baccaruda

man, this got my hopes up. My plan, after I finish EJ22ing my wagon, is to sell my Brat and use that money to fund a biodiesel swap into my wagon (and then sell the EJ22 swap to someone).. My wagon is lifted, so I am optimistic about clearance issues but I need to measure the engine bay before I fill it with EJ22ey goodness, so I have some idea what will fit in there. How much modification was needed to bolt that Subaru flywheel to the VW engine? I see no reason why an adapter plate could not be made for a VW-subaru application, in the same fashion that the EJ/EA plate is made... I would kill for a turbodiesel in front of my RX transmission

the spare tire actually helps push the engine/trans down in the case of a severe front-end collision, saving the legs of those in the front seats. Provided that it's bolted to the shelf, that is.

yeah, the top spring perch. i have heard "tophat" used mostly for that part instead. sorry for the confusion. thanks for your picture. I think the WRX perches I have have a hole in the rim which is oriented either inboard or outboard. The center hump is off center like your legacy perches, though, so I will use that as a guide. thanks!

hm, the tophats don't have bolts. you may be thinking of the strut tower mounts, with the bearings? I am using the GL mounts above the WRX tophats... thanks though

I'm in the process of finishing the lift kit/5-lug upgrade on my wagon (legacy GR2s, WRX springs/tophats) and I have a small problem with the WRX tophats. I assembled one strut and a friend assembled the other. One of us installed the tophat 180deg off. Is the hole in the tophat supposed to be inboard or outboard please? Or, one of the struts "points" straight down and the other leans outboard at the bottom. Which is correct? thanks

it's a non-issue. it means that your throwout bearing is that much further from the pressure plate, and it can easily be negated by the clutch cable. you'll never see it. save your money for getting the flywheel balanced after having its bolt pattern altered to fit the EJ.

Wow! that must be a blast to drive I admire your ability to prioritize.. it is the mark of success with any urgent project. BTW what is belt dressing? I have some Newman's Caesar in my fridge and my belt is squeaking, do I have to share?

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hello.. check my thread in marketplace; i just lowered the price to $50 because I have had them for a while and got impatient to get rid of them (and other stuff) and organize my garage.. good timing on your part! if you would like to buy them i'd need your zip code for a shipping quote. thanks! (thanks Rob)

what sort of car are the other springs from? someone somewhere will have the stats for them. they might be nice for people who put in larger engines and/or larger custom front bumpers.

check your air filter too. after you get the problem solved, you can chop out the bottom of the air filter box (leave a lip for the filter) and it will be like you added a couple of cylinders.

aside from the frame mods, the wiring will be the only other hairy part, and that will mostly be due to the EJ22... an old wagon like that won't even have much of an electrical system - the amount of EJ22 wiring you'll discard will be more than the whole '78 even has.

nice work!

i've never had a problem with the agency in spovegas but i always point out the e-brake as well..

wash yer car!

what a bunch of morons. i'd complain to someone at the state level. New pads, rotors, and maybe a fluid flush are all in order.

i think an XT wagon would be a sweet looking ride. You would have to swap in the radiator support and front frame extensions from the XT, as well as swap in some of the sheetmetal surrounding the strut towers and fenders, and of course combine the XT fenders with the door and windshield sections of the stock wagon fenders.. the hood should just swap right on after that is all done. I've been interested in this for a while, as my eventual goal with my wagon (after this round of projects is completed) is to swap in a diesel engine, probably a VW TDI, and feed my car vegetable oil. Mounting a diesel engine in a wagon will be made easier with the lift kit, but the extra room in front might be necessary for a larger engine, especially as I have no idea how much extra room might be added in adapting the engine to the Subaru flywheel/clutch/trans. here's a bunch of XT pics... http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1514 here's a pic of my wagon from a while ago in case its angle is better for your project. hope you don't mind if i offer a rendition in a while as well..

directly behind the throttle body, connected to a hose that has a pretty tight bend. the PCV valve itself is a little hard to see sometimes.

hey. Pull N Save will be more likely to have that light than spaldings, and for a better price. Hopkins is a good subaru shop. They're on Nevada by Bridgeport and their phone # is 483-3943. their head mechanic, Brian, has 20 years' worth of Subaru experience from dealership work, and I feel that he's honest. I'm at 263-2853 if anyone needs directions or BS; I've got plenty of either

nice info. thanks guys!

hm. well, having never done that before, I don't know what the pattern is supposed to look like.. I'm guessing that the less smearing, the better?

hi guys, thanks. James, that is exactly what I did minus the spray paint. It has not been in a car since the conversion yet. I guess I'll just wait for a few more people who agree with me to chime in and then quote this thread in the auction

allright, so I have a 4.11 LSD that I'm going to relist on ebay soon. I had a few questions from people, concerning adjusting the gear lash after the swap. I spoke with WJM about this and he confirmed what I had assumed, namely, that as long as I only swapped the chunk and left the pinion and all the front side stuff alone that it would be OK. That wasn't good enough for this guy.. ME: To verify that this is acceptable, I asked a friend of mine who works in a Subaru shop and he told me that as long as I'd left it alone in the first place, that there was no adjustment necessary. Thank you for the question and your interest in the differential. HIM: If you put a different set of gears onto a LSD that they did not come from, then you have problems ! Only if the LSD came in that housing, with those gears, and it be re-assembled without rechecking gear lash. But as I understand your auction description, You put different gears into that unit than it came with. That unit needs someone to check it out, or there will be a set of trashed gears in it's future. No to sets of gears are machined exactly the same, even if they are the same ratio. You swap ratios, you toss what ever chance of the gear mesh being correct right out the window. If I was you, I would look for a new friend, because he sure won't fix the thing for free when it turns the gear oil into metallic paint. So again, I put the chunk and races and axle stubs from the LSD in the 4.11 case. I had never heard of any of you LSD swappers adjusting the gear lash. WJM said this was fine as I thought. I'd like to get some 4th and 5th opinions about this before I relist the LSD, so I can consider this settled for once and for all, and so I can amend the auction thusly. thanks!

why can't you flip the suabru rear differential? you could put the cover and rear mount on upside down and adjust the amount of gear oil it would take.. unless the different amount of oil would present too much resistance for the gears?

so is a conversion easier in a carbureted car or a fuel injected car or does it matter? BTW that link was changed to this http://fuelsforum.rasoenterprises.com thanks