baccaruda

Allright, I tried twisting the wires (L, R, constant) together (separatly-together ) coupled to a headphone jack, with no results. It occurred to me that when you pop in a tape, the radio knows when to shut up and accept the auxiliary input... so I tore the rest of the tape player apart. The white (fused) wire goes to another board, though some sort of switch, and comes back to power the red wire. So I think the radio passes current thru the wires to the tape player and back, to enable the trigger of the auxiliary in/out. The blue wire runs to all of the capacitors on the board I pictured above, so I don't know how that serves the auxiliary circuit... I don't suppose anyone has a wiring diagram of the radio & tape player internals? My FSM set doesn't...

OK, I'll get an extra headphone jack to cut up this week.

Tex, the black wire is for the left channel and the yellow wire is for the right. You think I can just wire those two up to an A/V headphone jack? Everyone, I revised my first post for more clarity. Thanks for your opinions so far! I don't really care about the radio, but I don't want to fry my cell phone or dedicated mp3 player...

Hey, electrical guys. I was wondering about the possibility of modding the stereo so that instead of plugging a stock tape deck into the back, one could somehow plug in an MP3 player (who uses tapes anymore anyway?) Yeah, I could get a modern head unit but I like that the stock radio doesn't stick out. I have a tape deck and adapter, and I don't want to get an FM thingy. I want to eliminate the tape deck and just plug into the mp3 player, maybe with a small project box hidden in the dash if I need to add a small amount of circuitry to the adapter. I'm hoping someone here knows enough about the way these radios are powered to know if this is feasible. I took apart a working tape deck and a dead radio to get these pics: The jack is on the back of the radio, and the tape deck cord has 5 wires that solder onto the board as pictured. I'm wondering what it would take to splice something onto the tape deck cord, because disassembling and reassembling the radio to change the jack would be a huge pain. I overlaid the paths on the back of the circuit board onto the front with the components. The white wire is powered, as it comes from the fuse. The black wire is for the left channel and the yellow wire is for the right.. I'm concerned about what the other 3 wires are for.

Holy ####. Nice control arms... There'll be another Brat in your future someday, I'd put money on it.

It's probably best to pull the hatch off and tap the sheet metal and captive bolts for receiving the hinge back into place. The struts do help a lot, even when they can't hold it up. Disconnect one and see how opening it feels and you'll agree! Rockauto had a pretty good price on struts for my wagon when I bought new ones a couple months ago. Give them a try.

Oh, man.. that sucks! It was so clean, too!

Hey Noah. Talk to Bill Omlin (The Beast I Drive) - he is in the middle of converting an RX tranny to 4.11 ratio final drive.

Bump!!!

Those tires will get you into the mud, but not out!

If you can safely get the car up high enough, a transmission adapter for your jack will be the easiest way. The hardest part is getting the trans onto the adapter platform if you have to do all of that under the car, but it's easier than installing the transmission without the jack adapter.

You'd have to either destroy the cage which retains the bushings in the CVJ, or cut the axleshaft off flush with the CVJ cup. The metal is quite strong so it may be easier to cut the axleshafts. Then, install the CVJ ends as if they were whole axles, with the axle nut & hub and everything. Also, your transmission may not like this. But it could be a lot of fun.

you need the clamping force at the top. there have been a few ways of making adapter plates, either with two holes drilled and tapped, or the area on the plate hollowed out and two studs welded together with the threaded ends in opposite directions. search and ye shall find... good luck!

http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf

Sounds like a fun project! I would try to come up with a way to hang your light overhead to avoid the contrast and lens flaring that you get from shooting into the light. I know you have to be able to see the work you're doing but I work in a digital lab so I can't not-say such things. If you want to shoot a 4-corner wheel bearing replacement video, come on over to Spokane

$400 is worth a straight body if you don't mind doing further work to it to make it what you want. Otherwise don't look back if you're passing on it.

time for some class action lawuits!

The harnesses and wiring are different as mentioned above. I have an 86 wagon with a digidash and while it DOES look cool, I don't prefer it because it is more difficult to see in the daytime - especially with the sun shining on the digidash through the window, double-especially if it's bright enough outside that you're wearing sunglasses. The digidash also lacks precise gauges for fuel and temperature, and has no oil pressure gauge or ammeter. A while ago I started working on making an analog dash conversion harness for my car because it's easier to see in all conditions and has better gauges than the digidash has. I feel the analog dash is a better piece of equipment than the digidash because it is easier to get a more complete sense of what your car is doing. I would respectfully suggest that you keep the analog dash in your car and save the headache involved for a more worthwhile project.

Simply Awesome. Can't wait to get one! (in small plz )

Right, that's what I'd always thought. I'll see about putting an RX bar on it, I guess. I should have one somewhere. Thanks!

You bet.. I have them in stock; just make an order through the link in my signature.

Thanks Chux! You mean wider front to back? Any way you can tell me if the control arms are further forward or further apart?

You should just leave the EA harness alone.. tape over the ends of the connectors and snake the plugs back into the fenderwell; zip tie them in place. If you take them off you'll have to unwrap the harness and make sure any ground wires you cut are closed off. The EA82 headlights' harness and engine harness sprout off from each other right there inside the driver's side fender.. some of those wires run all the way back to where the stock ECU is/was. It would be nice to completely remove all the old wiring from the car but it would add more work than I feel it's worth unless you are perhaps doing this to a long-term project car. As far as your problem goes, I'd double check all of the power and ground splices in your harness as well as check all of the relays you're using. Others will chime in with other ideas I'm sure. Good luck

All of these guys do great work. I also have a reproduction BRAT 4WD sticker in case your tailgate is missing its plastic badge (or if you want one for the heckofit).. there's a link in my signature.. good luck with your Brat

That's a sweet bumper. I think it would be better to paint the superstructure behind the bumper a medium dark gray, if anything.