baccaruda

awesome! come wire mine.

Don't get yourself in trouble.. electrocuting someone would be "their fault" and I know I'd like to do it, but you'd end up in trouble because the punishment is too severe for the crime. The floodlight idea is good, but you could just put a motion sensor on the floodlight itself. Most thieves will just turn right around and leave if a light goes on. If you want to have the car trigger it, I understand though, because the thief would realize that his action caused the light to go on. You could also put a starving rottweiler in the car at night

no power steering shafts needed?

You could line it with either Dynomat (expensive but supposedly very good) or the spray-on stuff, and you could also throw in some of that silvery heat shielding material. It might help with extremes of temperature as well as supplement any sound deadening you install.

nice work so far. Looks like you're past all the major projects, unless you count the clutch. Here's a pic I stole from an Aussie website a while ago:

# for the rears is 341053, you must have the adjustable spring perch from your old shocks to use these.

I don't know, I'd say that that big rear window in the coupe contributes a lot of structural rigidity... glass flexes much less than metal does. I also spent 6 years learning everything I could about 64-66 Barracudas, which are the undisputed king of big rear windowedness (and they handle great for old bricks ).

If I have my way, I will be running a newer VW TDI in my wagon in a year or so. then it's nothing but veggie oil for me..

thanks! she just had the CTS changed and it seems to have done it.

this one's the best: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

sorry to put your idea down but this could severely damage the interior of the core, perhaps puncturing it and causing a leak. Stephen, you could try disconnecting the heater hoses and rigging some sort of flush setup through just the heater core, but if you have enough corrosion in the core, it could end up washing out corrosion that is plugging a leak. If you'll pardon a little opportunism from me, I had to tear apart a junkard car's heater to get one of the interior flaps, as I'm rebuilding my wagon's heater core. I bought that car's heater core as it appeared to be in great shape (fins are straight and soldering around inlet/outlet pipes is intact), and I have not listed it for sale yet, but it is my intention to do so for $25 + shipping. If you're interested let me know. Regardless, good luck! Andy

well, if you have exaggerated the front clearance somehow (fake lift), it can make the camber worse. you might jack up the car and see if wiggling the wheel indicates worn bearings. so like Ross said, lowering the car in front a bit might help..

http://www.por15.com

that looked like a blast! i have posted before that after buying my brat, i loaned my turbowagon to a friend for a few weeks. one afternoon while walking around downtown, i heard something loud coming from a few blocks away and i was astounded when it was my turbowagon, driven by my friend! i had a custom 2.5" open exhaust with a divorced wastegate, and i hadn't expected the car to turn out that loud...

I have an EA81T's oil cooler assembly... does anyone know if the sandwich will fit on an EJ22?

i'll clap as hard as i can, think happy thoughts, ring some bells, maybe it will help?

i'll clap as hard as i can, think happy thoughts, ring some bells, maybe it will help?

My friend Sasha's car (1995 Legacy, 2.2, 5MT) is having intermittent episodes of poor performance. She has had the codes read and cleared twice, and they were the same both times: PO115 Coolant Temperature Sensor PO120 Throttle Position Sensor PO325 Knock Sensor #1 Malfunction PO125 Insufficient Temp Forced Loop PO133 O2 Signal Slow Banks #1 Sensor #1 (P1200 or P1700 - Mechanic has bad handwriting) Signal to TCM Circuit She has had the battery and alternator checked, per my initial advice. I am going to look at the groundwires and the alternator's wiring harness later this week. I don't know if we should suspect the computer, but I am not inclined to suspect the actual sensors named by the codes. I would appreciate any advice.

have you checked that the axle nuts are properly tightened? Have you checked the axle washers as well? They are convex and should "bulge" away from the car. if those washers bulge inwards (a common mistake as many people assume they're flat) it can prevent your axle nut from staying tight, and then your bearings get to absorb all that extra stress. Check those first, then perhaps look into a loose DOJ ball. You should replace the ball joints and tie rods as well but they're not likely to cause this.

OK, I'm going to plan on keeping my plate then but i'm susceptible to desperate pleading, so let me know if things change. good luck getting yours..

OK, I'm going to plan on keeping my plate then but i'm susceptible to desperate pleading, so let me know if things change. good luck getting yours..

is your car safe from being towed away?

is your car safe from being towed away?

for the cone washers, I find that tapping on the end of the axle itself usually pops it right out.

..your brat is officially Too Cool! your reparations begin with bringing all of our brats up to speed with yours before you are allowed to proceed. Sorry, but your brat is creating an imbalance in the Subaru Force nexus and is acting as a sort of black hole of cool, sucking all the mojo out of ours and into yours. Something has to be said before it's too late, and I'm of course never afraid to open my mouth..