baccaruda

You will probably find the performance to be unsatisfactory, as the carbureted short block has lower compression than the SPFI block. I think you'd be better off finding another SPFI longblock and then swapping it in to your car. Good luck with the project.

there is a copy of it that is priced at like $130 on Ebay once in a while. Good freakin' luck.

True, but if non-USMB staff such as Syonyk, up there, and Suberdave (very soon), are the hosts, then there is very little that the USMB itself could be held liable for. I'd be willing to contact the publisher if that consensus is reached. I myself am setting up a website. I will happily host it myself as well as soon as I figure out what I'm doing.

so, since I hijacked that guy's "$45 HTKYSA pdf" thread i've had 8 or 9 people PM me about getting the HTKYSA pdf for free, in the traditional USMB manner. Problem is, it's a large file. It's too big for my hotmail account. It's not too big for my gmail account. So.. I created a new gmail account just for the purpose of disseminating the HTKYSA pdf. Inside of that account, I emailed the pdf as an attachment to *the same account*. So, anyone who logs into that account can download the attachment to their own desktop. If you have PMed me about the pdf, I will be replying with the login and the password at the rate of about 2 or maybe 3 people per day, just to keep the bandwidth usage on the lower side. So, if you want the pdf and have not yet PMed me, feel free to post in this thread and your turn will come soon! I would wonder if you higher-ups and USMB mods would be interested in considering hosting the pdf on the site server somewhere? It would greatly streamline the process, and I understand why there could be some trepidation due to copyright concerns, I think it's worth considering that the book is long out of print. I honestly can't imagine that Larry Owens would care as long as we don't make money off of it.

check the ultimate subaru repair manual forum.

nice! kind of interesting that nobody thought of it before.. one of those easy "hidden in plain sight" things...

That's because the Subaru horsepower is metric.

the only thing that I could add would be some electrical gremlin that is providing insufficient spark due to something involving the 4WD indicators...

that's better. don't let it happen again!

TROGDOR! has exceeded their stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space.

those will all be dealer only items. Jamie/Subigal works at subarugenuineparts.com and I believe they still have a special rate for USMBers.

that writeup that subarunuts linked is great. A note about using hose clamps: they WILL hit the steering shaft if used on the driver's side front axle! I know this from personal experience! Make sure they won't hit anything such as the exhaust on the passenger's side front axle as well. Also: the cage which holds the ball bearings is tapered slightly, I *THINK* wide end toward the outside, narrow end toward the middle of the axle.. just make sure you put it back on the way it came off! also, in case it was not mentioned in any of the writeups, get one of those silver antisieze crayons and color in your axle stubs with it, especially in the rear (as they get changed so less often).

at least they're good at something.

so, you're switching insurance companies, right? One addendum to Gary's advice.. not ALL lawyers work on that percentage basis but many advertise that they do, so you may have to look for that.

I read it as if he popped the CVJ (outside joint on the front axle).. and those are not serviceable as DOJs are. I had an episode a while ago where I swapped in a "new" junkyard front axle and went to drive off, and it sounded worse than the "old" axle. Since it was dark and I was angry, I grabbed my grinder and sawed through the axleshaft and pulled the inside 1/2 off of the trans, and then took off the outer boot and with a chisel and sledgehammer shattered the cage and pulled out the outer 1/2 of the axleshaft, then drove home in 4wd. I kept the outer section that held the front wheel on for an emergency piece.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

that sounds extremely strange. can you post pictures? It's pretty hard to overtorque the axle nut (if that's what you're referring to?). Some of our biggest members just use their body weight to torque that nut down, to no ill effect. Were you doing any prying on the knuckle? That joint in the axle is not meant to be disassembled so I doubt you can put it back together. If you have a 4WD turbowagon, you could leave the stub in the spindle and remove the axle from the transmission and still get around OK until you get another axle...

so that *did* fix the bind?

You can upload pictures to http://www.imageshack.us

I don't suppose you can read any part numbers or serial numbers off of it?

I also disagree with it... as a concept. That's not going to stop the insurance co. from making the assertion and adding another hurdle for you to jump, though.

I'll bet you could fit something like that to an EJ22T...

http://used-cars.autos.yahoo.com/usedcars/detail/index.html;_ylt=AnuSj1Ng_zxDHfR0Tt_cpPt6SMUF?cid=automobiles-194928515&dst=15.34&rsr=bWFrZT1TVUImbW9kZWw9JmNsX3k9MTk4MCZjaF95PTE5ODUmY2xfcHJpY2U9JmNoX3ByaWNlPSZjbF9taT0mY2hfbWk9JmNrPSZndXI9MzAwJmNzej1zZWF0dGxlLCt3YSZjZV9zbD0mdnR5cGU9YXV0b3MmbWs9U3ViYXJ1Jm1vPSZzdWJtaXQ9U2VhcmNo#image note that this is 2wd auto with more miles than yours. dented in the front too.

would the air have time to compress before it is displaced off to the side of the blade?

let me see if i can find one before we come up next weekend. PM me your phone #.