baccaruda

um, they're IHI RHB5s, not VF7s. unless that's the same thing? stock boost is supposed to be about 7-7.5 psi.

POR-15 whether you need to weld or not.

'round here, those are called Princess seats! kidding. they're "la-z-boy" seats, unless you put a doily on them, THEN they're princess seats.

i vote for a thicker metal as well. it probably is fine for light towing, but it won't take a hit in an accident any better than the stock bumper. practice makes perfect

aside from the need to tension the belts, that works fine. in fact, I've used that very trick before when I changed the timing belt on a friend's '84 Honda. I called a few places to ask if I'd need to tension the belt, or if it had an auto tensioner. One guy (a Honda "Specialist") started to give me a bunch of crap when I asked, and I told him that I was familar with Subaru engines and their timing belts but not with Hondas. He started talking about lining everything up and such, and I told him that I was just going to mark and count the teeth on the belt (counted them 3 times as it turned out, can't be too careful with someone else's car!) and he started saying something about not knowing what I was doing before I hung up on him. The next shop I called was very helpful and told me that the tensioner was automatic on that car, and just asked if I knew not to rotate the cam or crank.

are you going to lift the brat as well as drop in a 6cyl? you could move the radiator to the top as you'd have room then. Then add a hood scoop and put the fan under the radiator.

I have a short throw shifter in my wagon. I had an inch of rod added to the shifter between the ball at the bottom and the transmission linkage. I had to bend the metal up at the front part of the hole in the trans tunnel so it would clear, and I think I need to have the transmission linkage lengthened and bent upward a little, because it doesn't shift as smoothly as it used to. i'm going to wait until after i put in the lift kit though, and see how the whole thing fits then, before i modify it any more.

uhm, i understand that the turbo light is activated by a vacuum of some kind. how long have you had the car, and does it drive like it has any problems? you can't disable the turbo really, without removing parts from *inside* the turbo (not likely) or without routing the exhaust around it completely (also not likely).

if anyone's coming from Nelson, BC, bring some After Dark. mmmmmm...

what are you putting it in? if there's any way you can power it with a differential, you can flip the differential over.

yep. i've used a white paint pen for that.

the 2.2s came in both imprezas and legacys. after '97, they are interference motors, so get an earlier model than 1997. they are rated for around 140 hp (135? 137? close enough, and better than 75hp like the hatch comes with). as far as wiring diagrams go.. i am slowly swapping an ej22 into one of my cars and I tracked down the Subaru shop manuals for my car and the donor car.

someone just said that "outback" mats will fit. i don't know if that means legacy or impreza though.

wow. i want to design something like that for my wagon but the hatch is going to make it interesting. hurry up with those pictures!

the procedure would be the same for the XT6 bar. I asked Ken about this a while ago, though, and he led me to decide not to use the XT6 bar as it is a huge rear sway bar for a car like the brat, which is light in the rear. A GL10 bar would be better. if you need the rear end really tight, look into attaching a rear strut tower brace instead of using a disproportionately large rear sway bar.

heh.. i've had an RX and a couple other turbo EA82s and I know for a fact that those figures are just recommendations. you could add an easy 10mph to each of those.

sorry man. usually you have to have property (renter's) insurance to have that kind of stuff covered, which is a complete line of BS as it's part of your car, or in your car. is that an impreza or legacy outback mat?

hey, the more complicated, experimental, and inaccessible, the better! besides, it can't be more than $6k for one of those

yeah I know. looks like the wave of the future but don't hold your breath.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/quasiturbine.htm I think I'm in love. you could easily fit 300 horses under the hood of any EA car with one of these. I am going to mortgage a kidney and up to 2/3 of my liver and buy one of these. I will report back with the results. It's a diesel-turbine-rotary all in one. Imagine.. "no" emissions... no more oil leaks... four power strokes... fuel flexibility... http://www.quasiturbine.com

120 psi is pretty acceptable compression for an EA82T... it still might be nice to do another compression test soon and see if there was any increase though. good luck.

http://www.imageshack.us

I used a scroll saw and a half-package of metal blades to cut mine. The edges aren't as nicely finished as I'd prefer but I will spend some time with a file and clean them up. I have yet to drill and tap the holes for the engine but I have drilled and tapped the holes for the transmission. I have my XT6 flywheel at a machine shop - I found someone to mill out the holes to match the EJ22 crank for $40-$50 ... one shop quoted me $180 - I waited until I had politely thanked them and hung up before laughing.

so I shoudl pull the seats out of the brat's bed before I slop this all over the place? does it leave a greasy/slimy texture like armor all? thanks for the tip!

next time leave a hungry rottweiler in the car reminds me of this: