baccaruda

for the PS pump, you will also want to disconnect the bracket that clamps the lines to the front corner of the motor. it should lift up out of the bracket.. i don't remember if i had to take the pulley off or not. i've never had to take axles off to get those lower trans nuts loose. but you could take this as an opportunity to check the axle boots i usually put a 14mm combination wrench on it and tap the nuts loose with a small sledgehammer, then use a 1/4" ratchet to get in there and get the bolts off. what i'll do is put the closed end of the comb. wrench on the nut with the open end sticking up, then aim a pry bar into the open end of the ratchet and tap on the end of the prybar to loosen the nut since you obviously can't get the sledgehammer oriented down there where the wrench actually is. my combination wrenches are craftsman/warranteed so i am not worried about damaging them. also i prefer two jacks for separating and reassembling the engine/trans instead of an engine hoist, because it's too hard to tell how the engine is balanced/which way it wants to lean when hung from a hoist, and it tries to spin, too. be sure you check the clutch, and the clips retaining the throwout bearing too.

hm, i bolted some right into my 86 wagon. I used the middle seat belt receiver's mounting points for the inside rear corner of the seat, and the seat belt still fits on there. i have to get a spacer for the outside rear bolt because the bracket is 2 inches longer front to back.

ditto that

well, the EGR is cheap to replace as it's easy to find a decent one at the junkyard. same with a junkyard carb, depending on the price. you could grab a junkyard distributor, like rich says, as well as a junkyard carb and EGR. Ideally all for less than $50. If you put it all on, then you can re-rebuild the new carb in your spare time and put it back on later. it sounds like the car's almost there. are you able to get those locally?

the end cap section on the 85/86 EA82 bumper would benefit from some sort of subframe to give it some support, which the stock bumper lacks. and cupholder indents too

the strut will fit fine but it might sit lower than the 4x4 strut.

that's a great design! You could easily put a swing on one side for a spare tire, and another on the other side for a jerry can. do the swing arms lock open?

careful with that stuff, you only have to try it once and you can get addicted

this is ridiculous. there is a store here that sells the accell 8140 yellow coil for (last time i looked) $35, and I think the comparable MSD coil is $40. they also sell universal 8mm accel wires for $30, and you can make two sets out of that. I can provide a hook-up for anyone that wants these shipped to them. i've bought the wires and made two sets out of them and had no problems. it has been about a year since i last checked these prices, BTW.

ah. yeah, i'm not really headed to sandpoint anytime soon. they might ship if you sweet talk them though. good luck.

what's up? i'm in spokane....

hey, i got the two stubs and their bolts. the junkyard charged me $5. want to send me $10 and i can mail them to you? priority should get there by saturday if i mail them tomorrow.

the inside of my socket (snap-on) was beveled a little, reducing grip ability just inside the opening. I ground the socket down about 1-2mm so it's got a nice aggressive right angle and can seat all the way down on the head of the bolt. storm, PM me your address; i'm going to the junkyard today or tomorrow specifically to pull some of the metal gaskets off of a differential's uh, "axle stub side plate-thingys" (sorry if that's too technical ) and i will try and harvest an axle stub bolt or two for you.

couldn't you just overfill it a little bit?

cool.. it's about time someone tried that. for your canvas top, get some waterproofing treatment. one good type is Nikwax' Tent Proof.

also, your sensors probably do need work. if your car has been running with no turbo, then it has probably been running rich, and getting the sensors dirty. it almost certainly needs an oxygen sensor, and the EGR valve is probably full of dirt. these are not important to worry about now. another important consideration in deciding how to fix your car is the exhaust. if you put a turbo back on it, then you have all the exhaust parts you need. if you change to a carburetor or other fuel injection, then you will need to put a Y-pipe in place of the front exhaust pipe. I believe this would be prohibitively expensive to ship to you from the U.S. let us know if you can get parts locally.

hi Hugo.... so the turbo is gone, and you have connected the bottom piece of exhaust (from in front of the engine) to the upper one (which goes under and behind the car)? the easiest way to fix the car would be to get you a turbocharger. i don't have one but someone here might have one that could be affordably sold and shipped to Peru. If you want to put a carburetor in it, that might be more practical for rural use of the car, but your engine's cylinder heads are designed to accept a turbo intake manifold. A turbo intake manifold feeds all 4 cylinders separately, while a carbureted intake manifold lumps each side's two cylinders together and has a smaller opening. so you would have to change your car's cylinder heads. if you want to run fuel injection without a turbo, you would need larger pistons in the engine you have now, to compensate for the compression power that the turbo normally supplies. you car probably has 50% or less of it's proper horsepower. How easy is it for you to get subaru parts? if you can get pistons from any fuel injected EA82 (with no turbo) then your car will have its proper power. I think that since you have a limited budget (you're in good company here because many of us have limited budgets!) your best bet is to find some used subaru parts. what you can find may determine how you end up fixing your car. let us know if you can get any other parts. some of us have shipped used parts all over the world, and if you can't find what you need, someone will help you get the parts.

i'd advise you to look in the Retrofitting forum and read about the 2.2 swaps occurring. I'm doing one myself and there is NO single step or procedure which is prohibitively difficult. the cost will depend on what kind of deal you can get on a donor engine/electrics. the whole thing is sort of tedious but if you think it makes sense, then you can probably handle it.

hi, welcome. first, does your car have the turbocharger on it, or is the turbocharger missing? or is the turbocharger damaged? please tell us if the exhaust on the underside of the engine wraps around the front of the engine, or if it is shaped like the letter Y, with none in the front. if someone took off the turbo and put on a non-turbo exhaust, then the car would have weak power. how does it drive?

Beefaru (?) has a pretty nice setup in his wagon. It has an RX transmission with 4.11 gears and a super low 5th gear from a forester (he said 3000RPMs at 70mph?) as well as the AWD center section from a legacy trans in place of the differential lock. and he fixed up the differential lock solenoid, using a button, to switch between high and low. the more i think about it, the more that sounds perfect...

I'd get new ball joints too, but i've seen generic boots in the HELP! racks at the auto parts store. don't forget to put some grease in there when changine the boot too.

it's a very small gain. i did it because i hate the clutch fan for being a pain to remove when necessary. off roaders do it because they can rig a switch setup to turn off their fans in water. horsepower/gas mileage is the least important reason to do it (let's say that it would take a while for it to pay for the cost of the electric fan) but you still get bragging rights

wait, you've got the right spots circled, and Ken's right about only needing to grind on one side (the right side in the pic) but I wonder if you mean grinding on the stub holes on the side? that's what came to mind first, and you actually need only to grind a little off of two spots on the inside of the main opening. like ken said, if you start inserting the chunk, you will see where it rubs. i didn't want you to ruin the diff case

wow. it'll be interesting to see what kind of $ it sells for. it's funny, i have no use for it but can't help but want it. i need help!

looks sharp! you should give that kid some USMB business.