baccaruda

you don't have to (and shouldn't) pop out the tie rod or ball joint. you can unbolt the control arm at the crossmember, unbolt the sway bar, and loosen the strut tower nuts in the engine bay. that will give you enough slack to get the axle off the stub without risking damage to the threads or boots on the tie rods or ball joints. look in the USRM for the axle tutorial, written by Ed.

driving on a high-traction surface (pavement) is horrible for welded diffs. the wheels need to each turn at different speeds when you turn, or even so much as steer a few degrees away from straight. the rear axles can be disassembled on the car without removing the wheel (i think). the halfshaft comes out quickly and easily. that way your welded diff will be sending eqal power to both axle stubs but with only one axle driving a wheel, you can see that the wheels can then turn at whatever speeds they need. i've never pulled a halfshaft myself (that's how much of a hardcore offroader *I* am!) but that's the way those who are do it.

do we need to solicit donations? I don't see anything set up for that (yet)... i'm good to donate $20...

blargh that looks familiar. i could not believe the amount i pulled out of my parts car. I took heart in knowing that i'll never run out of scrap wire now!

here's one someone posted a while back... well, i was going to post a poor gen 1 or 2 sube that someone had pumped fulla lead, but i can't find the picture. i guess this will have to do: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/6171Picture_31.jpg

uhm, check the fusible links?

i'd suggest donating the truck to charity and rewarding yourself with a nice fat tax write-off.

hm, somehow you got ice/water thru the air intake system and into the intake manifold, and then into the intake valves and the combustion chamber?

good work. i think you can maybe switch the oil pressure sender out to get one that works with your dash, maybe an original EA82 sender. I'm going to toss my digidash and put in an analog while i've got the dash torn out (also need to change headlight switch and heater switches, and i think the heater core will get changed too, why not?) i'm making my adapter this week...

haha, you said the S-word what are you working on?

smashing, baby!

wooooahhh how are the hood and fenders on that dark green beast?

try charging the battery first.. then crank it a little. the fuel circuit might not be fully pressurized yet. don't forget to check for codes.

misc related info: EA81 front sway bar is larger on turbo models (don't have specs yet) EA82 strut rods are 18mm, RX and XT6 strut rods are 20mm

that looks like heat failure... i'd first question the source and quality of the "silicone" in the hose.... because silicone is supposed to have extremely high heat tolerance.

Flowmastered has the stuff in portland already. I got your PM John. Looks like I need to send one to MMM too...

welcome back (in one piece ) You can do the axle trick you mentioned to drive in RWD. I don't know how well that will hold up in the long run (I don't know who may be running a full time RWD car or for how long they have been). I'm also under the impression that 86 RXes didn't have locking center differentials? I do know that there have been major breakthroughs in converting to a rear E-brake. And there are suddenly a lot of people (including Yours Truly) swapping EJ22s from legacys or imprezas into their older subies. Both of those projects would erase much of the advantage the corollas have. Also, if you convert to full time RWD, you could get a 4.11 rear differential from a newer legacy or impreza and use your 3.7 LSD to make a 4.11 LSD ... but I believe that the older stub axles are outties and the newer ones are innies, so I don't want to suggest that as something simple to do... just something to look into perhaps. this would work on a RWD'ed subie as the trans would still turn the front stub axles at 3.7 but they wouldn't be connected to wheels and it wouldn't hurt your drivetrain, I think. good luck!

hey patrick, have you modified the airbox yet?

Will, they've bought into the whole marketing/image thing. You will be fighting that for the rest of your (car's) life. Just smile and nod and offer to help them learn to work on their own cars

rear glass weight - 66 Barracuda: 60 lbs!

I'm about to make the adapter for my EJ22 engine - to - EA82 transmission swap. the adapter should be made from 12mm thick aluminum to match the EA82's original bellhousing depth. from what i can tell so far, 12mm aluminum may be hard to find.. but 11mm is exactly 1/2" which is easier to find. so if i end up making a 11mm(1/2") adapter instead of 12mm, am i going to have issues with the throwout bearing clearing the pressure plate if it's 1mm closer to the pressure plate than it's "supposed" to be? i've changed a few EA82 clutches but i don't have the expertise to know this off the top of my head. thanks to whoever can help.

and boy is there. i just finished pulling everything out of my parts car yesterday. I can't wait to see how much of that wiring will end up in the "extra" pile...

don't listen to his LIES... it's more like the brat's driving HIM

?? this lists an EA82 4/4.. http://www.ozified.com/liftkits.htm