baccaruda

let me drive it and watch the tires as you drive it. it might just be the size of the tires. Might get better when you put in the LSD (more push from the back? or would that be only with a FT4wd?)...

did you repaint it or just fix the hatch and bumper in back?

look! http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/125918819.html note that that one needs repairs. http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/125582213.html get pictures of these cars if you can. how much did you pay for yours when you bought it?

Brats are not going to help. Only wagons will be relevant. Cars from out of state will not help either. The insurance companies claim that different markets value cars differently, i.e. a 4WD subaru in Seattle is worth less than in Spokane because it rarely snows in Seattle. (BS, I know, because Seattle's economy is more inflated than Spokane's...) Kevin, they'd try to screw anyone they could, but they're trying extra hard because you're "only" 19. You will have to either wait them out, or ***find enough mint subiewagons for which you can get values to finally prove your case.*** I would suggest that you speak with Aaron's Auto Wrecking, and ask for their Expert Opinion regarding the value of your car. I believe they sell complete running cars as well as selling parts. You would probably be best off bringing them color pictures of your car along with the $400 story, and then asking if someone could come by to look at your car in person. Their opinion as a licensed business with expert experience in Subarus might carry some weight. I would also suggest that you look into getting the car appraised by a professional in that field. It might cost you money, but you might try to add the cost of that appraisal to what you ask from the insurance company, and claim that since their appraisal was so inaccurate as to qualify as incompetent that they owe you the money it cost you to prove your car's value to them. You could also take a bunch of good color photographs with a stat list to used car dealers and ask for their opinions. Record the name and phone # of the lot as well as the person you speak to, who should be the owner if possible. Also, there's a lot of stuff on this site http://www.insurance.wa.gov/ but some of it may prove useful. mentioning that you plan to complain to the WSIC might get something happening. I am sure I'm not the only one here who would be interested to know what company you were insured with. I wouldn't like to be giving my money to any company that tries that carelessly and blatantly to screw someone over. Put an ad in Craigslist under Cars For Sale, General, and Wanted asking for info about past wagon sales. Cruise Ebay's completed listings. Put a classified ad in your paper. Have access to a fax machine? Call used car lots asking for what prices at which they've sold 81-84 wagons and have them fax you the answers. Consider telling the insurance co. that you're doing all of this, and that you're counting the hours you spend, and that you're going to add $10/hour to the claim you've filed with them. That of course is BS but it makes you sound like a customer to be reckoned with. (On that note, DO NOT let the insurance phone-dork cut you off or interrupt you: "I AM NOT THROUGH speaking and I will not tolerate being interrupted!"... ignore the subsequent apology and continue to own the conversation... mention repeatedly that it will cost them far more to pay someone to argue with you for an hour per day for three years than to just give you the fair value of your car now, that of course means that you have to call them instead of letting them call you, which means that you must have an excuse to call them each day, which highlights the importance of searching for examples of well-preserved subarus.) Good luck and MTFBWY!

this includes the radiator

that's interesting. "success" means it ran well?

I went to Vancouver yesterday to pick up the hatch from Russ, and during the test drive, when I stopped it I thought there was something wrong with the brakes, until I remembered that it hadn't been converted yet

gen 4? Will, what's up with that? I have owned two turbowagons so I will offer: They're a lot of fun but you're most likely going to be getting into a situation where you'll have a lot of catfh-up maintenance. The good is that the push-button 4WD transmission is really great if you don't need a dual-range, and they usually have better suspension than non-turbo cars. I would suggest that you replace all of the rubber coolant lines and remove and test the radiator, and depending on the mileage and if you don't know its service record consider a new water pump soon. I consider them to be high-maintenance if you can't tell. I would rather swap in an EJ22 for the horsepower and the ease of maintenance. It would be worth the effort of the swap in my opinon.

the biggest thing you can do to help yourself out when removing old brake parts from the hub is to have a large wire brush and some PB blaster handy to clean the hub for the removal of the old drum brake crap and the installation of the new backing plates.

i don't think it's been done yet. You would probably have to have a lift kit on the subaru for it to fit under the hood. I'm looking at doing that in a year or two but that's no help to you now

I would seriously urge you to consider using an EJ transmission. The EJ22T (any EJ turbo, really) is a huge step beyond the power output that the EA transmission was designed to take. This is a major project, as you are aware, and I would say that the extra work involved in upgrading the trans would be worth the effort, and would add only negligible overall downtime to the car when you are ready to throw everything in.

let's steal you a couple of sodium vapor streetlights. You'll light up the town for a quarter mile in advance, but you'll have to turn on your car for 15 minutes before driving to let the lights warm up plus your brat will look all hott (with two t's, yes) and angry with teardrop shaped headlights.

my project wagon (see sig) will be receiving a VW TDI w/ biodiesel conversion within the next few years. After I finish the current project as described, I will sell my Brat for the funds to buy the VW TDI.

there is no valve for the heater core in the later GL/Loyale series. check the cable and see if the connecting rod at the heater is allowed its full range of movement. if some critter tried building a nest in the heater at some point, it could be restricting it, or the cable could have jumped loose at some place. I don't think you mentioned the airflow, is it blowing properly strong out of all directions? that is another cable that could have jumped. Pardon my opportunism but I have a good EA82 heater core on my parts shelf that I can send you for $35 shipped, if you decide it needs to be replaced.

http://www.walter-fendt.de/ph14e/pulleysystem.htm

can you rehost the pictures for this please? I wanted to show a friend at work...

No clue. I think I've seen it once. There are a few drop-dead gorgeous EA81 wagons around here; if I see one I will try to talk to the owner. Don't hold your breath though, they don't pop up often. Good luck! Hm, you might also contact Aaron's Auto Wrecking for value information...

just saw this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/Subaru-Brat-1600-77-79-Left-Fender-Fiber-Repro_W0QQitemZ4596020611QQcategoryZ42611QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem don't know if it's the same vendor.

nice mod. get help.

I think it's nothing. I have heard that on both of my turbowagons after chopping their airboxes. Remember that when you do this mod, you are bypassing the muffler snorkus in the fender, which reduces the sound of the air being drawn in by minimizing the aperture by which it gets to the filter. It also has a convoluted path inside the snorkus, resulting in a longer path to travel to get to the filter aperture, which means that it's another thing that slows down that delicious cold air your turbo craves. That sound would happen anyway (perhaps on a smaller scale as the airflow IS increased with this mod) but it would have to reverberate all the way out of the snorkus and out of the fender, and would be greatly muffled. That sound is the air cavitating inside the intake as the air entering the intake meets air that suddenly stopped its progress. You still might want to get a BPV though, because any turbo car, no matter what you do to the intake, could use a BPV. It might affect The Noise but that doesn't mean that the noise is a problem.

Thank you Spokane, GOODNIGHT! tip your waitress!

A little TOO sexy if you ask me. This is a FAMILY board. sicko.

this thread needs a sticky....

I think the issue with the gas pedal is particular to EA81s only. My car is an EA82 and I have the legacy cable; it fits in the EA82 pedal just fine though there are a couple different styles of fittings on EA82 throttle cables and hence a couple different gas pedals. I'm guessing carbed. vs. EFI (mine was a turbo, hence the match). EA81s are almost all carbs of course, so that might be where that started. also, EA81s need their crossmembers widened by the same amount as the EA82s. also also, this thread is a great distilled source of adapter plate info. Now, speaking of distilling, I'm off to the bar.

i don't see any USMB stickers on the car, but it's kind of funny how you can just assume membership..