baccaruda

nice! i really like the way those look with the black roof rack..

yeah, you just have to slot the motor mount holes about 1/2" each, outboard.

Only the best for me and mine. :cool:

When swapping an EJ22 into either an EA81 or an EA82, does either style of EJ motor mount happen to fit better than the other? I want new motor mounts for my swap but don't know if I should buy the liquid filled style or the solid rubber style.

it's not hard at all to swap in, especially since you already have turbo axles. When I swapped an RX trans into my wagon, I had to retain the RX shift linkage stuff on the trans (different bolt pattern thingy) so don't toss anything.

wheels are hawt.

I'm dealing with a similar problem on a friend's car. Her car broke a timing belt (the driver's side, of course) and the belt stuffed the oil pump, or it was already stuffed. So I put on a good junkyard oil pump with new seals and changed the timing belts and tensioners. I have the timing belts on "exactly correct" according to 6oclock/12oclock and according to the marks in the plastic covers. It runs like crap. I have yet to pull the plug wires (good idea) to see what happens, and plan to hook up my timing light tomorrow just to see what it says, but what is confusing/frustrating is that the belts are visually correct. I have redone the belts once, according to the USMB and/or HTKYSA writeup, to all of the same results. Looks perfect, runs like crap. ??????

the EJ22 has a distributorless ignition controlled by the ECU. Otherwise you might be on to something

the short answer is yes, it will work. Check out the retrofitting forum, or search within it for EJ22.

I think an EA81T distributor works fine for this as it's set up for FI already.

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=54

match the clutch and flywheel to the transmission. you need the transmission and shifter stuff you need the driveshaft and 4wd rear end.. the crossmember, trailing arms, and differential/mustache bar, and perhaps 4WD shocks. everything bolts right on except for the center bearing carrier for the driveshaft. You can either get a one-piece driveshaft made or you can very carefully weld the center carrier to the appropriate spot under the car. I would swap in the 4WD rear end stuff first because you can do all of that at once and still drive the car with nothing pushing the differential. Since you're talking about changing the transmission and clutch as well, you might consider putting in a 5-speed as well. very similar procedure.

bump

you could also put in an engine block heater instead of that plug.

sent you a PM.

yeah, and I've noticed that a lot of the time it's someone promoting something they're offering for sale. doubly obnoxious.

Not really, it will be on your record for the same amount of time regardless. That's how it worked with each of the tickets that I used to have on my record.

seriously, are you getting a lawyer or, what is your plan? call the state insurance commissioner at least. If you and the insurance office are in different states, call the commish in both states just to CYA. Call a few lawyers and see what info you can get over the phone.

argh. time to call a lawyer.

there's also an oil return line (rubber) that drains oil from the turbo back into the crankcase. I'd blame that or the valve covers. If you change that oil return line, you'll want to change the coolant return line right next to it, also under the turbo. Those are dealer-only parts and a pain to change.

Sorry, guy, but the pdf's always been available here for $0 (although sometimes hard to track down) and the book never sells here for more than $20-30 tops. Sometimes newer members seem inclined to try and make every $ they can off of the board, and while everyone here sells parts for profit, the prices you set the pdf at suggested to me that you might have been one of those who value the board for what *you* can get out of it, and not for what *everyone* can get out of it. I could have said as much in the thread you started. I apologize for my heavy-handedness. (I do think that if I hadn't acted, someone else would have complained for the same reason that I did, however). No hard feelings?

do you smell burning oil when stopped? (with the motor warm, turn on the heater. You'll find out quickly.) It is easy to overtighten and thereby compromise the seal of the gaskets. It is also easy to wiggle them out of alignment with the valve cover when reinstalling. Try changing the valve cover gaskets yet again. Clean both surfaces, then "glue" the gasket to the valve cover with some nice sticky grease. Put white lithium grease on the side to contact the engine. be careful you don't dislodge the gasket, and when you put the valve cover bolts back on, get them finger tight, then tightnen them just a little more with the ratchet. Like a full turn and a half at most.

I would like to say that I am NOT the one who made the pdf. I would understand if someone jumped to that conclusion and I want to pre-empt it.

you might need the engine sensors and wiring harness from a 1995 2.2. I believe it is a direct hookup for most 2.5 liter vehicles, but no other years are.

it covers 1975 to 1988, so it hits EA71, EA81, and EA82 (up to 88).