baccaruda

that's a killer price! it will leave plenty of money left over for the clutch (if you plan on running this car hard, or tuning it, get an XT6 clutch as its pressure plate grips better) and for preventive maintenance on the cooling system. most old subies will enjoy a new radiator at around 150k miles, and the handful of coolant hoses on a subaru engine will experience accelerated wear due to the heat of the turbo. don't worry about it though. (if you know all this already, well, it's the thought that counts )

those ebay lift kits are total crap. stay away.

my subaru leaves "little black dots" all over the ground where it's parked

hi, yes it is possible. i hope i don't sound rude but there are 3 threads dealing with legacy swaps right below this one. if you didn't know this, it's OK - EJ22 is the legacy 2.2 engine, and EA82 is the older 1.8 engine such as in your loyale. EA81 is the even older 1.8 engine in the brats and other subarus with the same style front end. we have a link to our search feature right up there at 1 o'clock and it works great.. look for posts by me, ballitch, subarino, mudrat79, austin (ratty2subaru), lots of people are in this process or have done it.

i've heard about a trick (miles fox' i think) where you leave the starter off so you can leave the pressure plate untorqued until after the trans and engine are joined. that will allow you to fidget with the clutch disc.

here's the article http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/mick-usrm/ea81-shifter-fix/EA81ShifterFix.html and here's the page from the USRM which has a little more info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=49 if you already have these, then at least someone else may benefit..

when did you get a brat, anyway? i searched but found no post. shame on you. i would go to the dealer and look at the parts book and replace all the rubber and plastic parts in the shifter assembly. that's what I did for my wagon. you can then choose the part numbers yourself and get a photocopy of the diagram for your assembling pleasure. i need to do this to my brat as well. I almost missed a shift on the freeway, 60mph-3rd-to-2nd would have been BAD.

the old 2.2s are noninterference

ah sure, slip in the link after i out your drink-soakedness! ye sudsy barstad!!!1

oh really? that sounds good *evil grin* ... what about cylinder/valve interference?

???? ( )

i don't know but someone on nasioc or legacy central probably will. i'd guess that you can though.

i intend to. i'm putting in new seals for the stubs and i'm even going to see if the dealership can get the stickers new. in other news, i've decided that I won't have the wagon ready for WCSS. oh well.

the last one on ebay went for $650 and I'd like to see that happen for me, otherwise i'm not going to be able to justify buying new tires and a new windshield for my wagon.

argh. thanks for the motivation. i went out to the shop to put in the lift and it was locked... another setback. plus i ddnt' get one of the shocks or the top spring seats in as i'd hoped to this week. i have catchup stuff to do today such as refoaming the heater plenum, and assembling a 4.11 LSD that I am going to sell to pay for a new windshield and tires... beef: thanks but i have a new radiator and I'm already over budget... I'll keep yours in mind in case it turns out that I need it. thanks

I've seen magnets for oil filters (filtermag.com i think) that seem to be a more practical way to accomplish what these do. more expensive as well.

i've got you all beaten: FAKE BIRD $HIT made from chalk dust and clear and black silicone. put it on the door handles, no one will ever break into your car!

sounds like Rain-X for pistons. does anyone have an engine with known bad compression that this could be tested in? I'd donate $2 for research purposes..

if you have to rethread the plug socket, you could cram a bit of shop towel inside of the combustion chamber, and then drop a small but strong magnet in there to catch shavings, and rethread/helicoil the socket. then use another magnet to pull out the first with the shavings, and then tweezers out the shop towel. I'd blow it out with some compressed/canned air after that.

no, that's why you lift the car and drop the intercooler with the engine

the electric fan can make an absolutely wretched screech if the motor starts to go. it sounds like there's a fire alarm under the hood. just a thought.

ungh. mine is going so slow. it's just hard to get out there for any meaningful amount of time. i haven't done any of that crap in my last post except for cutting the adapter plate. i am going to try to do the drilling before saturday, when i'm going out again to ... INSTALL THE LIFT KIT! finally. I should have one if not both of my new 92 Legacy GR2s ($45 shipped and $75 shipped, gotta love ebay!) by the end of the week ... I already have the WRX front springs, and I will hopefully have the WRX top spring perches by the end of the week as well.

nice score. put some lift kit-style blocks on top of the struts.

i've NEVER seen pictures of a painted turbo. maybe chromed. I think they just get too hot for any kind of paint. .. or maybe NASA has something that can take that kind of temperature

As long as you haven't removed the distributor yet, any timing problems would still be found with the timing belts. no offense but you may want to re-double check that you followed the procedure, as quoted by Miles, correctly. The car could have been running rough due to a gradual failure of the old driver's side timing belt, or it could also have electical issues (the coil also reflects this concern) ... I would suggest that you check and supplement the groundwires in the engine bay of your car as these cars can suffer from poor grounding that develops with age. good luck.