baccaruda

yeah, it's not the disc that needs the upgrading that much, it's the clutch cover (aka pressure plate) that allows slippage. Get a heavy-duty pressure plate and sure, while you're at it, upgrade the disc itself.

I applaud your results. You should put a sign in the back window that says "too slow for you = 40MPG for me!" I'll bet you still get "birdies" but you'll probably get some thumbs-ups to offset them. I have a host of upgrades planned for my Brat to improve the fuel economy: Tornado air cleaner thingee Magnets all over the gas tank, fuel filter, exhaust pipes, driveshafts and axles, to.. uhh, keep the ionic alignment of the fuel molecules in physio-spiritual harmony with the gas mileage fairies. Cross-drilled fuel lines for a cooler fuel circuit. Everyone knows that excess heat = wasted exothermic potential. Helium in the tires, 45psi. Gonna carry a few extra spare tires filled with same for more "lift" Speaking of lift, I'm adding a Red Baron spoiler to the top of the bed canopy, to reduce drag and to make the back of the car weigh less. Might put one on the hood too. Keep the car washed, waxed, and for extra aerodynamic "lube," Vaseline'd. Except the door handles because I'd look silly if I couldn't even get into my own car. Pay a little "extra" on my monthly physics bill, "just in case." Upgrade to XT/vortex front bumper, fenders, and hood for more aerodynamic street cred. Plus nobody's ever done this with a Brat before AFAIK. Chrome plate the entire car to reflect more energy-robbing heat away I'll let you all know how this stuff works out.

psst.. it was your money in the first place!

Yeah, it might be "rare" but it's not necessarily "collectible" or won't necessarily appreciate in value.

All of the EA82 crank pulleys I've ever seen have had the pin. I have an EA82 crank pulley I don't need, and it has the pin. Let me know if you're interested, it's worth $5 plus shipping to me....

Hey Jerry. If those donor parts had been sitting for a while, the injector might need a good cleaning. See about swapping out the injector only perhaps?

wasn't me. just change it. (make sure it's not easy like your middle name or phone # or something...)

Monstaru eats motors for breakfast and brushes his teeth with that foamy brush stuff they have at the car wash. several people have sucessfully passed emissions running Weber carbs with varying amounts of emissions doodads present or removed from the car. Go for it.

yes.

decent brand too.

looks sharp! need some door trim? I can hook you up!

gary, was it you that had that writeup on cleaning the rust buildup every so often?

got an '83 wagon for $200 today! It needs to have the wiring un-monkeyfied and a couple other things need sorting-out. It's light blue and the body's EXTREMELY straight, and the chrome taillight trim and driver's side antenna (and the Jan '83 VIN plate) indicate that it's a late '82 model. This will allow me to sell the brat much sooner than I'd planned...

good hunting, PK!

plus it's bad for the transmission mounts and axles due to the odd angle. Minimal perhaps, but I can't tell how far off it is in the pic...

http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/157328131.html " Black W/ burgandy GL 4 door wagon......"

yum

what about keeping the EJ25 manifold/wiring and just swapping longblocks (and "adjusting" the exhaust)?

i think that the RX rear suspension would be WAY too stiff for the brat. consider the weight difference in the rears of the two cars.

Dave's right about the need to screw the piston back into the caliper. The auto parts stores sell a "multi-cube" for 3/8" ratchets that is intended to be used to turn caliper pistons back in. It shouldn't cost you more than $10. it is preshaped to match the notches in many different pistons - hence the multi-cube nickname. Screw the piston back in counterclockwise. You may wish to open the bleeder screw a bit to relieve the pressure while you screw it in.

in that case get McBrat to design you a custom brown vinyl toilet seat cover!

My harness is from a 1990 2WD AT legacy... i'll read into it. thanks.

search for a post Skip made with the flywheel specs... good luck.

WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! will do, thanks! Josh/Noah, I'm mating this to the RX FT4WD in my wagon. no crapomatics for this guy.

...whatever. EJ conversion wiring: Auto Vs Manual Is the Shift Lock unit needed? Can I just jump a couple of wires and bypass the Shift Lock unit? >>>>>Austin said in an older thread to jump the AT/MT wires, same thing here? I'm pretty sure that the TCU is needed, but it will have very few wires left? OR is it possible to bypass TCU entirely by jumping the right wires? It would be nice to have fewer doodads to cram under the dash.