep. It's the "fountain of youth" theory. If I replace/upgrade parts that will wear out, then there are fewer things that can go wrong with the car. And when something does, it's easier to know where to start looking. Does your wagon have any rust on the body? It's nice to have new tie rod ends but I can't recall how much they cost. If you replace the tie rod ends, consider replacing the ball joints as well. They'll wear out at similar rates.

wow, too bad that's an auto. I'd say it's definitely worth a premium (and due for it's first timing belt job ) but $6 is a bit much. It's worth no less than $4000, maybe $5k's fair?

yeah, but I'll bet he has one for it somewhere

I am booking a flight to Oz and stealing that thing. interesting that there's no strut tower brace in that picture...

5 again (heh) I think you should keep the trim, I think it's worth the dents and scratches it prevents, and gathering them is obviously not what you use your car for I started painting my old turbowagon like you are; I got some cans of the black bedliner and started giving it the ol' #5, and decided that the bedliner was not the way to go, so I grabbed another fender from the parts yard and erased it. Don't use the Duplicolor bediner in a can, folks. It was going to look good though, with the black bedliner under the dark gray. I'm thinking about doing it again with this wagon...

I'd wonder about contaminating the distributor?

that's a great upgrade.